I need to glue two pieces of teak, and am not sure what the best glue would be for the job. Can epoxy be used on teak, or is there a better product to use? Looking forward to all replys Dale
Glueing teak
- Thread starter dale17781
- Start date
- Status
WEST is best
I use WEST system epoxy but System Three is also very good. Teak has a lot of oil in the grain and that interferes with any glue. Just before putting the parts together I sand and then wipe both sides of the joint with acetone. If the joint permits I also like to use spines to keep things lined up and help the strength of the joint by adding more surface area for the glue. All the best, Robert Gainer
I use WEST system epoxy but System Three is also very good. Teak has a lot of oil in the grain and that interferes with any glue. Just before putting the parts together I sand and then wipe both sides of the joint with acetone. If the joint permits I also like to use spines to keep things lined up and help the strength of the joint by adding more surface area for the glue. All the best, Robert Gainer
Gorilla Glue
Clean the joint with acetone and follow the instructions. Gorilla Glue really works.
Clean the joint with acetone and follow the instructions. Gorilla Glue really works.
Regular old Titebond or Elmers
If you are using the end product inside, TiteBond glue of Elmers will also work. If outdoors, just about any waterproof glue will do, as will any epoxy or urethane adhesive. The whole secret to success is as others have said, clean the joint first by wiping the surfaces with acetone or laquer thinner to remove the surface oils. Teak does not have any mystical properties that prevents adhesion. Its just an oily wood. Remove the oil from the proposed glue surface and the mystery is solved.
If you are using the end product inside, TiteBond glue of Elmers will also work. If outdoors, just about any waterproof glue will do, as will any epoxy or urethane adhesive. The whole secret to success is as others have said, clean the joint first by wiping the surfaces with acetone or laquer thinner to remove the surface oils. Teak does not have any mystical properties that prevents adhesion. Its just an oily wood. Remove the oil from the proposed glue surface and the mystery is solved.
clean it with acetone or better yet
oxolic acid then gorilla glue (read dir first)and clamp the s^%$ out of it if you can this will hold up better than the teak its self no matter what the weather
oxolic acid then gorilla glue (read dir first)and clamp the s^%$ out of it if you can this will hold up better than the teak its self no matter what the weather
Gluing "Oily" Woods
Cleanliness is the most important factor in bonding success. In all cases, joining surfaces must be clean and free of grease, oil, wax, dirt, or other contaminants. Typically, I would recommend using a freshly machined surface, and wiping it with a solvent just prior to gluing. Wipe the mating surfaces with clean white cotton rags soaked with solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner, or other water free solvents. Immediately wipe dry with a clean, dry, white cotton rag to pick up oily residues. Repeat if necessary, or until wood appears "dry" or lightens in color. Apply adhesive* as soon as possible after cleaning**. * Epoxies & Polyurethanes (Gorilla Glue, 3M #5200/4200 etc work well ... ** It's important to know that the oils will eventually leach out to the surface again. For best results, adhesive should be applied to both surfaces to be glued, and allowed to sit long enough for the wood to soak up as much as it wants, so that when the pieces are assembled the wood will not absorb the glue that would otherwise fill the gap between the pieces, leading to a glue-starved joint. Scarf and butt joints are especially prone to soaking glue out of the joint, as it wicks into the end grain of the wood, (endgrain constitutes the open ends of the hollow cellulose tubes of which the wood is made). Edges of plywood are notorious for soaking up liquids.
Cleanliness is the most important factor in bonding success. In all cases, joining surfaces must be clean and free of grease, oil, wax, dirt, or other contaminants. Typically, I would recommend using a freshly machined surface, and wiping it with a solvent just prior to gluing. Wipe the mating surfaces with clean white cotton rags soaked with solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner, or other water free solvents. Immediately wipe dry with a clean, dry, white cotton rag to pick up oily residues. Repeat if necessary, or until wood appears "dry" or lightens in color. Apply adhesive* as soon as possible after cleaning**. * Epoxies & Polyurethanes (Gorilla Glue, 3M #5200/4200 etc work well ... ** It's important to know that the oils will eventually leach out to the surface again. For best results, adhesive should be applied to both surfaces to be glued, and allowed to sit long enough for the wood to soak up as much as it wants, so that when the pieces are assembled the wood will not absorb the glue that would otherwise fill the gap between the pieces, leading to a glue-starved joint. Scarf and butt joints are especially prone to soaking glue out of the joint, as it wicks into the end grain of the wood, (endgrain constitutes the open ends of the hollow cellulose tubes of which the wood is made). Edges of plywood are notorious for soaking up liquids.
- Status