Getting the flange off the shaft
- Thread starter Jim Seamans
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Post #1
I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it. Spread the flanges apart and put something in between them. I used a stack of pennies taped together. Put the 4 bolts in and tighten snugly. Then go around the flange tightening the bolts evenly, a bit at a time so you don't warp the flange. Tap lightly with a hammer every once in a while, the vibrations help the WD40 penetrate. When the flanges meet open it back up and add a few pennies to the stack. Repeat the process. The advantage to the pennies (or nickles or washers, etc.) is the adjustability of the height of the stack. It starts out small enough to fit using the existing bolts and grows as the shaft moves out. This can be tedious but it is certainly better than wailing on your flange with a hammer (if you even have room to swing a hammer). Tom s/v Orion's Child
I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it. Spread the flanges apart and put something in between them. I used a stack of pennies taped together. Put the 4 bolts in and tighten snugly. Then go around the flange tightening the bolts evenly, a bit at a time so you don't warp the flange. Tap lightly with a hammer every once in a while, the vibrations help the WD40 penetrate. When the flanges meet open it back up and add a few pennies to the stack. Repeat the process. The advantage to the pennies (or nickles or washers, etc.) is the adjustability of the height of the stack. It starts out small enough to fit using the existing bolts and grows as the shaft moves out. This can be tedious but it is certainly better than wailing on your flange with a hammer (if you even have room to swing a hammer). Tom s/v Orion's Child
Post #1
I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it. Spread the flanges apart and put something in between them. I used a stack of pennies taped together. Put the 4 bolts in and tighten snugly. Then go around the flange tightening the bolts evenly, a bit at a time so you don't warp the flange. Tap lightly with a hammer every once in a while, the vibrations help the WD40 penetrate. When the flanges meet open it back up and add a few pennies to the stack. Repeat the process. The advantage to the pennies (or nickles or washers, etc.) is the adjustability of the height of the stack. It starts out small enough to fit using the existing bolts and grows as the shaft moves out. This can be tedious but it is certainly better than wailing on your flange with a hammer (if you even have room to swing a hammer). Tom s/v Orion's Child
I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it. Spread the flanges apart and put something in between them. I used a stack of pennies taped together. Put the 4 bolts in and tighten snugly. Then go around the flange tightening the bolts evenly, a bit at a time so you don't warp the flange. Tap lightly with a hammer every once in a while, the vibrations help the WD40 penetrate. When the flanges meet open it back up and add a few pennies to the stack. Repeat the process. The advantage to the pennies (or nickles or washers, etc.) is the adjustability of the height of the stack. It starts out small enough to fit using the existing bolts and grows as the shaft moves out. This can be tedious but it is certainly better than wailing on your flange with a hammer (if you even have room to swing a hammer). Tom s/v Orion's Child
Don't use WD40 it's useless....
"I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it." No please don't use WD40 or "something like it" or you'll never get it off. WD40 is the biggest scam of a penetrating oil in existence. IT DOES NOT PENETRATE! If you want a true penetrating oil use PB Blaster, Thrust or Aero-Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ Here's a direct quote from a guy that read one of my articles and took my advice about PB Blaster as opposed to WD40: "I knew where the cap and the locking nut were, I just couldn't budge them. Went out and bought PB Blaster. Ten minutes after spraying it broke loose. PBB rocks!" WARNING. WARNING, WARNING!!! Be very careful NOT to get PB Blaster near ANY engine or transmission seals. True penetrating oils will EAT engine seals causing catastrophic failure of that seal. The most common seal DIYers destroy is the transmission output shaft seal. Be very, very careful using PB Blaster on your engines coupling bolts and DO NOT use the spray feature when working that close to seals. If you need to use a penetrating oil on coupling bolts fill the PB Blaster cap with the penetrating oil and then use a Q-Tip to dab PB Blaster on the bolts being very careful not to drip ANY on or near the transmission output shaft seal.
"I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it." No please don't use WD40 or "something like it" or you'll never get it off. WD40 is the biggest scam of a penetrating oil in existence. IT DOES NOT PENETRATE! If you want a true penetrating oil use PB Blaster, Thrust or Aero-Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ Here's a direct quote from a guy that read one of my articles and took my advice about PB Blaster as opposed to WD40: "I knew where the cap and the locking nut were, I just couldn't budge them. Went out and bought PB Blaster. Ten minutes after spraying it broke loose. PBB rocks!" WARNING. WARNING, WARNING!!! Be very careful NOT to get PB Blaster near ANY engine or transmission seals. True penetrating oils will EAT engine seals causing catastrophic failure of that seal. The most common seal DIYers destroy is the transmission output shaft seal. Be very, very careful using PB Blaster on your engines coupling bolts and DO NOT use the spray feature when working that close to seals. If you need to use a penetrating oil on coupling bolts fill the PB Blaster cap with the penetrating oil and then use a Q-Tip to dab PB Blaster on the bolts being very careful not to drip ANY on or near the transmission output shaft seal.
Don't use WD40 it's useless....
"I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it." No please don't use WD40 or "something like it" or you'll never get it off. WD40 is the biggest scam of a penetrating oil in existence. IT DOES NOT PENETRATE! If you want a true penetrating oil use PB Blaster, Thrust or Aero-Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ Here's a direct quote from a guy that read one of my articles and took my advice about PB Blaster as opposed to WD40: "I knew where the cap and the locking nut were, I just couldn't budge them. Went out and bought PB Blaster. Ten minutes after spraying it broke loose. PBB rocks!" WARNING. WARNING, WARNING!!! Be very careful NOT to get PB Blaster near ANY engine or transmission seals. True penetrating oils will EAT engine seals causing catastrophic failure of that seal. The most common seal DIYers destroy is the transmission output shaft seal. Be very, very careful using PB Blaster on your engines coupling bolts and DO NOT use the spray feature when working that close to seals. If you need to use a penetrating oil on coupling bolts fill the PB Blaster cap with the penetrating oil and then use a Q-Tip to dab PB Blaster on the bolts being very careful not to drip ANY on or near the transmission output shaft seal.
