Well, it's approaching that time around these parts ('dammed' inland lakes) when the plebs (those without deep-water slips) have to haul their boats out before the water level drops and our summer slips 'dry up'. I put my new Beneteau F235 (23.5'; 2'9" draft wing keel variety) in the water with just a little trouble this July, and now I have to plan how to retrieve it some time this month. I haven't retrieved anything with a fixed keel before, so I don't know what devils lurk in the details of the process. Can anyone give me some useful tips and warnings before I attempt this? If it matters, the trailer supports the hull on six individual adjustable pads, rather than on two long 'bunks'. I haven't played with the pad support heights, so they should still be set right. Here's a link to a couple of pictures of it on the trailer: http://207.44.248.86/~kh/beneteau235/235_mast_raise.htm The trailer has two axles, and an 8' tongue. However, the top portions of our ramps are steep-ish, then they flatten out abruptly before the boat floats, so the tongue didn't help me at the launch. Instead, I had to unhitch the trailer when it reached the flatter portion of the ramp, then bodily push it into deep enough water to float off the boat. The bow post of the trailer doesn't have a winch, but I should be able to push the trailer into deep enough water to capture the boat properly before (somehow) pulling the trailer part way up the ramp, where it can be hitched to the vehicle. Oh yes, there is no travel-lift I could use instead that is close enough to consider. This should be lots of fun ... I'm already practicing a few choice 'salty' exclamations that I think I'll need during the process. ... H E L P ... Thanks, Neil
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
Dan
retrieval
I have a few tips that might help you out. This might be a little dicey but you could try a heavy duty tow strap securely fastened to both the trailer and tow vehicle to pull it out to the point where you can safely chock the wheels then reconnect the proper hitch. Another option that I have actually used is a home-made tongue extension. I bought a 12' length of 2.5" square tubing from my local steel supply and bolted a 2" trailer coupler to one end and had a hole drilled in the other end to accept the 2" ball mount from my truck. I use the trailers tongue jack with wheel to support the trailer tongue and pull out very very slow with someone to help guide the front of the trailer until you can chock the wheels and hook up to the normal hitch. One other piece of advise for keeping the boat aligned to the trailer during this process since it probably doesn't have a bow eye. I use two long heavy duty load straps that I purchased at Home Depot. I attach non-ratchet end to each winch and run them outside the lifelines along the side of the hull. The ratchet ends are attached to the bow post on the trailer. use the ratchets to pull the boat firmly into the bow post and they will hold it there while you pull out. You may need a keel guide on the trailer also for this to work right. I hope this helps you some. Good luck. Dan
I have a few tips that might help you out. This might be a little dicey but you could try a heavy duty tow strap securely fastened to both the trailer and tow vehicle to pull it out to the point where you can safely chock the wheels then reconnect the proper hitch. Another option that I have actually used is a home-made tongue extension. I bought a 12' length of 2.5" square tubing from my local steel supply and bolted a 2" trailer coupler to one end and had a hole drilled in the other end to accept the 2" ball mount from my truck. I use the trailers tongue jack with wheel to support the trailer tongue and pull out very very slow with someone to help guide the front of the trailer until you can chock the wheels and hook up to the normal hitch. One other piece of advise for keeping the boat aligned to the trailer during this process since it probably doesn't have a bow eye. I use two long heavy duty load straps that I purchased at Home Depot. I attach non-ratchet end to each winch and run them outside the lifelines along the side of the hull. The ratchet ends are attached to the bow post on the trailer. use the ratchets to pull the boat firmly into the bow post and they will hold it there while you pull out. You may need a keel guide on the trailer also for this to work right. I hope this helps you some. Good luck. Dan
D
David Walters
Another hint
Keep the trailer level, side-to-side. If the trailer get at all tipped to either side the boat will settle kitty-whompass on the trailer. Also, seriously consider getting that trailer winch, and putting a bow eye in for next season. I routinely had the boat settle back a foot or more when retrieving because tie-down angle of attack was changing as the boat came up the ramp. My less-than-elegant solution was to use the 3" ratcheting strap to winch the boat forward after it was out of the water. There were a few dicey moments when there was negative tongue weight and the back of the pick-up started to lift. Luckily, my sitting on the tongue while winching kept it down long enough to get the job done. Now that I have the bow eye at the same height as the trailer winch, I'm able to winch the boat forward the last foot or so, and she stays put as the trailer comes up the ramp. Oh, yeah the tow strap extension idea works, but it will certainly make the other boaters nervous!!
