Why do you open the gate?
Geoffrey: Why do you keep opening the gate? You should be able to reef with the gate closed.
Geoffrey: Why do you keep opening the gate? You should be able to reef with the gate closed.
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Matt Welland
Keep the main in its slot with a bungy cord!
There are these little bungy cords consisting of a loop with a ball at one end. I pull the cord around the mast and pop it over the ball and its on or off in seconds. My boat (currently for sale *sniff*) can be seen at http://mainland.essentialgoods.com/matt/boat
There are these little bungy cords consisting of a loop with a ball at one end. I pull the cord around the mast and pop it over the ball and its on or off in seconds. My boat (currently for sale *sniff*) can be seen at http://mainland.essentialgoods.com/matt/boat
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Howardf Reichbach
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Larry Beavers
Reefing time
Well, I would reef the main after I have furled the jib and there is still weather helm. When the crew starts to feel uncomfortable at 15 degree heel is another indicator to reef. There is no shame in reefing. Better to have control then to go for the eeehaaa! I like to feel the wind in my face and 20 degrees of heel as much as the next sailor but safety has to come first. Besides, when my wife is crewing, the first mate has a lot of influence over the skipper's decisions. She prefers a nice easy sail.
Well, I would reef the main after I have furled the jib and there is still weather helm. When the crew starts to feel uncomfortable at 15 degree heel is another indicator to reef. There is no shame in reefing. Better to have control then to go for the eeehaaa! I like to feel the wind in my face and 20 degrees of heel as much as the next sailor but safety has to come first. Besides, when my wife is crewing, the first mate has a lot of influence over the skipper's decisions. She prefers a nice easy sail.
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Peter Bowers
222 reefing system
Had the same problem with my 222. Found a diagram on one of the Learn to sail websites, but the rigging is very simple. Attach a line on port side of boom at back(where the boom hangs on the backstay) up through the main sail, down to the block at the back of the boom and forward through fairleads to cleat near the mast. Mainsail reefs very nicely and my crew(wife) is much happpier with the flatter sailing.
Had the same problem with my 222. Found a diagram on one of the Learn to sail websites, but the rigging is very simple. Attach a line on port side of boom at back(where the boom hangs on the backstay) up through the main sail, down to the block at the back of the boom and forward through fairleads to cleat near the mast. Mainsail reefs very nicely and my crew(wife) is much happpier with the flatter sailing.
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Mike Putegnat
Reef at 22kts steady
I start paying close attention to gusts when steady winds are at 20 kts...but don't usually reef the main until 22 to 24 kts.
I start paying close attention to gusts when steady winds are at 20 kts...but don't usually reef the main until 22 to 24 kts.
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Carol
A good captain
I agree with the idea, if you think about reefing then you should. Obviously it's easier to reef at dock rather than on the water. There have been times when I have only had the jib flying and havn't lost speed.(we all like to go fast) With winds of 15 knots you will find a reef on my boat. I have more control and less healing, that enables all aboard to enjoy the ride....NO screaming! Sailor's have to be smart, a good captain never puts the boat, the crew or themselves in harms way! Smooth sailing
I agree with the idea, if you think about reefing then you should. Obviously it's easier to reef at dock rather than on the water. There have been times when I have only had the jib flying and havn't lost speed.(we all like to go fast) With winds of 15 knots you will find a reef on my boat. I have more control and less healing, that enables all aboard to enjoy the ride....NO screaming! Sailor's have to be smart, a good captain never puts the boat, the crew or themselves in harms way! Smooth sailing
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Scott
its easier to let out a reef than take one in.
As soon as I get out to my moored Mariner first thing I do (after pumping the bilge) is decide on a jib and whether to reef the main or not. If the air is light I go with the genoa and a full main. If between 10-15 I might go with the working jib. When there are whitecaps on the bay I rig the working jib and set the main with a full reef (slab), with a half reef set up in case I want more sail later. I generally sail alone, and I find it much easier to increase the sail area (let our a reef or change to the genoa) than to take in a reef under increasingly windy conditions. I am often suprised when other sailors douse their sails and motor upwind in a heavy wind. Sometimes I wonder if they don't know how to reduce their sail area. Yesterday I fought a moderate wind and a heavy tide to get back into the harbor. I was one of two sailboats out of ten or so that did not go in under power. Most of the boats that powered in were rigged for racing and had adequate crews aboard. If things get real hairy I will drop the jib and sail under reefed main only. This works real well and the boat is very fast without the excessive heeling. I am looking for used storm sails (smaller and heavier fabric) so that I have the option of rigging for heavy winds without worrying about ripping my "working" sails. I just got my jib repaired for $100. Thats a lot of beer. Cheers!
