Glassing in an old thru hull hole.

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I have done some searching on this topic and really haven't seen a definitive way to do this. I will be glassing in the hole this weekend and want to do it correct. I got my West epoxy, 1808 glass matting, silica filler and a small bubble roller. I plan on beveling the hole on the outside first and take a sander to the inside surface. After cleaning with acetone, I was going to glass one layer of 1808 on the inside first and let dry. I would then cut round pieces of matting gradually increasing in diameter for the outside. Starting with the small piece and lay about 3 layers and let dry. I would continue layering with increasing diameter pieces until about 1/8" from flush. I would then mix some epoxy with the filler and fill until even with the outside of the hull. Does this sound correct?. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Dec 28, 2009
397
Macgregor M25 trailer
Kito, you should put the largest piece of glass in first, then progressively smaller the smaller one last. That way when you sand it to fair you are not cutting away the larger piece weakening it.
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Fred, that seems to be the big debate.....small to large or large to small.
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
West System agrees with Fred: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repairing-machined-holes-in-fiberglass/
They've got a ton of good info on the site: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/projects/

When you go to layering the fix, what works for me is (only mix as much as you can use in the hardeners pot life of course, and) rather than paint brush the resin, use a paint tray and dip the fiberglass into the resin, place it on the target, then use a laminating roller to work out any bubbles.
Goes pretty fast this way.
 
Nov 9, 2009
69
catalina 25 wing keel rutledge tn.
Order a repair book written by Don Casey. The name of the book is Don Casey hull and deck repair. The book shows using the smaller pieces of mat first and gradually adding larger pieces.
 
Jul 25, 2007
320
-Irwin -Citation 40 Wilmington, NC
Placing the lager piece in first simply does not make sense despite what WEST says. I explain my reasoning in this video http://youtu.be/mKDEvz6jE8M
I am sure some will not agree but this is sort of like an anchoring debate everyone has an opinion. I just know in forty years I have not had a problem with the way I do it but I have seen peeling starting on the edges in the big piece first
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Now you know why I asked this question :) Starting small and attaching each edge to the existing hull seems better than attaching all pieces to just one large piece.
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Placing the lager piece in first simply does not make sense despite what WEST says. I explain my reasoning in this video http://youtu.be/mKDEvz6jE8M
I am sure some will not agree but this is sort of like an anchoring debate everyone has an opinion. I just know in forty years I have not had a problem with the way I do it but I have seen peeling starting on the edges in the big piece first
Sailvayu, thanks for the video but now I am really confused. You show layering from the inside. I was going to lay one layer of 1808 on the inside, and layer from the outside with my round pieces building up to about a 1/8" from flush and fill with thickened epoxy and fair it.
 
Jul 25, 2007
320
-Irwin -Citation 40 Wilmington, NC
Kito you got it right I did both in and out it was a really thin hull in the video so it may not look like it. build up the glass a bit proud of the hull so you know it is fully filled in and then take it back down about 1/16 or less low then fair in. Good luck and let us see some pix :)
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
I bet in the grand scheme of things, it doesn't matter if you go bigger -> smaller, or smaller -> bigger. Certainly the more important thing is to have a properly generous bevel so there is plenty of adherence surface.

I can think of reasons to go both ways.

The only definitive answer would be rigorous controls of test patches with reasonable and repeatable testing. From what I've seen, West System has put time in for such endeavors.

Then again, old salts have been doing polyester resin fiberglass repairs for nigh onto 65 years now, that hold up year after year...
 
Aug 22, 2011
1,113
MacGregor Venture V224 Cheeseland
Kito you got it right I did both in and out it was a really thin hull in the video so it may not look like it. build up the glass a bit proud of the hull so you know it is fully filled in and then take it back down about 1/16 or less low then fair in. Good luck and let us see some pix :)
We just did it. No leaks.

Somehow this subject seems harder to talk about than just doing...
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,443
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Kito;

As a former dealer who repaired thru hull holes, here is what I did depending if it is on the bottom. I would bevel the edges of the thru hull hole at a 45% angle from the inside toward the outside of the hole with the largest being on the outside. Remove any bottom paint at least two inches from the outer edges of the hole on the bottom of the hull. Sand inside 1-2 inches from the edge of the topside or inside of the hole. Clean area with acetone. Then take a piece of cardboard with two layers of glass that is a little larger than the inside of the hole of course mixed with resin and hardner. Add a little more hardner to activate it quicker and hold down over that hole so the glass will not slip. Once it starts to harden, then and only then remove you hand (wear gloves). YOu do not want the glass to sag down which is why your are holding fast. Leave it alone until completely dry. Go outside and sand that smooth. You have in essence a backing plate to work with so you can lay glass outside in the hole.