Keep the trailer level, side-to-side. If the trailer get at all tipped to either side the boat will settle kitty-whompass on the trailer. Also, seriously consider getting that trailer winch, and putting a bow eye in for next season. I routinely had the boat settle back a foot or more when retrieving because tie-down angle of attack was changing as the boat came up the ramp. My less-than-elegant solution was to use the 3" ratcheting strap to winch the boat forward after it was out of the water. There were a few dicey moments when there was negative tongue weight and the back of the pick-up started to lift. Luckily, my sitting on the tongue while winching kept it down long enough to get the job done. Now that I have the bow eye at the same height as the trailer winch, I'm able to winch the boat forward the last foot or so, and she stays put as the trailer comes up the ramp. Oh, yeah the tow strap extension idea works, but it will certainly make the other boaters nervous!!
K
Kelly Holsten
Bow Eye? Lordy....
I dont know about the ole Bow Eye advice. You want that beast to look like a 14ft Boston Whaler? Heh.... Man. I cant imagine the clean plumb bow with a goofy bow eye on it. Insanity Dave! Wacky! The bow is the best part of this craft. Why not run a line out the chock on the port or startboard bow? Or both? I see your point though...but damn if that isnt pretty ugly on a boat of that size, especially a sailboat. I am still trying to imagine it. Frankly, I am frightened to go to sleep now! heh... kh http://www.beneteau235.com/
I dont know about the ole Bow Eye advice. You want that beast to look like a 14ft Boston Whaler? Heh.... Man. I cant imagine the clean plumb bow with a goofy bow eye on it. Insanity Dave! Wacky! The bow is the best part of this craft. Why not run a line out the chock on the port or startboard bow? Or both? I see your point though...but damn if that isnt pretty ugly on a boat of that size, especially a sailboat. I am still trying to imagine it. Frankly, I am frightened to go to sleep now! heh... kh http://www.beneteau235.com/
G
George
Sympathize......
Wow! Who designed your boat ramps? Must have been a powerboat bigot! Surprised the marina doesn't have one of those long extensions with 2 wheels that are close to the end that attaches to trailer. The wheels are a couple of feet apart to balance the extension and to support the tongue weight. This would allow you to back the trailor in a good distance and pull it out easily. As someone stated in a reply, keep the trailer level to the water line so that the boat will sit straight on the trailer. RE bow eye: I have one on my 235 and it does not look obtrusive. Probably installed when the trailer was made for the boat. It is nice to be able to winch the boat against the bow stop before pulling from the water. As far as getting the boat on the trailer correctly over the trailer pads (this is a real pain when it is windy!) -- I got very frustrated fighting this and built guides attached to the trailer to contain the boat over the pads. The guides are positioned on the trailer so that they are about even with the rear of the cabin when the boat is on the trailer. I used several,(5 or 6),layers of 3/8" plywood about 4 1/2" wide. I was able to bend them to the shape I wanted and then used glue and screws to hold the shape. 1/8" steel plates sandwich them against the trailer frame. From the trailer attachment point they need to gently bend outward so that they are a little less than the width of the boat at about the waterline and then gently bend back upward to the width of the boat. The length is just below the toe-rail. I wrap and tack some old kitchen carpet around the top part where the hull rubs. Obviously, these are not strong enough to contain the boat so I drilled holes within a couple of inches of the tops and ran 7/16" rope from the furthermost rear point on the trailer(and inboard some but not so much that you might catch the keel) up around the top of the guide and then through the hole, on to the front of the trailer just below the bow stop, back to the other guide hole, and back down to the back of the trailer. This rope, if wrapped around or tied to the guide and kept snug, will give the guides support laterally as well as fore and aft. Sorry for being so verbose! Good luck, Neil. George