As soon as I get out to my moored Mariner first thing I do (after pumping the bilge) is decide on a jib and whether to reef the main or not. If the air is light I go with the genoa and a full main. If between 10-15 I might go with the working jib. When there are whitecaps on the bay I rig the working jib and set the main with a full reef (slab), with a half reef set up in case I want more sail later. I generally sail alone, and I find it much easier to increase the sail area (let our a reef or change to the genoa) than to take in a reef under increasingly windy conditions. I am often suprised when other sailors douse their sails and motor upwind in a heavy wind. Sometimes I wonder if they don't know how to reduce their sail area. Yesterday I fought a moderate wind and a heavy tide to get back into the harbor. I was one of two sailboats out of ten or so that did not go in under power. Most of the boats that powered in were rigged for racing and had adequate crews aboard. If things get real hairy I will drop the jib and sail under reefed main only. This works real well and the boat is very fast without the excessive heeling. I am looking for used storm sails (smaller and heavier fabric) so that I have the option of rigging for heavy winds without worrying about ripping my "working" sails. I just got my jib repaired for $100. Thats a lot of beer. Cheers!
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Carol
storm jibs
Scott, I know someone at my harbor who has 2 storm jibs he would like to sell. They are in very good shape. I probably will see him over the fourth. I will let him know you're looking and that he can find you here. Smooth sailing!
Scott, I know someone at my harbor who has 2 storm jibs he would like to sell. They are in very good shape. I probably will see him over the fourth. I will let him know you're looking and that he can find you here. Smooth sailing!
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Jean Gosse
I picked up an idea in Practical Boatowner, the British sailing magazine. You deadend the reef line on the boom (we chose starboard) by installing a padeye. The line goes up through the reef cringle (actually ours passes through a grommet in the sail first so the reefed sail lies more smoothly) Then back to a block established 6" or so behind the farthest back the reefed sail will come. On our boom my husband secured a lenght of pvc pipe. The reef line goes forward through this pipe to a block on a hook. This is used as a Cunningham line to smooth out the luff of the mainsail until we need to reef. Then the hook is moved to the reef cringle. Haul the line as you release the halyard. The clew tightens, then the tack. Secure the reef line, tighten the halyard, and you are done. The bunt of the sail just hangs loose. You can tie reef points if you wish. This could easily be moved to the second reef although we have never used more than the first one. The MacGregor 26 sails quite nicely with reefed main and full genoa, among other combinations.
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Susana
heel angle and weather helm
I usually have a wind limit, if I take a reef too soon the boat stalls. So I start reefing the jib and when weather helm and heeling angle start giving me a real fight, I take the first reef. The boat will sail well, and it´s no longer a fight!
I usually have a wind limit, if I take a reef too soon the boat stalls. So I start reefing the jib and when weather helm and heeling angle start giving me a real fight, I take the first reef. The boat will sail well, and it´s no longer a fight!
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Jake
Reef Early, Reef Deep
When I sense that gusts which cause me to let out the mainsheet temporarily are becoming more frequent, I go forward and reef down a good bit (I have roller furling, so I can't say "first reef"). Hopefully this leaves me a bit underwhelmed by the conditions with some margin if they deteriorate. Also, when the waves are starting to toss me around a bit, I will shorten sail even if healing angles are still acceptable. I don't a combination of a gust and a steep wave at the same time to put me on my side.
When I sense that gusts which cause me to let out the mainsheet temporarily are becoming more frequent, I go forward and reef down a good bit (I have roller furling, so I can't say "first reef"). Hopefully this leaves me a bit underwhelmed by the conditions with some margin if they deteriorate. Also, when the waves are starting to toss me around a bit, I will shorten sail even if healing angles are still acceptable. I don't a combination of a gust and a steep wave at the same time to put me on my side.
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Jake
Cheap fix for sail slugs
Find a wooden dowel about the size of your luff groove. Cut it about 1" long. drill a hole through the middle of it. Insert a screw or bolt and put a wingnut on the other end. Store this plug in the lower end of the mast below the slug gate. After your sail is up, move the plug to just above your gate. Slugs stay in when lower sail.
Find a wooden dowel about the size of your luff groove. Cut it about 1" long. drill a hole through the middle of it. Insert a screw or bolt and put a wingnut on the other end. Store this plug in the lower end of the mast below the slug gate. After your sail is up, move the plug to just above your gate. Slugs stay in when lower sail.
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Jake
Steven - see any book on sailing for reefing instr
I recommend the "Annapolis Book of Seamanship" or the "ASA Sailing Fundamentals". Reefing will add pleasure and safety to your sailing. Sometimes you will have to reef to remain in controls (and don't trust that motor to always work when you need it). Sometimes reefing will allow you to stay out and have fun when otherwise you would have to head in.