"I know from experience that this works. Soak everything with WD40 or something like it." No please don't use WD40 or "something like it" or you'll never get it off. WD40 is the biggest scam of a penetrating oil in existence. IT DOES NOT PENETRATE! If you want a true penetrating oil use PB Blaster, Thrust or Aero-Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ Here's a direct quote from a guy that read one of my articles and took my advice about PB Blaster as opposed to WD40: "I knew where the cap and the locking nut were, I just couldn't budge them. Went out and bought PB Blaster. Ten minutes after spraying it broke loose. PBB rocks!" WARNING. WARNING, WARNING!!! Be very careful NOT to get PB Blaster near ANY engine or transmission seals. True penetrating oils will EAT engine seals causing catastrophic failure of that seal. The most common seal DIYers destroy is the transmission output shaft seal. Be very, very careful using PB Blaster on your engines coupling bolts and DO NOT use the spray feature when working that close to seals. If you need to use a penetrating oil on coupling bolts fill the PB Blaster cap with the penetrating oil and then use a Q-Tip to dab PB Blaster on the bolts being very careful not to drip ANY on or near the transmission output shaft seal.
Heading to the boat tomorrow 12/29
Will be trying again. I've been using PB for several attempts soaking it well. I've made several different fitting to be used in between the two flanges. I have several different lengths of bolts/nuts. Will let you know how comes out this weekend. Jim S/V Java
Will be trying again. I've been using PB for several attempts soaking it well. I've made several different fitting to be used in between the two flanges. I have several different lengths of bolts/nuts. Will let you know how comes out this weekend. Jim S/V Java
Heading to the boat tomorrow 12/29
Will be trying again. I've been using PB for several attempts soaking it well. I've made several different fitting to be used in between the two flanges. I have several different lengths of bolts/nuts. Will let you know how comes out this weekend. Jim S/V Java
Will be trying again. I've been using PB for several attempts soaking it well. I've made several different fitting to be used in between the two flanges. I have several different lengths of bolts/nuts. Will let you know how comes out this weekend. Jim S/V Java
Flange is OFF
It only took two and half hours and the giving of BLOOD. I realized after the tearing the back of my hand when the wrench slipped that NOTHING comes off or goes back together without BLOOD. So once the sacrifice was made things began to work. I was going to take pictures but the battery in my camera decided to die. I used four bolts that attached to the flange at the transmission. These went through the shaft flange which had the nuts. These nuts tighten with socket in between the shaft and transmission hub to act as a press. I was only able to turn the nut one revolution for each bolt. I used HEAT, I used a HAMMER, I used PB. I was afraid somewhere in here that the flange on the transmission was going to break, but didn't. Finally things began to move. I will post pictures of the shaft and flange once the battery recovers. Thanks to everyone who gave advice. Happy New Year. I'm going to get drunk and watch the football game. Jim S/V Java
It only took two and half hours and the giving of BLOOD. I realized after the tearing the back of my hand when the wrench slipped that NOTHING comes off or goes back together without BLOOD. So once the sacrifice was made things began to work. I was going to take pictures but the battery in my camera decided to die. I used four bolts that attached to the flange at the transmission. These went through the shaft flange which had the nuts. These nuts tighten with socket in between the shaft and transmission hub to act as a press. I was only able to turn the nut one revolution for each bolt. I used HEAT, I used a HAMMER, I used PB. I was afraid somewhere in here that the flange on the transmission was going to break, but didn't. Finally things began to move. I will post pictures of the shaft and flange once the battery recovers. Thanks to everyone who gave advice. Happy New Year. I'm going to get drunk and watch the football game. Jim S/V Java
Flange is OFF
It only took two and half hours and the giving of BLOOD. I realized after the tearing the back of my hand when the wrench slipped that NOTHING comes off or goes back together without BLOOD. So once the sacrifice was made things began to work. I was going to take pictures but the battery in my camera decided to die. I used four bolts that attached to the flange at the transmission. These went through the shaft flange which had the nuts. These nuts tighten with socket in between the shaft and transmission hub to act as a press. I was only able to turn the nut one revolution for each bolt. I used HEAT, I used a HAMMER, I used PB. I was afraid somewhere in here that the flange on the transmission was going to break, but didn't. Finally things began to move. I will post pictures of the shaft and flange once the battery recovers. Thanks to everyone who gave advice. Happy New Year. I'm going to get drunk and watch the football game. Jim S/V Java
It only took two and half hours and the giving of BLOOD. I realized after the tearing the back of my hand when the wrench slipped that NOTHING comes off or goes back together without BLOOD. So once the sacrifice was made things began to work. I was going to take pictures but the battery in my camera decided to die. I used four bolts that attached to the flange at the transmission. These went through the shaft flange which had the nuts. These nuts tighten with socket in between the shaft and transmission hub to act as a press. I was only able to turn the nut one revolution for each bolt. I used HEAT, I used a HAMMER, I used PB. I was afraid somewhere in here that the flange on the transmission was going to break, but didn't. Finally things began to move. I will post pictures of the shaft and flange once the battery recovers. Thanks to everyone who gave advice. Happy New Year. I'm going to get drunk and watch the football game. Jim S/V Java
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