generator size vs battery capacity question

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Feb 18, 2004
184
Catalina 36mkII Kincardine - Lake Huron
50 amp output on a Honda or Yamaha 1000

I want to remind eveyone of my earlier post that said quite clearly that trying to supply a 50 amp charger from a Honda EU1000i is a mistake. When making calculations of AC power required to supply the output of a battery charger one must be very careful. For example, the max output of the battery charger is likely 50 amps at close to 14.4 volts (not 12 volts) and as a result this requires more power from your genset. The reason it is 14.4 volts is that it needs to develope a high voltage to shove all those amps into your batteries. In addition, as Gord indicates, the efficiency of the charger must be taken into account. That efficiency may be about 80% or it may be slightly worse. Thus if you want to supply a 50 amp charger (when it is putting out 50 amps) then you need Power = (Volts x Amps)/efficiency. That is (14.4 x 50)/0.8 = 900 watts (or more if efficiency is less). This would mean that the genset would have to output 900watts/120volts = 7.5 amps. The Honda and Yamaha 1000 watt (maximum) can output 900 watts continuous. They are on the very edge of being able to supply a 50 amp charger. The max continuous rating is 7.5 amps at 120 volts. You are truly on the edge of a trip. As I indicated earlier I talked to a person who bought a Honda EU1000i which outputs 7.5 amps. His 50 amp charger immediately tripped the breaker on his new Honda genset. He was able to talk the dealer into allowing him to return the generator and moving up to a Honda EU2000i. Note that the 2000i despite its name outputs 1600 watts continuous (2000 max for a very short time). The point I am making is don't buy either the Honda or Yamaha 1000 gensets if you have a 50 amp charger. The maximum I would try is a 40 amp charger and even then I would check out the actual efficiency and initial inrush current rating and then I would leave at least another 10% margin.
 
Jun 4, 2004
629
Sailboat - 48N x 89W
inrush

Inrush Current is the peak AC current that flows into a battery charger or power supply during the initial period AC power is applied. This peak is greater than the normal operating current, unless the charger has current limiting (“soft start”) technology (many do). Older Ferro-Ressonant chargers also suffer from "magnetizing losses".
 

scuba1

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Jan 26, 2005
2
- - jacksonville
some one answer the question

im conufused can some one tell me just the size he needs please
 
Feb 18, 2004
184
Catalina 36mkII Kincardine - Lake Huron
The size

It is really up to him what size he needs as it depends exactly on how he is going to use the power and where. What the posts are doing is defining limits that he might work in. I do identify with his wish to go off and be completely independent of shore facilities. Now the answer. He has small batteries and light needs (as long as he doesn't fire up that 1500 watt inverter at full blast). If he does not change to larger batteries and wants to maintain complete freedom then for his size of boat and existing batteries the largest battery charger he should get is a 30 amp charger (20 amps is probably more than enough - however if he has the Honda or Yamaha 1000 he has the capability to run a 30 amp charger). A larger charger is potentially a problem as I stated earlier. He might be able to use a 40 amp charger but as I said earlier I would be really careful about what the startup demands were for the specific charger. The Honda/Yamaha series of gensets have limited ability to provide high 'in rush' current and some chargers don't have a soft start. Now my philosophy on answering questions. When I get an answer to a question I prefer to get background and information that lets me make my own decision. Gord is great at providing information so I really like his posts. I don't like giving a specific answer as in this forum you have to assume a lot of things - My philosophy in an answer is that it is better to understand why something needs to be done than be told to do something.
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
To William

William Your degree is in electronics so we can communicate on the same wavelength. I might venture to say that, with due respect to the other contributors, much of the advice given to date is questionable. If you have a 120 V AC generator feeding a charger transformer primary which, in turn has a secondary winding feeding a bridge rectifier, then there will be no current flow until the secondary voltage reaches 16 volts (14.4 V battery + 1.6 V diode bridge forward drop). At this point the battery series resistance will be very low and effectively provide a short circuit on the transformer and alternator. The current will only be limited by the impedance of the transformer,rectifier,wiring,generator and battery. The nominal output voltage on the secondary will need to be between 18 & 20 V RMS. The effect of these very high current peaks at two per cycle will give rise to an excessive RMS current value. As you know the RMS is the heating value so things will get much hotter than with a normal resistive load of equivalent power. Alternators are usually protected by thermal circuit breakers for this very reason and thus the alternator does not get fried because the breaker trips out. If you have the opportunity, put a scope across a 100 amp shunt in series and look at the waveform. You will be surprised at the peak values - and the lousy waveform! Unless you take these impedances into account - and also know the impedance of your battery, you will not be able to calculate the transformer rectifier power ratings you need, nor will the rating of the alternator be relevant. Your concept of ball parking is as good an approach as any and would lead you to look for a margin of about 30% to cover all eventualities. Yes I have designed and had built several high power battery chargers (up to 500 amps) in my industrial career - so "I have been there and done that as you request". Didn't get the tee shirt though. Regards, Don Alexander. PS:- Virtually the same situation arises with switching mode devices.
 