You will want to purchase a small resin roller by seacure. Cannot recall the company but begins with sea. If not, use a cheap brush. Have a small container of acetone to dip the roller in or brush. Outside, the first layer of glass should only be as big as the hole inside the hole. Resin the area and glass the first layer in and flatten out and get the air bubbles out dipping the brush in of course having been emeresed into the acetone. The next piece of glass is a little larger but you do not want to overlap the beveled areas and again flatten out and get the air bubbles out with brush or roller. After two layers, let it dry. Then sand and continue the same process until the last piece of glass is level with the hull. After drying, I use to spray a little black or gray over the outside glass repair and then sanded. If any paint was left, it showed the low areas which if too much, extra glass could be added or very little, I added a two part epoxy and sanded smooth. Then I sprayed and sanded one more time to see if the area was smooth with the hull. At that point I painted the area barrier coat.

What you have done is glassed in on a bevel edge which is much stronger vs. just straight thru edges of the hole. Also the initial sanding insured a clean prepped surface for the glass to adhere. As for the inside layer in the beginning if you want to you can sand smooth to the inside of the hull if that is what you want to do but in a sense it acts like a locking collar.

If you have any further questions, email me. I am gone Friday and Saturday to a wedding.
 

Bob J.

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Apr 14, 2009
774
Sabre 28 NH
I sealed up three thru hulls this year, started big & went with smaller diameter pieces after that. My understanding from everything I read & seen, that's the process.

Bob
 

slaume

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Feb 21, 2014
105
Cape Dory 30 C Noank
I cut my circles a bit more accurately than the ones shown in the video. Before laying them out with a compass equipped with a sharpie marker, I also used the maker to mark the center. This little center mark makes it much easier to line up all the circles in the center of the hole. You can wet out a whole stack of these things and then press them all into the hole.

I followed the West directions of largest pieces first but I can see the logic of both methods, Steve.
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
I've always done it as the Gougeon's indicate. Don Casey isn't always all that correct on some things. Been building and repairing boats since 1976

Did 7 holes on my current boat. Now I have zero openings below water.

Just got through moving a seacock on a 32 footer and sealing the old hole. Hull is 7/8 inch thick - THAT took some beveling, in AND out.

And by the way, I DO NOT use polyester resin for that kind of job-epoxy all the way
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
The larger pieces first would give much greater surface area contact for the new fiberglass.
Small to large and all you get is the edges making contact with the beveled hole.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
The most important requirement is to properly prepare the hole for the glass. I never cut circles I cut squares and turned each patch 45° from the previous one. Don't be lazy with the grinder and don't be stingy with the glass.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
The larger pieces first would give much greater surface area contact for the new fiberglass.
Small to large and all you get is the edges making contact with the beveled hole.
On the other hand, large to small, you only have one piece on the hull, and the smallers just build thickness, which is okay if you're going to fair the inside, also. And so it goes... which to do:doh:
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Well, as usual I didn't get to finish my project goals I made for the weekend. Didn't get around to plugging the hole I was hoping to do. Got a couple seacocks installed and rebedded some above waterline thru hulls though. That's when I seen the cracked cockpit drain hoses while crawling my 6'5 frame in the stern area....a killer. Anyway, lots of good advice here. I got another week to think about it. I will only be able to bevel the outside of the hole so I believe I am still leaning towards smaller to larger. I still like the idea of having each piece connected to the hull as I build up. I forgot to mention that this will be the area where my new depth tranducer will most likely be. I just need to make sure of getting all air bubbles out...no matter which method I use.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,443
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Kito,

When I first started working on sailboats long before becoming a dealer, an old sailor who worked on them said when the boat is in the water, the pressure of water is pushing against the hull. Therefore, he said to bevel at an angle from the inside toward the hull or outside at a 45% angle. What he said made sense. When you have a large piece of glass trying to go thru a small hole due to pressure, it will not happen. I thought long and hard about that statement.