Wow! Who designed your boat ramps? Must have been a powerboat bigot! Surprised the marina doesn't have one of those long extensions with 2 wheels that are close to the end that attaches to trailer. The wheels are a couple of feet apart to balance the extension and to support the tongue weight. This would allow you to back the trailor in a good distance and pull it out easily. As someone stated in a reply, keep the trailer level to the water line so that the boat will sit straight on the trailer. RE bow eye: I have one on my 235 and it does not look obtrusive. Probably installed when the trailer was made for the boat. It is nice to be able to winch the boat against the bow stop before pulling from the water. As far as getting the boat on the trailer correctly over the trailer pads (this is a real pain when it is windy!) -- I got very frustrated fighting this and built guides attached to the trailer to contain the boat over the pads. The guides are positioned on the trailer so that they are about even with the rear of the cabin when the boat is on the trailer. I used several,(5 or 6),layers of 3/8" plywood about 4 1/2" wide. I was able to bend them to the shape I wanted and then used glue and screws to hold the shape. 1/8" steel plates sandwich them against the trailer frame. From the trailer attachment point they need to gently bend outward so that they are a little less than the width of the boat at about the waterline and then gently bend back upward to the width of the boat. The length is just below the toe-rail. I wrap and tack some old kitchen carpet around the top part where the hull rubs. Obviously, these are not strong enough to contain the boat so I drilled holes within a couple of inches of the tops and ran 7/16" rope from the furthermost rear point on the trailer(and inboard some but not so much that you might catch the keel) up around the top of the guide and then through the hole, on to the front of the trailer just below the bow stop, back to the other guide hole, and back down to the back of the trailer. This rope, if wrapped around or tied to the guide and kept snug, will give the guides support laterally as well as fore and aft. Sorry for being so verbose! Good luck, Neil. George
N
Neil
it's out now - thanks
Thanks for all your advice (I got some good advice on the allsailors forum too). It all helped make a potentially tricky process relatively easy and safe. For what it's worth, I did learn a very valuable lesson to use next time. My trailer has six hull-support pads instead of a pair of long bunks. While I anticipate this design will simplify my work below the water line this winter, it sure complicated the haul-out process. Those pesky pads wanted to present themselves at all sorts of angles to the hull - often reorienting themselves right at the moment the hull was ready to ly on them. It took my son and I hanging from each toe rail to keep them in place - one foot on a trailer fender and the other trying to manipulate the pad - as the driver slowly hauled the boat out. Only when we were completely out did I notice the small eyelets screwed into the undersides of each pad - one pad even had scraps of string attached to its eyelets from previous use ... Duh! ... If I'd tied the pads at approximately the desired angle with ligth line through the eyelets before backing the trailer into the water I would have saved all of us a lot of time and bother. Live and learn! Thanks, Neil
Thanks for all your advice (I got some good advice on the allsailors forum too). It all helped make a potentially tricky process relatively easy and safe. For what it's worth, I did learn a very valuable lesson to use next time. My trailer has six hull-support pads instead of a pair of long bunks. While I anticipate this design will simplify my work below the water line this winter, it sure complicated the haul-out process. Those pesky pads wanted to present themselves at all sorts of angles to the hull - often reorienting themselves right at the moment the hull was ready to ly on them. It took my son and I hanging from each toe rail to keep them in place - one foot on a trailer fender and the other trying to manipulate the pad - as the driver slowly hauled the boat out. Only when we were completely out did I notice the small eyelets screwed into the undersides of each pad - one pad even had scraps of string attached to its eyelets from previous use ... Duh! ... If I'd tied the pads at approximately the desired angle with ligth line through the eyelets before backing the trailer into the water I would have saved all of us a lot of time and bother. Live and learn! Thanks, Neil
J
jay
retrieving
just took my 235 out of the water; dry sail it and launch with trailer all the time. this time may be tougher than next time - more on that in a minute. Get a chain or cable or tow strap (I use 2 tow straps for 40'); I back down to the water, have a wheel on the front of my trailer; chock the trailer, attach the strap, pull forward to remove the chock, back the trailer WAY BACK in the water so I can float the boat onto the trailer; secure it to the trailer, pull it out and onto level ground, chock trailer, undo everything, etc. a danger is that you go so far back that the trailer wheels fall off of the ramp if it is not long enough; seeif you can findout where the ramp ends, that can be a bear to get back up on the ramp if that should happen. For next year, modify the trailer somewhat so that the boat can only float onto the trailer the right way (using keel guides, etc. that way you don't have to worry about whether the boat is on the trailer properly. If you have any questions,m email me and I'll give you a call.
