We have a 1985 Catalina 30 and would like to relocate the Genoa T-track inboard of the safety lines as per later models of the C30. Has anyone done this and if so what kind of problems, if any were encounter?
Genoa T-track location
- Thread starter barefoot1985
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if you mean the fairlead track, my late mkii track has what seems a major installation done in construction and not something i would consider as an update.
barefoot1985: I'm just curious -- why do you want to relocate the track?
Here's why I ask. Normally, the inboard track is used for closehauled work and the outboard or rail track is used for all other points of sail. That's why serious racing boats have two sets of track.
Boat builder have to make a choice as to track location and most make a cosmetic decision as to track placement. if given the choice, the outboard track is a better all around general location. You can use a barberhauler for your closhauled work.
My 1980 C30 had a cabin top track and I spent hours (and drank many "Tinney's - Aussie for beer) trying to figure a way to get around the safety line to use that cabin top track. I never did figure a way and resorted to the barberhauler.
Here's why I ask. Normally, the inboard track is used for closehauled work and the outboard or rail track is used for all other points of sail. That's why serious racing boats have two sets of track.
Boat builder have to make a choice as to track location and most make a cosmetic decision as to track placement. if given the choice, the outboard track is a better all around general location. You can use a barberhauler for your closhauled work.
My 1980 C30 had a cabin top track and I spent hours (and drank many "Tinney's - Aussie for beer) trying to figure a way to get around the safety line to use that cabin top track. I never did figure a way and resorted to the barberhauler.
i'll be more specific. first, there is a large and long groove deep into the deck so the track can be near flush with the deck; then there were many holes cut in the deck down to the cabin to hold the track down. there may be more but those two would be enough to stop me, but thanks, until now i didn't know catalina ever changed the design.
On my 1980 C30, I used my cabin top tracks for running my spinnaker & club sail.
The fairlead track was on my toe rail & I hated it. Using a 155 ginny, my sail shape was too flattened.
I installed new tracks inboard & I get a great sail shape now. Also being inboard, I can adjust the fairlead mostly from the cockpit. I looked at alot of newer boats with inboard tracks and patterned mine after them.
Check out my setup.
Also shown is the teak changeout using "sensibuilt" a manmade decking & facia board composite. I used the teak as a template for making everything. The only exterior teak left are the shortened handrails. The original length rails were always a trip point around the mast area, especially my guests would always trip over them.
CR
The fairlead track was on my toe rail & I hated it. Using a 155 ginny, my sail shape was too flattened.
I installed new tracks inboard & I get a great sail shape now. Also being inboard, I can adjust the fairlead mostly from the cockpit. I looked at alot of newer boats with inboard tracks and patterned mine after them.
Check out my setup.
Also shown is the teak changeout using "sensibuilt" a manmade decking & facia board composite. I used the teak as a template for making everything. The only exterior teak left are the shortened handrails. The original length rails were always a trip point around the mast area, especially my guests would always trip over them.
CR
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Mort,
My track is set based on my 155 ginney. On other production boats I looked at, the tracks are longer to allow all the different size sails 100's thru 155's. My placement is only for my sail. Other owners that prefer different size sails may adjust where & how long their tracks are to be.
CR
My track is set based on my 155 ginney. On other production boats I looked at, the tracks are longer to allow all the different size sails 100's thru 155's. My placement is only for my sail. Other owners that prefer different size sails may adjust where & how long their tracks are to be.
CR
Thank you for the barber hauler idea. I had to look it up online because I was not familiar with the term. I had jury rigged a line similar to it and that did work better upwind by bringing the jib sheet inboard a little. I think I will follow up with the barber hauler idea because it look like a long drawn out job to mount a new track inboard.
Thanks for getting back with the photo Captnron. Your boat looks great. You have installed the new track exactly where I wan to put mine. Questions: When drilling to mount the track how did you handle the cabin inside panel covering the bottom of the deck? Did you cut it away to get to the deck underside or just drill through it? Also, what did you use a bedding for the track and have there been any leak problems?
FYI, we installed a Garhauer main sheet traveler and it works great. We tend to use our traveler a lot more both down and up wind. It was expensive, but I think it was worth the dough.
FYI, we installed a Garhauer main sheet traveler and it works great. We tend to use our traveler a lot more both down and up wind. It was expensive, but I think it was worth the dough.
Barefoot,
I don't know what size your headsail is, but I feel the barber hauler for me is too much to do with the extra blocks and sheets based on my cruising style. I used to race, but no more. If you feel you need to move your tracks based on your sail size, look into your sail size & alternatives. If you have properly positioned tracks for your sail, this should be a breeze.
It's all about ease of operation and top deck acess availability, that's what makes your deck work easy. There are better options out there based on the type of sailing you do.
CR
I don't know what size your headsail is, but I feel the barber hauler for me is too much to do with the extra blocks and sheets based on my cruising style. I used to race, but no more. If you feel you need to move your tracks based on your sail size, look into your sail size & alternatives. If you have properly positioned tracks for your sail, this should be a breeze.
It's all about ease of operation and top deck acess availability, that's what makes your deck work easy. There are better options out there based on the type of sailing you do.
