Everytime I pull my boat out, it slips back a few inches from the bow chock. Then the unsupported bow bounces madly up and down everytime I hit a bump on the road. Someone once told me that you can brake sharply while going down a steep hill and the boat will slip back into place. However, the only steep hill would be down the launching ramp toward the water and I'm too chicken to try this. Any other ideas or suggestions?
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Mark A.
The MacGregor Bump
First you have the boat on the trailer, totally derigged and ready to go. Don't have tighten all the straps yet that hold the boat to the trailer. Move foward a few feet and jamb on the brakes. Go out and tighen up the winch. If all looks well, your ready to go. If not repeat the procedure. I replaced the useless carpeted wood block in the front with a roller. It will save the bow from crashing into the trailer. I have been told but have not tried yet to spray silicon on the bunks before you load the boat on. Sounds like a good idea and I can't see any harm.
First you have the boat on the trailer, totally derigged and ready to go. Don't have tighten all the straps yet that hold the boat to the trailer. Move foward a few feet and jamb on the brakes. Go out and tighen up the winch. If all looks well, your ready to go. If not repeat the procedure. I replaced the useless carpeted wood block in the front with a roller. It will save the bow from crashing into the trailer. I have been told but have not tried yet to spray silicon on the bunks before you load the boat on. Sounds like a good idea and I can't see any harm.
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Curtiss Grant
The MAC bump!
I know what you mean about being difficult to load the boat far forward into the bow V block. The closest I can get is 3-4 inches from the block. My trailer is a 1991 and has the cross V cradles rather than the side bunk rails. Consequently, it is even more difficult to get forward on the trailer. Once my boat is on the trailer, I have NEVER been able to move it - regardless of the bumps. I do not even strap it down while trailering, that is how confident I am that it does not move. If I am going to dry dock my boat, I do not worry about the load. If I am going to derig and travel, I pull it out of the water to the spot where I derig, upon completion and the water having all drained out of the ballast, I then back the boat back into the water until it barely floats, wench it up as tight into the V as possible, then pull out. I repeat this multiple times if needed. I have found the more shadow and less degrees of slope of the ramp works the best. I have mixed opinion on how tight to have the bow wenched to the trailer. If my boat is far forward, it does not seem to make much difference. However, if the boat is sitting back, it really bounces, as you indicate, and sometimes I actually leave the bow strap just snug. When I tried it real tight, it seemed to put a lot of stress on the trailer and the bow wench I am planning a some changes: 1) raise the back V cradle 2-3 inches which should improve loading and trailering as well. 2) I am going to install a lower hitch to my Ford Ranger 4X4. This bumper sits higher than my old one and consequently causes the boat to weave at 65-70 MPH if I get much below 1/2 tank of gas. Of course with a FORD, trying to keep more than a 1/2 tank of gas is IMPOSSIBLE!! 3) I put new larger tires on, Carlisle ST 225/75/15 which has load range of 2500 pounds EACH. Tires were about $70 each, rims at junk yard, $15 each. Now I have 2 spares which I do not anticipate ever needing. The idea of a blow out at high speeds really concern me. Good luck.
I know what you mean about being difficult to load the boat far forward into the bow V block. The closest I can get is 3-4 inches from the block. My trailer is a 1991 and has the cross V cradles rather than the side bunk rails. Consequently, it is even more difficult to get forward on the trailer. Once my boat is on the trailer, I have NEVER been able to move it - regardless of the bumps. I do not even strap it down while trailering, that is how confident I am that it does not move. If I am going to dry dock my boat, I do not worry about the load. If I am going to derig and travel, I pull it out of the water to the spot where I derig, upon completion and the water having all drained out of the ballast, I then back the boat back into the water until it barely floats, wench it up as tight into the V as possible, then pull out. I repeat this multiple times if needed. I have found the more shadow and less degrees of slope of the ramp works the best. I have mixed opinion on how tight to have the bow wenched to the trailer. If my boat is far forward, it does not seem to make much difference. However, if the boat is sitting back, it really bounces, as you indicate, and sometimes I actually leave the bow strap just snug. When I tried it real tight, it seemed to put a lot of stress on the trailer and the bow wench I am planning a some changes: 1) raise the back V cradle 2-3 inches which should improve loading and trailering as well. 2) I am going to install a lower hitch to my Ford Ranger 4X4. This bumper sits higher than my old one and consequently causes the boat to weave at 65-70 MPH if I get much below 1/2 tank of gas. Of course with a FORD, trying to keep more than a 1/2 tank of gas is IMPOSSIBLE!! 3) I put new larger tires on, Carlisle ST 225/75/15 which has load range of 2500 pounds EACH. Tires were about $70 each, rims at junk yard, $15 each. Now I have 2 spares which I do not anticipate ever needing. The idea of a blow out at high speeds really concern me. Good luck.
