Gravity and Max Distance Between Head/Hold.T

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Frank Hand

I understand the discharge hose distance between head and holding tank should not exceed 6ft(8ft max). Was wondering if that distance can be increased by routing the discharge hose at the head directly up 3 to 4ft (to a height at least 1-1/12ft above the heeled waterline and the top of the holding tank)thru a vented loop and then running downward into the H tank? Would not this arrangement reduce the load on the head pump and or allow an extended run.? Hope Peggy and others can respond. Thankyou
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Would cause more problems than it solves

Instead of just leaving waste lying in the line to the tank, you'd have a column of waste or flush water 3-4' high between the toilet and the top of the loop to run back down into the toilet...and THAT much would be enough to overflow your toilet bowl (joker valves only prevent flooding, they don't prevent seepage). It takes an average of 4 pumpstrokes to move waste/flush water 1 foot. So you'd have to pump approx. 12 times just to clear the top of a loop 3' high...16 times to clear the top of a loop 4' high...and then keep pumping to move the waste the rest of the way to the tank. Gravity would help liquids only, but not solids and paper. Since most people stop pumping as soon as the bowl is empty, that's just asking for trouble every time you have guest aboard, even if you and your family are religious about pumping 30+ times every time you use the head.
 
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Frank Hand

Installation Diagrams Show Otherwise

Thanks for your reply Peggy which makes sense to me. However the Jabsco installation option diagrams show the the discharge hose rising from the Head's discharge elbow to what appear to be heights of 2-3ft into loops that are above the waterline/hold.t etc.?I have not yet been able to contact Jabasco customer service to determine the max rise they recommend that will avoid the seep back problems you identified.FH
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Standard for vented loop height

is 8-12" above the waterline at any angle of heel. On some boats, that can put it 2' or more above the toilet. But whether you put it 1' above the toilet or 10' above the toilet, you can't change the laws of physics: water runs downhill. The only way to prevent waste/water from running back down the hose from the top of the loop to bowl is by pumping enough times to push all of it over the top of the loop. It doesn't matter what brand the toilet is, the pump moves bowl contents the same distance with each stroke: approximately 3", which means it takes 4 pumps to move it 1' (and that's only if the toilet is working to factory specs...inefficiency due to worn seals increases the number of strokes needed). So even if you only put it 1' above the toilet, if you only pump 3x, some waste/water will be left in the line to run back downhill toward the toilet. If it's 2' above the toilet and you only pump 6 times, that much more will be left in the hose to run back downhill. The higher the loop, the longer the hose between the toilet and the top of it, and the longer the hose, the more water it can hold to run back downhill to the toilet. How quickly it floods the bowl depends upon how worn the joker valve is. But just pumping enough to push it over the top of the loop won't send anything but liquid the rest of the way to the tank. Because solids fill the hose, they won't freefall...they have to be pushed along. If you don't push 'em all the way to the tank, they sit in the hose to permeate it and the risk of clogs increases. But we both know you're NOT gonna pump your toilet 30-40 times every time you flush it. It's your boat...but if it were mine, I'd find another location for the tank that simplifies flushing the toilet and minimizes potential problems instead of causing 'em.
 
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