I recommend the "Annapolis Book of Seamanship" or the "ASA Sailing Fundamentals". Reefing will add pleasure and safety to your sailing. Sometimes you will have to reef to remain in controls (and don't trust that motor to always work when you need it). Sometimes reefing will allow you to stay out and have fun when otherwise you would have to head in.
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Bob Holloway
Shortening Sail - When I Think About Reefing
I sail a 1971 Bristol Caravel out of Coyote Pt. on San Francisco Bay and I can definitely say that the way I tell whether or not to reef the mainsail is the degree of heel. In the winter we don't get much wind to speak of, but in the late spring and during the summer it makes up for it in spades! Almost anytime I go out during these months the "red flag" is flying, signaling small craft warnings. Since I know that if I waited for a no-flag condition to be present I'd probably never venture out on the Bay, I've learned to sense when to reef and when to use full sails. With 282 square feet of sail on my 22 foot sloop, the waves and the chop don't play nearly as much havoc as the wind when it gusts up to 25+ kts. during the early afternoon. When sailing north to Angel Island, I'm close hauled all the way - it's times like this that I need to reef if my mailsail is luffing too much when I let it out to keep the boat from heeling over 35 or so degrees. Although having the starboard gunwale in the water is impressive with visitors aboard, it's not the most efficient way to get to where I'm going. The headsail is on a fuller and the main has two reef positions in it. I installed jiffy reefing last year to help me bring it down in less than a couple of minutes. Sailing singlehanded has been a way of life for me and I'm glad that I not only have a beautiful place to sail, but that I have a place to sail that tests my abilities every day.
I sail a 1971 Bristol Caravel out of Coyote Pt. on San Francisco Bay and I can definitely say that the way I tell whether or not to reef the mainsail is the degree of heel. In the winter we don't get much wind to speak of, but in the late spring and during the summer it makes up for it in spades! Almost anytime I go out during these months the "red flag" is flying, signaling small craft warnings. Since I know that if I waited for a no-flag condition to be present I'd probably never venture out on the Bay, I've learned to sense when to reef and when to use full sails. With 282 square feet of sail on my 22 foot sloop, the waves and the chop don't play nearly as much havoc as the wind when it gusts up to 25+ kts. during the early afternoon. When sailing north to Angel Island, I'm close hauled all the way - it's times like this that I need to reef if my mailsail is luffing too much when I let it out to keep the boat from heeling over 35 or so degrees. Although having the starboard gunwale in the water is impressive with visitors aboard, it's not the most efficient way to get to where I'm going. The headsail is on a fuller and the main has two reef positions in it. I installed jiffy reefing last year to help me bring it down in less than a couple of minutes. Sailing singlehanded has been a way of life for me and I'm glad that I not only have a beautiful place to sail, but that I have a place to sail that tests my abilities every day.
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SailboatOwners.com
Final results
Final results for the week ending 6/30/2002: It's time to reef when: 55% My crew or I become uncomfortable with conditions 23% Weather helm makes the boat difficult to control 15% Degree of heel becomes too great 08% A set apparent wind velocity is reached 1,009 owners responding
Final results for the week ending 6/30/2002: It's time to reef when: 55% My crew or I become uncomfortable with conditions 23% Weather helm makes the boat difficult to control 15% Degree of heel becomes too great 08% A set apparent wind velocity is reached 1,009 owners responding
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Dan Hogan
Heavy weather helm
I reef when the weather helm gets too heavy to be comfortable. On my 27 it's usually about the same time the lee rail goes in the water.
I reef when the weather helm gets too heavy to be comfortable. On my 27 it's usually about the same time the lee rail goes in the water.
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Terry Fields
Time to reef
Generally speaking, the crew is the dependent variable. Seems as though she is ready to "take a tuck" long before the boat.
Generally speaking, the crew is the dependent variable. Seems as though she is ready to "take a tuck" long before the boat.
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pete
sail slugs
We have always used the small, knurled knob, sail track stop available at West Marine etc for about $6 or $7. After the slides are all in the track,the stop is tightened just below the lowest slide,in the track. Ususally finger tightening is all that is required. When the sail is dropped the stop keeps the slides from falling out. Good sailing and hope this is helpful. Pete Hobe Sound Florida
We have always used the small, knurled knob, sail track stop available at West Marine etc for about $6 or $7. After the slides are all in the track,the stop is tightened just below the lowest slide,in the track. Ususally finger tightening is all that is required. When the sail is dropped the stop keeps the slides from falling out. Good sailing and hope this is helpful. Pete Hobe Sound Florida
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