I just got a 23 and my question is about the jib and genoa sheets. There are two fixed blocks just behind the shrouds, I assume these are for the jib sheets. There are also two tracks with moveable blocks behind the wenches along the cockpit, would these be for a genoa if I get? Or were they put in the wrong place be the po? Or are they for something else, like a spinaker? Thanks
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My question exactly
My '79 Oday 23 is set up the same way, and I had the same question you do. The fixed blocks are indeed for the jib sheets. I have found them to be well placed for the original sized 110 jib. The rear blocks on the tracks seem to be more mysterious; as far as I can tell, they are factory installed (note the hull shape underneath the tracks. I use them on those rare occasions when I fly my 150 jenny. I put the blocks fairly far forward, lead the jenny sheets to the blocks and then forward to the winches. I have also seen old sales photos of the 23 flying a spinaker, with the moveable blocks used for those sheets too.
My '79 Oday 23 is set up the same way, and I had the same question you do. The fixed blocks are indeed for the jib sheets. I have found them to be well placed for the original sized 110 jib. The rear blocks on the tracks seem to be more mysterious; as far as I can tell, they are factory installed (note the hull shape underneath the tracks. I use them on those rare occasions when I fly my 150 jenny. I put the blocks fairly far forward, lead the jenny sheets to the blocks and then forward to the winches. I have also seen old sales photos of the 23 flying a spinaker, with the moveable blocks used for those sheets too.
I think
my 22 had the 2 fixed blocks near the shrouds. I used them for the 100%jib. the tracks on the toe rail with sliding blocks were used for the 150% genny. And there were 2 fixed blocks at each end of the cockpit coaming. they were used for the spinnaker guys. As for the tracks.... I felt that they were too far aft to have a good sheeting angle for the genny, as I kept the blocks all the way foward on them and there wasn't lots of room to move them around. I reset them about 3 ft. foward (using the existing bolt holes, I only had to drill 3 new holes through the toe rail and deck.)
my 22 had the 2 fixed blocks near the shrouds. I used them for the 100%jib. the tracks on the toe rail with sliding blocks were used for the 150% genny. And there were 2 fixed blocks at each end of the cockpit coaming. they were used for the spinnaker guys. As for the tracks.... I felt that they were too far aft to have a good sheeting angle for the genny, as I kept the blocks all the way foward on them and there wasn't lots of room to move them around. I reset them about 3 ft. foward (using the existing bolt holes, I only had to drill 3 new holes through the toe rail and deck.)
Remove and Replace
Those fixed blocks was a poor design idea to save cost or something. When the wind changes you need the ability to trim the sail by opening or closing the leach and foot of the sail. This is accomplished by moving the jib/genoa car forward, which pulls down on the leach of the sail closing the leach. This makes the sail more efficient in light air. In heavier air, move the car back on the track to dump air from the top of the sail, reducing healing moment and leeway. It will also tighten up/flatten the foot of the sail. I would remove the existing fixed block because you will never use it again (a strategicly placed trip hazard), and replace it with a 6' piece of 1" T-track, the middle of which should be located where the old fixed block was. Once this is done, go out and play with it, don't over trim or under trim and see the extra performance you get out of your sails. Be sure to bed the track/deck holes properly. I did this on my O'day27 3 days after my first sail. Fair Winds, Dave
Those fixed blocks was a poor design idea to save cost or something. When the wind changes you need the ability to trim the sail by opening or closing the leach and foot of the sail. This is accomplished by moving the jib/genoa car forward, which pulls down on the leach of the sail closing the leach. This makes the sail more efficient in light air. In heavier air, move the car back on the track to dump air from the top of the sail, reducing healing moment and leeway. It will also tighten up/flatten the foot of the sail. I would remove the existing fixed block because you will never use it again (a strategicly placed trip hazard), and replace it with a 6' piece of 1" T-track, the middle of which should be located where the old fixed block was. Once this is done, go out and play with it, don't over trim or under trim and see the extra performance you get out of your sails. Be sure to bed the track/deck holes properly. I did this on my O'day27 3 days after my first sail. Fair Winds, Dave
Look at the manual here
Ed, I have a 1982 23 and the previous post by Mike is correct. You can check out the rigging infromation here and look at the pictures. http://www.odayowners.com/manuals/23/manual-7.jpg The blocks on the deck are for the small jib. If you fly a 150 or a large genny then you need the blocks on the tracks to get reasonable sail shape. The ability to move the blocks allows you to trim for better shape - Again this is a great web site once you get familiar with it - Check out all the information on sail trim by Don Guillette in the Sail Trim Forum. especially check the archives of Don's advice. the photos of other peoples 23's will also help here is a link to that - again on this web site: http://www.sailboatowners.com/album/display.tpl?id=73169446559&fno=60 and http://www.sailboatowners.com/album/display.tpl?id=73144029778&fno=60 You can see the sheets for this particular set-up. Finally if you look at one of the O'Day publicity pictures you will see that the tracks are used for the Spinnaker- Now I don't have one of those .... yet! http://www.odayowners.com/manuals/23/manual-1.jpg Note there is an "expand" button in the lower right hand corner of the pictures - move you mouse in the lower corner and the button will appear. Good luck. James
Ed, I have a 1982 23 and the previous post by Mike is correct. You can check out the rigging infromation here and look at the pictures. http://www.odayowners.com/manuals/23/manual-7.jpg The blocks on the deck are for the small jib. If you fly a 150 or a large genny then you need the blocks on the tracks to get reasonable sail shape. The ability to move the blocks allows you to trim for better shape - Again this is a great web site once you get familiar with it - Check out all the information on sail trim by Don Guillette in the Sail Trim Forum. especially check the archives of Don's advice. the photos of other peoples 23's will also help here is a link to that - again on this web site: http://www.sailboatowners.com/album/display.tpl?id=73169446559&fno=60 and http://www.sailboatowners.com/album/display.tpl?id=73144029778&fno=60 You can see the sheets for this particular set-up. Finally if you look at one of the O'Day publicity pictures you will see that the tracks are used for the Spinnaker- Now I don't have one of those .... yet! http://www.odayowners.com/manuals/23/manual-1.jpg Note there is an "expand" button in the lower right hand corner of the pictures - move you mouse in the lower corner and the button will appear. Good luck. James
Can't see much
detail in those photos James. And I have the original rigging instructions from O'day which don't mention the tracks beside the cockpit. But thanks.
detail in those photos James. And I have the original rigging instructions from O'day which don't mention the tracks beside the cockpit. But thanks.
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