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Doug Rodrigues
Fabricate a trailer tongue extention.
Why not just fabricate a 6 foot trailer tongue (I think that's what it's called) extension? I did so using two inch square stock, and attaching it to the top of the trailer tongue via two bolts drilled straight through. The trailer does not sway, regardless of tongue weight. The boat can be placed deeper into the water, and the bow can be pulled right-up snug with the rubber bumper. However, getting the stern centered on the bunks does become a problem, because with the bow placed into the rubber bumper, the stern is still afloat. It takes a few tries pulling the trailer out of the water to center the stern. Or...installing a couple of guide tubes would help. That's my next project.
Why not just fabricate a 6 foot trailer tongue (I think that's what it's called) extension? I did so using two inch square stock, and attaching it to the top of the trailer tongue via two bolts drilled straight through. The trailer does not sway, regardless of tongue weight. The boat can be placed deeper into the water, and the bow can be pulled right-up snug with the rubber bumper. However, getting the stern centered on the bunks does become a problem, because with the bow placed into the rubber bumper, the stern is still afloat. It takes a few tries pulling the trailer out of the water to center the stern. Or...installing a couple of guide tubes would help. That's my next project.
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Michael Spiers
What I do
What I do is find level ground after leaving the ramp, and just really crank down on the wench until I snug it tight. Im 6'2'' 270lbs and its all I can do to get it done, but I have snugged it up from as far away as 6 inches (approx.) Ive never snapped the wench cable but it always makes me think I am about to.
What I do is find level ground after leaving the ramp, and just really crank down on the wench until I snug it tight. Im 6'2'' 270lbs and its all I can do to get it done, but I have snugged it up from as far away as 6 inches (approx.) Ive never snapped the wench cable but it always makes me think I am about to.
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Brad Crabtree
Trailer Adjustment.
What I have recently done is had my trailer adjusted. The forward V was taken out and replaced with 4 foot sections of 2X8 that ran aft in a V towards an added brace. I dry store my boat and found this adjusment makes getting my McGregor in and out of the water much easier, and got rid of the 2-3 inch nose gap problem. Prior to this I did the "MacGregor" bump once the boat was broken down and I was going on a long haul. My trailer adjustment cost $250, and I feel with the added ease of getting my boat on the trailer it was well worth it. Crabby
What I have recently done is had my trailer adjusted. The forward V was taken out and replaced with 4 foot sections of 2X8 that ran aft in a V towards an added brace. I dry store my boat and found this adjusment makes getting my McGregor in and out of the water much easier, and got rid of the 2-3 inch nose gap problem. Prior to this I did the "MacGregor" bump once the boat was broken down and I was going on a long haul. My trailer adjustment cost $250, and I feel with the added ease of getting my boat on the trailer it was well worth it. Crabby
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Mike
Simple solution
I own the same boat and trailer. I simply over snug the trailer winch cable so that the bow is pulled up about 2-3 inches tighter than it needs to be, once you pull out of the water, the boat moves back and ends up exactly where you want it. Right up against the rubber trailer bow stopper.
I own the same boat and trailer. I simply over snug the trailer winch cable so that the bow is pulled up about 2-3 inches tighter than it needs to be, once you pull out of the water, the boat moves back and ends up exactly where you want it. Right up against the rubber trailer bow stopper.
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Rick Tenan
I gave up on "the bump".
My trailer had no tie-down eyes, straps, rollers or anything other than the winch line to hold the boat in place. I had a hard time getting the boat to snug-up, and the bow frequently ended up slightly below the bow-yoke. Very agrivating. I used the "bump" several times to settle the boat against the yoke. I finally had a good trailer shop install a spare-tire holder, four tie-down eyes, and a bow roller. The roller lifts the bow into the proper position to fit the yoke, allows the winch line to tighten correctly, and eliminates the need for the "Macgregor bump".
My trailer had no tie-down eyes, straps, rollers or anything other than the winch line to hold the boat in place. I had a hard time getting the boat to snug-up, and the bow frequently ended up slightly below the bow-yoke. Very agrivating. I used the "bump" several times to settle the boat against the yoke. I finally had a good trailer shop install a spare-tire holder, four tie-down eyes, and a bow roller. The roller lifts the bow into the proper position to fit the yoke, allows the winch line to tighten correctly, and eliminates the need for the "Macgregor bump".
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Kim
Bow cleat to ladder line
I use the bow cleats and tie a line from them to the top of the ladder on my 26X.
I use the bow cleats and tie a line from them to the top of the ladder on my 26X.
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