Golf Cart Trojan Performance

[John Nantz]

This weekend it was time to visit the boat; crawl under the blue plastic tarp and check for leaks, see if there are any more mold problems, do an oil and filter change, and check the batteries. All the fun things that come along with boat ownership. Actually, this was better than the option of raking up leaves and branches from around the house.Since it has been nearly a month since the batteries were charged it was time to check the voltages. Bank #1, Battery 1: 6.23V; Batery #2: 6.22V for a total of 12.45V; Bank #2, Battery #3: 6.23V; Battery #4: 6.26V for a total of 12.49V. Not bad for a group of 6-year old batteries. Battery #4 is about a year newer than the rest. Voltages were measured with a Fluke 77 multitester, one of their more accurate models.To change the oil the engine was run until the cooling water was heated up to temperature for about 20 minutes - not long enough to really heat the oil but better than nothing. While changing the oil the inverter was turned on to further charge batteries. Still can't get the plastic bag over the oil filter trick to work.A day later, long enough for the voltages to stabilize, the boat was revisited and voltages checked again. Bank #1, Battery #1: 6.01V; Battery #2: 6.01V for a total of 12.02V (something is not right here!); Bank #2, Battery #3: 6.33V; Battery #4: 6.37V for a total of 12.70V. Check the master switches - all off. Check the electrical panel - everything off. Hmmmmm, somethings not right. Check the Bank #1 voltages again and get the same reading, and then I noticed it! The light in the engine room was on. Checked the sub-panel that was setup temporarily to bank #1 to run the motor circuits (not connected yet)and engine gauges and the switches were on - that explained the problem.So there it is, 6 year old batteries with one bank at 12.70 volts and the other would have been close had it not been for the switch being left on. Cost per bank was 139.45 including 8.5% Washington sales tax.Use: typical season is from around May to mid October, local and coastal cruising, with storage (left on boat and boat in water) in the off season, which is actually more harmful than if they were used. During the sailing season the batteries provide power for refrigeration, Autohelm, forced-air heater, and the usual host of smaller items such as the coffee bean grinde, etc.In case you can't tell, I'm very pleased with the rusults to date and I feel the move from the OEM Group 24s was a good one. Wish the switch wouldn't have been left on but that's life.

 

[Johnny G]

Finding room

John,Have heard much good about golf cart batteries. Where did you find room for them? What type of batt. box are they house in?

 

[Les Blackwell]

Thanks for the Info--going to do the same

John, Thank you very much for the up-date battery report. Just what I was looking for. Yesterday I authorized a certified marine electrician to do the following: 1) exchange the Guest for a StatPower battery charger and move it under the navigation locker, 2)Add a combiner, 3) add a regulator and 4) add Link device to measure the input and output of my batteries. Finally, we are going to put in Golf Cart series like you did. Thanks for the brand name.I elected not to put in a inverter at this time. Maybe later but we don't have much need at this time. I can use the computer through the power outlet but I'm not sure I'm going to take the computer much. I will be getting a steering device but haven't thought this through yet. Probably the Autohelm 4000ST--is that what you have?Anyway, thanks again for your report. It couldn't have come at a better time.Les

 

[John Nantz]

To Johnny G and Les

The battery boxes I used are from near Vancouver, Canada. They are resold by Dyno Batteries at 4248 23rd Ave in Seattle, WA, (206) 283-7450. Person in the front office is Kay. Model number is GC2B (Golf Cart 2 batteries). Dimensions are 15-3/4L x 11-7/8 x 12-1/8H and the wall thickenss is 1/4-inch plastic, and they come with a lid. The sides are not fluted like the typical battery boxes, instead they have a slightly thicker wall thickness. The plastic is a milk-white color. Kay said they can ship and their E-mail address is "dyno01@aol.com", she thinks. The 01 is zero one. If this doesn't work use the phone.For my installation I had to shorten the height and this was done by cutting the box with a saw - easy job.With regard to charged voltage, one thing I'd like to mention is that they were only charged for a couple hours and still obtained greater than a 70% charge. Had they been charged for several hours longer the resultant voltage a day later would have probably been a few hundredths or maybe even a tenth or two higher.All battery connections, + and -, are with 00 marine grade conductors, connectors, and heat shrink tubing (Ancor). To handle the greater loads a high amperage Blue Sea selector switch and fuse was installed in a separate compartment away from any hydrogen gas.

 

[John Nantz]

Johnny G & Les #2

Forgot a couple things:Our boat is an '88 H-35 'Legend' with the longitudional aft cabin berth. The battery compartment is under the berth in the same location as the original Group 24s. I stuck a Group 28 for a starting battery in the space furtherst aft of the engine and aft of where the prop goes through the hull. It's a 'no maintenance' battery but when it dies it'll be replaced with a regular car type starting battery as they do better for spinning the engine.Remember to increase the conductor sizes to the alternator and the engine ground and the main panel. My main panel wires are #2.My wheel autopilot is the older Autohelm 4000 (had it for 12 years) which has held up reasonably well. Replaced the cog belt once, shear pin once (reefed on the wheel without dis-engaging). The contol box has the magnetic gyro enclosed which is not nearly as nice as the newer ST models which is separate and hence does not track as nice through waves.Highly recommend and inverter. We have the Hart 1000 which is about 7 years old and use it for everything. Recommned a 1500 W unit vice 1000 W. The inverter is located in the lazarette on the bulkhead aft of the head, mounted on a 3/4-inch marine grade plywood panel. This puts the electrical stuff away from the battery gasses and keeps the electrical runs to a minimum and to avoid cable extentions to the battery selector switch.