fred, and others. how are the grab rails attached on the 34? are there nuts? or just wood screws? i loosened two ot them but they are spinning and not coming out, i fear that there are nuts and washers on the other end. help! mike
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Wood Screws
Lightly sand the tops of the grab rails and you will typically see 3/8" teak plugs (covering the wood screws) at the ends, and each solid section of the grab rail. Cut the head off a 1-1/2" to 2" wood screw so you can grip it in the chuck of a variable speed portable drill. Slowly drill the 'screw bit' into the teak plug, which will split and lift out the plug, exposing the Head of the actual fastener within the grab rail. Back out the fasteners and rock the rail loose from the sealant bedding --it will come off easily as long as the PO didn't use 5200 as a sealant. Use Life Seal when you clean the rails up and reinstall them; use a dab of varnish in the 'holes' to seal in the new teak wood bungs. shave them off just proud of the grab rail and finish the job by hand sanding and refinishing the grab rails with your prefered finish.
Lightly sand the tops of the grab rails and you will typically see 3/8" teak plugs (covering the wood screws) at the ends, and each solid section of the grab rail. Cut the head off a 1-1/2" to 2" wood screw so you can grip it in the chuck of a variable speed portable drill. Slowly drill the 'screw bit' into the teak plug, which will split and lift out the plug, exposing the Head of the actual fastener within the grab rail. Back out the fasteners and rock the rail loose from the sealant bedding --it will come off easily as long as the PO didn't use 5200 as a sealant. Use Life Seal when you clean the rails up and reinstall them; use a dab of varnish in the 'holes' to seal in the new teak wood bungs. shave them off just proud of the grab rail and finish the job by hand sanding and refinishing the grab rails with your prefered finish.
They are machined screws !
You'll need help to do the job unless you have an extra long 3rd arm ;D. First you have to unscrew the false ceiling on port and starboard, taking down the 2 lamps with them. You can carefully pull the wires off as they are bayonet type connectors on the lamps. The one on the starboard side is about 10 feet long so you'll need to provide support as to not break it. They are about 1/8 to 3/16" thick only and bend easily. That will show you the nuts and lock-washers, which you can loosen. Now with the 3rd arm reaching topsides with a srewdriver, uncrew each one them from inside the handrail while holding the nut down below inside the boat ! Good luck
You'll need help to do the job unless you have an extra long 3rd arm ;D. First you have to unscrew the false ceiling on port and starboard, taking down the 2 lamps with them. You can carefully pull the wires off as they are bayonet type connectors on the lamps. The one on the starboard side is about 10 feet long so you'll need to provide support as to not break it. They are about 1/8 to 3/16" thick only and bend easily. That will show you the nuts and lock-washers, which you can loosen. Now with the 3rd arm reaching topsides with a srewdriver, uncrew each one them from inside the handrail while holding the nut down below inside the boat ! Good luck
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