I removed my prop for cleaning and painting with cold galvinization paint. Now it is time to relaunch . I am thinking of putting teflon grease on the shaft as it was hard to remove this time. Do most of you grease the shaft and what kind of grease??
Grease the Shaft???
- Thread starter MoonSailer
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There is a zinc spay paint that is commonly used on props and has shown to be effective, but will come off of the tips in time. Perhaps this is what he is referring to. Chuck
I don't think that it will hurt the prop. I am hopeing that the zinc will prevent barnacles from growing on the prop. Bronze is degraded by losing zinc so zinc on the outside should be protective. It is called cold galvaniztion but it is really just paint that contains a lot of zinc. I have noticed that barnacles etc don't grow on my zinc anodes.
If you are referring to the mating surface between the shaft and the prop hub ..... NOTHING should be used, these should always be assembled 'dry', never 'lubricated'.
These are *friction or 'interference' joints* (the shaft is a few 1/1000ths LARGER than the prop hub inner diameter) that depend on the friction of the 'forced together' surfaces to transmit the torque between the shaft and the prop (the torque should NOT be transmitted by the 'key' or 'sets-crews', etc.). If you apply any 'lube' the mating surfaces can/may
slip' and all the torque will be transmitted to the 'key', etc. Putting such forces on a 'key or keyway' is very BAD machine practice.
If this a tapered shaft connection, then you should consider to 'lap' the prop hub TO the shaft by using 'valve grinding or lapping compound' ..... to insure or increase the ability of the 'joint' surface to transmit the torque.
Seems to work
I tried it last year. Three coats and then wet down continously with water for 30 seconds or so, as recommended on the can. Pettit now sells it for the same purpose at double the cost so it must be okay. Definitely an improvement over last year, but need more data.
Oh that is just great! I just switched out the prop and I put anti seize on it. I am going to have to buy a wet suit. Last dive was a bit too cold for me.
Ya probably OK, Hermit.. Most anti-sieze is metallic based, copper or nickel; they are conductive (check your tube for content).. but... make really sure that the prop nut and lock are tight since that taper is what transmits the torque, as was pointed out in a previous post.. The tight nut and lock will insure that the taper stays engaged ... should be clean and dry on next installation.
i reinstalled my prop today. I used some grinding compound and it made the inside of the prop shine. The wide part was a little red the last inch or so the rest was more silvery. I then washed everything with water and a rag. The clean parts were joined being very careful with the key so that the prop went completely onto the shaft. Then I tightened the large nut as tight as I could with a 10" adjustable wrench. The tightened the the thin nut and place a new cotter key. Wow hired a diver to remove the prop and reinstall it last time. He was a better diver than I. Just using a wheel puller under water would be tough. Not to mention not losing everyhting. He also did it at the dock where the visability is not great.
thanks Maine Sail!!! I will reverse the nuts before the boat is launched Monday. I should have noticed when I removed the nuts. My first prop installation.
Just curious, what do you mean the wide part was a little red the last inch?? Are you talking about the color of the metal? Reddish or pinkish discoloration on bronze can be a bad sign that the material is dezincifying... Can you take a photo of it??
There was just a small area that was reddish. I did not want to grind too much. The prop still rings like a bell which is a good sign. I am installing a galvanic isolator to prevent future corrosion . Two new zincs on the shaft should help. http://kroescorp.com/Vendors/Marinco.Electrical/Guest/Isolators.htm
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