Getting rid of grease stains

Jan 1, 2006
7,468
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Areas of the gelcoat around my engine have been stained with grease which was (Over) applied to the steering cable. It appears to be ingrained in the gel coat. Can anyone suggest what to use to remove it? It seems like sanding, or compounding would push it further into the gel coat. Acetone? Alcohol? Mineral Spirits? Xylene?
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,161
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Acetone works well on grease/petroleum/rubber scuff marks... etc... don't let it sit. wipe on, wipe off.. freshwater rinse or wet wash rag if inside.

Use an acid based cleaners for organic growth like algae and mildew.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
Mr Clean Magic Eraser
I found they take shoe marks off our cockpit too.
Ken
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
although acetone, laquer thinner, ether, xylol/xylene, ect will clean grease smudges and oily parts, they are very flammable and evaporate rather quickly.
one of the very strongest grease dissolvers that is not flammable, will remain on the surface and work for awhile before evaporating, and is available on shelves for consumer use is whitewall tire cleaner...
it is what wrecking yards use to spray on greasy parts that they take off to loosen and dissolve years old build up (they buy it in 55gal drums)... its very effective if you have 10 minutes for it to work before spraying with water...

BUT... stained gelcoat may be permanent even after getting any oil residue out of it....
sometimes the stain is caused by an organic compound that can only be removed or bleached with a strong acid... most greases have organic compounds in them to thicken them..

so i would try soaking the stain with a rag wetted with whitewall cleaner for an hour or two, followed by a rinse... then a 30 minute soak with muratic acid (I use hydroflouric acid) in the same manner... if that doesnt remove it, it cant be removed removed without taking the gelcoat with it.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Mr Clean Magic Eraser
I found they take shoe marks off our cockpit too.
Ken
I see a lot of people promoting the use of these things... and I know they work reasonably well for most surface smudges, without the need for adding harsh chemicals to the cleaning process, but i wonder if anyone has tried them on actual gelcoat stains, such as the tannin stains on an older boat hull that has sat in dirty water, or grease stains...

they are a good item to have in the "cleaning arsenal" but I would be interested to know how they would perform on an actual stain...
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
Magic Eraser: No luck on tannin. They work on grease, rust, shoe marks, other unknown stains. I've only had luck with acid or abrasives on tannin.
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,161
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
although acetone, laquer thinner, ether, xylol/xylene, ect will clean grease smudges and oily parts, they are very flammable and evaporate rather quickly.
one of the very strongest grease dissolvers that is not flammable, will remain on the surface and work for awhile before evaporating, and is available on shelves for consumer use is whitewall tire cleaner...
it is what wrecking yards use to spray on greasy parts that they take off to loosen and dissolve years old build up (they buy it in 55gal drums)... its very effective if you have 10 minutes for it to work before spraying with water...

BUT... stained gelcoat may be permanent even after getting any oil residue out of it....
sometimes the stain is caused by an organic compound that can only be removed or bleached with a strong acid... most greases have organic compounds in them to thicken them..

so i would try soaking the stain with a rag wetted with whitewall cleaner for an hour or two, followed by a rinse... then a 30 minute soak with muratic acid (I use hydroflouric acid) in the same manner... if that doesnt remove it, it cant be removed removed without taking the gelcoat with it.
Well... before you go through all that.. take the optimistic approach and try the acetone method first... takes 5 minutes... then if that doesn't work.. go to the next level as centerline suggests.
 
Dec 25, 2014
84
Catalina 27 Pasadena, Md
Be very careful when using hydrofluoric acid, many years ago when I was a dental lab tech we used it for some cleaning, but it is VERY strong stuff, will "clean" flesh right off the bone, be VERY CAREFUL if using that.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,435
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Fiberglass stain remover (FSR). Basically a gelled oxalic acid. It will stay on vertical surfaces.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Be very careful when using hydrofluoric acid, many years ago when I was a dental lab tech we used it for some cleaning, but it is VERY strong stuff, will "clean" flesh right off the bone, be VERY CAREFUL if using that.
yep, strong stuff...we arent talking vinegar or lemon juice any more... muratic acid has a very respectable strength, but hydroflouric is the only acid that will actually eat its way out of a glass container. its dangerous on a few different levels.