Getting the flange off the shaft

[Jim Seamans]

Went down to the boat today to remove the flange from the shaft so I get the drippless shaft seal on. WHAT A BITCH!!!It's still on! I've tried HEAT - won't move. Placed an larger piece of pipe in between the two flanges and hit the end of the shaft to try and make it move - IT DIDN'TTried placing four bolts with a small spacer to draw the flanges together while pressing the shaft out. Couldn't find a piece to fit in the middle - it was either to short or to long.So the flange is still ON.I was going to remove the shaft log but I think they put it in with 3M5200, so much for that.Another day is planned with different lengths of pipe and bolts.I WILL NOT BE DEFEATED.....JimS/V Java

 

[Rick D]

Try A Socket, Jim....

Get some long bolts from the hardware, and put a socket in between (obviously one smaller than the shaft). Hit the coupling with liquid wrench or PB Blaster overnight. Just work the nuts little by little (you want fine threads). It will come off. I've taken several off this way. Good luck... Rick D.

 

[Paul (Affinity C320)]

Shaft Hammer

I tried all that two years ago. I finally paid someone who knows what they are doing. They used a "shaft hammer" ????? Bolt the two flange halves back together, pull the prop, screw this hammer onto the shaft (where the prop was). It has a slidding pipe on it that you slam back and forth. Later I read where this can be fatal to the tranny. So far so good. Probably need someon inside the boat to tell you when to stop hammering.Another approach.1. Unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission coupling. 2. Remove the shaft coupling from the shaft (on most installations the coupling is fixed to the shaft by two set screws that are wired together). Helpful hint: Removing the shaft from the shaft coupling may be difficult. The drawing below shows the use of a spacer as a press between the propeller shaft and the transmission coupling. A. Insert a spacer (with a diameter smaller than the shaft) between the shaft and transmission coupling.B. Bolt the transmission coupling and shaft coupling back together with the spacer fit between (note: this may require longer bolts). The spacer will act as a press to drive the shaft from the shaft coupling as the bolts are tightened.

 

[Pete]

A Roll of Quarters

Will work or so I am told but like Paul I needed to get the yard to come down with the shaft hammer/puller. The yard mechanic told me that they are a press fit on ? not sure about that but I needed the shaft hammer to take it off AND to put it on. All in all what I spent hours unsuccessfully doing they yard did in three minutes! It is all about having the correct tools ! May I suggest that you also replace the cutlass bearing while you are doing the shaft seal, cost is less then $75 dollars for part and when you are done you will have a "maintenance" free (well almost) system for 7 to 10 years !! Good Luck the cutlass bearing is either going to be a easy job or another one like the shaft, but it will be worth it . You know it is NEVER easy !

 

[ed]

Ricks got it

Put a socket on the shaft and put the bolts in. snug it up tight! Spray it with pb blaster, and let it soak over night. Tighten the bolts again. If that won't get it, Heat it with the pressure still on. Try to heat the entire coupling all the way around. Then tap with a hammer. If that wont work go to radio shack and get a can of the cold spray they use for testing componets. It freezes when sprayed. Freeze the shaft but not the cupling. It will come off. after all that, put on a new coupling cause you probably ruined the one on there!good luck.

 

[Ross]

Without the proper tools we are no better off than

the people of the stone age. You can buy a good gear puller for less than 100 dollars. Or you can pay the yard mechanic 150 for using his. The choice is yours.

 

[Rick D]

Ed's Good Point....

....I forgot that on a particularly stubborn one, I put dry ice on the shaft and heated the flange before it let go. Rick D.PS: Put some anti-seize on it before you put it back together.

 

[Alan]

Rick and Paul are....

...right. Use Rick's method to remove the shaft. Paul is correct that hammering the end of the shaft CAN destroy the transmission. There is just no need for hammering. Using the bolts to 'press' the shaft out (with a little dry ice if you like) is a tried and true method. To reinstall, crocus cloth the shaft and coupling. Then thoroughly clean both and apply a good quality copper paste. They will slide together with just your fingers. If they ever need to be separated again it will come apart very easily.

 

[Allan]

Impact Wrench

If you have access to compressed air like I did in the yard, I ended up using an impact wrench. Its the tool to remove lugnuts from wheels. The hammering action is rotary so it won't hurt the transmission bearings. I used longer bolts and put a socket in between the flanges. Just go around and around the four bolts a little at a time and it will eventually press off. You may have to use a universal and an extension to get on the socket if the angle is bad. Hold the nut with a box wrench. Flood the coupling with penetrant. The real problem is those dimples that are created by the two set screws. They cause the shaft to "pooch" up into the holes and then they don't want to allow the coupling to slide off.

