Gray Water Shower Sump Pump

Jeff Jellick

Jeff Jellick

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Feb 16, 2012
198
Hunter 45 CC Alamitos Bay, Long Beach
I have a 2006 Hunter 45 CC,. The aft shower and sink drain into an "Atwood" sump with a float switch pump, which discharges overboard. My problem is that the pump constantly cycles on and off due to the backflow draining back into the sump. I have added an inline backflow preventer, but after so many years it too leaks. I am sure that this setup is common on a lot of other Hunter models. Question; Has anyone changed over to the "Whale Grey IC Shower Waste Pump Kit"?? I believe that the 12-volt model number is WM 8284. If not, has anyone changed the system so as to prevent the recycling? Any and all ideas welcome.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
C

Capt jgw

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Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
That new one will probably do the same thing eventually. I'd clean or replace the check valve, and only switch it on when needed.
My bilge pump used to do that too, I fixed it by relocating the outlet so the hose was only ten feet long instead of 25. Not so much water in the hose now. Don't know if you can do that but it would help.
 
All U Get

All U Get

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Oct 2, 2008
3,810
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
[QUOTE="Jeff Jellick, post: 1299210, member: 110342" My problem is that the pump constantly cycles on and off due to the backflow draining back into the sump. I have added an inline backflow preventer, but after so many years it too leaks. Any and all ideas welcome.

Thanks,
Jeff[/QUOTE]

Do you mean a vented loop? My sumps have a rocker switch to run them, only the bilge is automatic and they all have vented loops. Smaller diameter hose would reduce the amount left in the hose, but it would take longer to pump out. Have you cleaned them lately? Mine has a little filter before the pump and gets hair, etc. trapped inside.

All U Get
 
Johnb

Johnb

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Jan 22, 2008
1,459
Hunter 37-cutter Richmond CA
To be honest I got a bit of sticker shock when I saw what that kit costs. Maybe just fix the backflow preventer.

I sponge out the sump once a day if the shower has been used. This works because it is easy to access. Also keeps it sweet, and its nicer to deal with the hair trap etc while it is fresh, and keeping the float switch clean has it's own benefits.
 
Peggie Hall HeadMistress

Peggie Hall HeadMistress

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Dec 2, 1997
8,936
- - LIttle Rock
If the float switch is separate from the pump, just move it to a higher location. If it's not, surely the pump has an on/off switch and unlike a bilge pump it doesn't have remain on all the time...it can't cycle if it's not on. So why not just keep the pump turned off except when it's needed?
 
S

Slipin Away

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Jun 14, 2007
175
Hunter 45cc Florida
I added a small led light to the switch circuit to remind me to turn off switch after use. New rubber check valve lasts for a short time only
 
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Capt jgw

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Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
One charter boat I was on had a breaker in the main panel for the shower sump, and that was wired to another switch in the shower compartment that turned the pump on and off. That way you could leave the breaker on all the time and only turn on the pump when needed, from inside the shower. I don't think there was a float switch, just the manual.
 
Terry Cox

Terry Cox

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Dec 25, 2000
5,922
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Our arrangement is very similar to yours, but it does not cycle. Someone, either Hunter or the PO secured a piece of wood (about 3/4") beneath the float switch, which raised it enough to stop any cycling.
 
woodster

woodster

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Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
i rigged my shower sump with a water witch float switch inside the sump box....and a mushroom fitting to a hose at lowest point in the bottom...ran a hose to the diaphragm pump...then over board ....no backwash for me....
 
All U Get

All U Get

.
Oct 2, 2008
3,810
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
Terry Cox said:
Our arrangement is very similar to yours, but it does not cycle. Someone, either Hunter or the PO secured a piece of wood (about 3/4") beneath the float switch, which raised it enough to stop any cycling.
Click to expand
Do you still have water left in the sump because the float switch had been raised? I would think you want the float switch at the lowest point to get a minimal amount of water left after cycling.

All U Get
 
Jackdaw

Jackdaw

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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Peggie Hall HeadMistress said:
If the float switch is separate from the pump, just move it to a higher location. If it's not, surely the pump has an on/off switch and unlike a bilge pump it doesn't have remain on all the time...it can't cycle if it's not on. So why not just keep the pump turned off except when it's needed?
Click to expand
That. Swap the float for a toggle switch in the head.
 
C

Capt jgw

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Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
Unless that sump is really big it won't take much backflow at all to cycle the float switch. A toggle makes a lot more sense.
 
Terry Cox

Terry Cox

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Dec 25, 2000
5,922
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
All U Get said:
Do you still have water left in the sump because the float switch had been raised? I would think you want the float switch at the lowest point to get a minimal amount of water left after cycling.

All U Get
Click to expand
Yes, some water remains including back flow when the pump stops. Arrangement seems to work just fine whether there is one cup or three cups of water left in the sump. One important step, between cruises, before I leave the boat I empty and dry the sump. Otherwise, that soapy water (fat) will rot and stink up the boat (lesson learned).

Raising the float switch a bit seems a simpler solution. Ours never cycles when the pump shuts off. It just does its thing automatically.
 
Peggie Hall HeadMistress

Peggie Hall HeadMistress

.
Dec 2, 1997
8,936
- - LIttle Rock
Terry Cox said:
One important step, between cruises, before I leave the boat I empty and dry the sump. Otherwise, that soapy water (fat) will rot and stink up the boat (lesson learned).
Click to expand
There's an easier way: Don't flush the water out. Instead add a little--enough to cover any filter--and squirt a couple ounces of Raritan C.P. down the shower drain last thing before you leave the boat, or any time when it can stand at least overnight (it can remain in the sump forever without harm to anything). It's a bio-enzymatic cleaner that Raritan only markets as a bowl cleaner, but also happens to be the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. Not only does it destroy odor on contact, but the enzymes "eat" hair, soap scum and all the other things that make a sump go funky. That's all you need to do to keep the sump clean and sweet smelling. Also sink drains...close the seacock, put an ounce or two down the drain, fill the drain with water...again, when it can stand at least overnight, 'cuz the enzymes need time to work. Although K.O. was the "flagship" of the product line I sold to Raritan, I think C.P. may actually the best one.
 
woodster

woodster

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Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
that info just made my life even better thanks ....wohoo....this is better than 2000 flushes for the home
 
JamesG161

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,755
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
Although mine is a different model sump system, I found a "mini" back flow flow had stuck open.
The flapper check valve looks just like a small version, head Joker Valve. I couldn't find a replacement, so we just use the pump breaker to cycle it off/on when shower or sink is in use.
Our model overflows to the main bilge anyway.;)
Jim...

PS: A in kind replacement was ≈$130.
 
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