CR
Captnron: The problem I was trying to get around is the jib sheet hitting the safety line. At on point I considered cutting the safety line and making a connnection I could unhook when I wanted to. I was going to use a Garhauer snatch block to make switching between tracks easier.
After a while I just gave up and resorted to the barberhauler.
After a while I just gave up and resorted to the barberhauler.
captnron, every thing on the boat is a compromise but i have used the entire length of my fairlead track. and, did you pull your outboard track? a problem with my track is that it would not accept the garhauer variable fairlead system without major work which i was unwilling to do.
What ever you decide...... don't "relocate" the track. Leave it and the lead blocks in place.... because then you can still use it, when reaching, for example. Look at ron's picture you'll see he added the inside track but didn't disturb the factory track.... 'course, I'm sure that you meant "add" instead of "relocate", right?
Barefoot, Don, Mort & JR,
Barefoot,
On your earlier post, when I installed the new tracks, I drilled thru holes and had easy access for securing the nuts from below. I had some old 1" track with matching holes with the deck top track. I was able to use the old track below instead of washers for linear support, but you decide how you want to secure it from below. I don't feel that with the sail loads, washers are the best way to go, but rather a better or continuous backing plate of some form.
Not sure what you mean by "Did you cut it away to get to the deck underside or just drill through it?" As for the bedding, I like the Dow Corning 795, a good UV construction caulk. There was a thread earlier dealing with best ways to bed thru deck fittings. Check out that thread, there was some good info there. As for leaks, no I don't have any. It's all about the prep & application.
Don,
I assume you have your track on the toe rail as me. With my inboard track, look at my pic, the sheet doesn't interfere with the lifeline or stanchions on a variety of settings. I don’t know what size sail you use, which could put the track in a different location. Or, just get a longer track. I started out from the rear hole. I drilled it then flexed the track to match the cabin radius as I went. Drilling one hole at a time. The track flexes rather easily. Also, the camber in the track doesn’t interfere with sliding the fairlead.
Mort,
You have a newer boat, and design changes were made, your tracks were already inboard of the toe rail. The builder will have a longer track as it gives you options on using different size sails. I needed to add the inboard tracks for better point ability. My track was on the toe rail, that was my only option. If you re-read your earlier post #4, I'm not clear on it. The best would you to supply a pic of you boat, or revise your earlier post with more detail pal. Also, I never pulled my toe rail track as it doubles as the hull to deck attachment. I also use it for my spring line cleats.
JR,
What's up pal? Getting a good heavy duty midship track cleat has evolved for me. This is the third design I've used. The cleat is solid metal, NOT any rubber/composite material screwed from below. With volatile weather here in Florida, heavy duty is best. Check out this site. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1766
Make sure these are for your size lines. I use I believe 5/8" line. I had the Garhauer marine type with the center screw but the black composite weakened over time, and a little light duty for me in Florida.
CR
Barefoot,
On your earlier post, when I installed the new tracks, I drilled thru holes and had easy access for securing the nuts from below. I had some old 1" track with matching holes with the deck top track. I was able to use the old track below instead of washers for linear support, but you decide how you want to secure it from below. I don't feel that with the sail loads, washers are the best way to go, but rather a better or continuous backing plate of some form.
Not sure what you mean by "Did you cut it away to get to the deck underside or just drill through it?" As for the bedding, I like the Dow Corning 795, a good UV construction caulk. There was a thread earlier dealing with best ways to bed thru deck fittings. Check out that thread, there was some good info there. As for leaks, no I don't have any. It's all about the prep & application.
Don,
I assume you have your track on the toe rail as me. With my inboard track, look at my pic, the sheet doesn't interfere with the lifeline or stanchions on a variety of settings. I don’t know what size sail you use, which could put the track in a different location. Or, just get a longer track. I started out from the rear hole. I drilled it then flexed the track to match the cabin radius as I went. Drilling one hole at a time. The track flexes rather easily. Also, the camber in the track doesn’t interfere with sliding the fairlead.
Mort,
You have a newer boat, and design changes were made, your tracks were already inboard of the toe rail. The builder will have a longer track as it gives you options on using different size sails. I needed to add the inboard tracks for better point ability. My track was on the toe rail, that was my only option. If you re-read your earlier post #4, I'm not clear on it. The best would you to supply a pic of you boat, or revise your earlier post with more detail pal. Also, I never pulled my toe rail track as it doubles as the hull to deck attachment. I also use it for my spring line cleats.
JR,
What's up pal? Getting a good heavy duty midship track cleat has evolved for me. This is the third design I've used. The cleat is solid metal, NOT any rubber/composite material screwed from below. With volatile weather here in Florida, heavy duty is best. Check out this site. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1766
Make sure these are for your size lines. I use I believe 5/8" line. I had the Garhauer marine type with the center screw but the black composite weakened over time, and a little light duty for me in Florida.
CR
captnron, one of the things i was gettilng at is that my track is recessed in a substantial groove to keep it flush with the deck, did you create such a groove or is your track laid on the deck? unfortunately, as i said, this groove eliminates use of the garhauer fairlead system,
Mid-ship docking cleat: I tried a nylon mid-ship cleat and it broke with quickly at the dock with a power boat swell. Go metal.
Joe: You are correct, I meant "add". Thanks.
Joe: You are correct, I meant "add". Thanks.
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