 

[Landsend]

You just need the right bits and pieces...

and it will come off.

 

[RichH]

Make sure that there isnt a shaft lock nut .....

If there is one it would be on the end of the shaft and waaaaay up inside of the ID of the flange hub.

 

[frank balcer]

Some.......

Some machine shops will stack two set screws. If the coupling has a thick enough wall, some folks will install two sets screws. Take the set screw all the way out and then reach back in the threaded hole with the allen wrench and make sure it goes the distance to the shaft. When i worked in a marine machine shop some of our customers preferred two short set screws over the keyway and a single set screw 90 to 120 degrees away from the first. Good luck! Frank

 

[Jim Seamans]

Most of these I've tried

I have a pulley puller but can't get it into place - not enough room. Stopped by the hardware store and picked up some 3/4"outside diameter pipe to create a piece that will fit between the flanges. I'll try four bolts and draw the flanges together. If that doesn't work I'll try the shaft hammer.Got the cutlass bearing from Hunter last month - $50. I was planning on replacing while doing this.Hopefully I'll have this done by New Years.Thanks Everyone.Happy Holidays.JimS/V Java

 

[frank balcer]

Time.....

Jim, hauled my 30 Pearson last summer for a shaft change and it took me and a friend almost 4 hours to get the coupling off. We used bolts between the coupling halves and a socket for a spacer. When we got it seperated I miked the shaft and coupling and found that there was .0015 interference. They will come off! Just takes some time and Ibuprofen!! Good Luck once again. Frank

 

[Ross]

If all other efforts fail. Mark the location of

engine mounts and then unbolt the engine from the stringers and lift it clear of the shaft. Pull the shaft into the boat and take it to someone with a hydralic press. It went on, it will come off.

 

[ClownPilot]

Reread what Frank said ... in Reply #12

the reason I say this is I notice the shaft has a key and and appears to be a 'straight shaft'. For that reason quite often there is a setscrew installed directly over the key. Sometime one setscrew to lock the hub to the shaft key and then another setscrew goes into the same screw hole to lock the first one in place. This is particularly true if the hub/flange is not a tapered model. If it were tapered, then after removing the shaft nut, all it would need is to be shocked off its taper with a splitter punch. A pickle-fork shaped tool used to separate ball joints and tie-rods on automobile front-ends.

 

[sailaway78]

Stuck Flange

Couple years ago on the S2 I had a coupler that refused all reasonable efforts to get it off. Finally took a Mikata cut off tool, and cut that puppy off. This is pretty simple to do, just make a cut along the keyway. Be sure to do it over the key way so you don't damage the shaft. The down side to this is you have to buy a new coupler.

 

[Maine Sail]

Jim

Even if you get it off you will be breaking a layer of rust free and the coupling should be faced to the shaft if even possible. I've removed old couplings a number of times and never once had one go back on after the trip to the machine shop. These tolerances are very tight and the thin layer of rust is enough to make the facing out by quite a bit.Also be very, very careful with any penetrating oils near the transmission output seal. If you spray PB Blaster anywhere near that seal, and it gets on it, plan on pulling the transmision and replacing that seal! I vote to slice it with an angle grinder with cut off wheel disc and replace the coupling and have it faced by a reputable machine shop.. Also be very careful banging on your transmission output shaft as you can very easily damage the bearings whacking the shaft with a hammer!! You can also break the ears of the transmission output coupling off if you over tighten the bolts with a piece of pipe in between. They are cast iron and won't give you any warning until they snap!!

 

[Ross]

I haven't seen any reference made to a drive saver

but that will compensate for the need to machine the face of the coupling and will take the strain off the transmission bearings and seals. For all that is needed for this change I still think that pulling the shaft out of the boat is not excessive.

 

[chuckwayne]

Look for a nut!

Hey, Jim,on our 356 there is a nut on the end of the shaft-buried inside the flange! Even our Hunter dealer didn't know about it-wasted hours trying to get it off before looking with an inspection mirror.We added a flex coupling-from PYI-adds 1 5/8 inches to the shaft length and crowded things a little, but no more cutless wear and much smoother operation under power. well worth it!