Jun 17, 2004
132
- - pueblo, co
thanks all!

donalex, i do understand what you are saying. along with having an understanding of efficiencies, surges, and losses across the system. (tho i would have to actually look-up the formulas). my MO as you rightly assumed is not to overcomplicate the problem. i can think and plan forever or simply overestimate/overbuild knowing i am not going to get, or hopefully need rated values by 25-30%. (RMS=.707 of peak isn't it?) everyone has allot of very useful info and i simply take ideas and experiences and work to a worst case scenerio and then apply max conservation. (i actually do agree w/ those that think a P audit is in order...i do that first and live by it so no offence taken). i have cut and pasted all this thread into a word document for future reference. i don't trust my notebook either to not die when i need it most so besides a cd i have a ring notebook w/ hard copy....in plastic sleeves :D. again, thanks to all...even those that think i am a bit eccentric, (i agree), for needing, or actually wanting, this kind of capability. better to have and not need than to need and not have! yes, my independence is a personal thing. i have no real access to shore power and pulling the boat or batteries regularly to charge them is something i would prefer not to do for multiple reasons. and sailing marina to marina hoping to find and get gouged for a transient berth isn't my idea of independence. i don't use much power truly but its there if i need it and/or i am away from port, vehicle, or sunshine. i would like a motor w/ an alternator but it is weight prohibitave on my 23' (and 5-6W is about all they put out)....my small solar does that. really, here's the tentavive plan. 80-100W solar via a charge controler. about a 30W charger. (marine or not probably doesn't matter except for enviromental concerns if i switch it through the same charge controler since the controler handles the V peak). and possibly a Yamaha 1000W back-up. yes, this is overkill for my boat right now. except for the small output Yamaha but weight and size too are considerations. but hopefully, when i move to a bigger boat the good stuff will go with me. regards~ william btw: i'm about to order new rigging too....one size larger!
 

p323ms

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May 24, 2004
341
Pearson 323 panama city
make that 5-6 amps

The generators on small outboards put out 5-6 amps!!! At 12 volts that's 60-72 watts!!! Tom
 
Jun 17, 2004
132
- - pueblo, co
you are quite correct

my mistake. the 2004 merc manual shows a merc 6, 4 stroke at 4A, (50W lighting), or 2A, (25W charging). and the weight is acceptable....55lb. (although i'm sure the long shaft weighs a bit more). it takes a 9.9 to get 6W tho and 133 lb for the long shaft is too much.
 
Jun 4, 2004
629
Sailboat - 48N x 89W
4A Un-Regulated

The 4A LIGHTING rating is a totally un-regulated output. The 2A CHARGING rating has a simple regulater. FWIW
 

p323ms

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May 24, 2004
341
Pearson 323 panama city
Tohatsu 5hp 4 stroke 55#s 5Amps

But for the extra power a 8 HP would be better on your boat. A Tohatsu 8 weighs 81.5 pounds and has a 6 amp charger. I had a Honda 7.5 on my Mac 26D and it seemed to be about the right amount of power. Overkill in flat calm water but the few times I had to buck a strong headwind and chop the extra power came in handy. Generally I sail when there is wind. Sometimes in a narrow channel when things are getting rough tacking is not an option. Of course a 6 amp charger on an outboard is not going to provide a lot of amp hours but if you are close to meeting your energy budget it could make the difference. When cruising we usually end up motoring an hour or two a day. Some days at some anchorages we'll drop the hook under sail and then sail away without starting the motor. But usually we have to motor into an anchorage and motor out. I'm very reluctant to sail into a new anchorage especially when there is shallow water and other boats close to where I want to drop the hook. Our marina is about 2 miles up a narrow bayou. On rare days the wind is right and we can sail in or out but usually it's not right for sailing. Tom
 
Jun 17, 2004
132
- - pueblo, co
its something worth thinking about

i'll have to get the data on the tohatsu/nissans. my reason for choosing an OVERPRICED merc is parts and dealer availability....although there is precious little i can't actually fix myself on an engine. this and a reasonable solar system could be a viable option. (although cost wise probably more $ for less charging....but greater simplicuty...a big + in my book!). one thing i was shying away from is excess weight on the transom. it would require a new, beefed-up motor mount too as i really don't trust the oem hunter mount to handle much more than whats already there. i too motor in tight places as it is just plain easier and safer imho and running a motor at idle for an hour or 2 if batteries were low is about as easy as a generator. however....there is no free lunch. that extra charging/alternator power is power that is not going to the prop.
 
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