just took my 235 out of the water; dry sail it and launch with trailer all the time. this time may be tougher than next time - more on that in a minute. Get a chain or cable or tow strap (I use 2 tow straps for 40'); I back down to the water, have a wheel on the front of my trailer; chock the trailer, attach the strap, pull forward to remove the chock, back the trailer WAY BACK in the water so I can float the boat onto the trailer; secure it to the trailer, pull it out and onto level ground, chock trailer, undo everything, etc. a danger is that you go so far back that the trailer wheels fall off of the ramp if it is not long enough; seeif you can findout where the ramp ends, that can be a bear to get back up on the ramp if that should happen. For next year, modify the trailer somewhat so that the boat can only float onto the trailer the right way (using keel guides, etc. that way you don't have to worry about whether the boat is on the trailer properly. If you have any questions,m email me and I'll give you a call.
K
Kelly Holsten
Any one have any pics?
I'll post a follow up on launching and retrieving the F235 on the site if anyone has any pics/comments and cares to send them. I have only pulled my boat in and out with a crane so still have not tried the trailer approach even though it's a wing keel. It appears as if the bunks and guide, which is the factory config for the wing keel trailer it seems, is the easiest way to go. This, combined with a long trailer extension, really aid matters (though the pads being tied at the proper angle is a smart solution, too). A good ramp sure doesnt hurt either, especially if your trailer is higher than stock. As for the Bow eye, good to see it doesnt look as bad as I imagined. Anyone with some pics of their boat with the bow eye? I wouldnt mind seeing it. It would obviously make things easier but I just questioned the aesthetics. I am working on getting a forum JUST for the F235 on the site. I hope to have an owner database sometime as well. IT's great that so many F235 owners appear to be now talking here. There seem to be more 235 posts than others. Kelly http://www.beneteau235.com/
I'll post a follow up on launching and retrieving the F235 on the site if anyone has any pics/comments and cares to send them. I have only pulled my boat in and out with a crane so still have not tried the trailer approach even though it's a wing keel. It appears as if the bunks and guide, which is the factory config for the wing keel trailer it seems, is the easiest way to go. This, combined with a long trailer extension, really aid matters (though the pads being tied at the proper angle is a smart solution, too). A good ramp sure doesnt hurt either, especially if your trailer is higher than stock. As for the Bow eye, good to see it doesnt look as bad as I imagined. Anyone with some pics of their boat with the bow eye? I wouldnt mind seeing it. It would obviously make things easier but I just questioned the aesthetics. I am working on getting a forum JUST for the F235 on the site. I hope to have an owner database sometime as well. IT's great that so many F235 owners appear to be now talking here. There seem to be more 235 posts than others. Kelly http://www.beneteau235.com/
- Status
- Not open for further replies.