Gel coat superficial scratches -not too deep not too shallow

Nov 23, 2018
29
Schock Harbor 25 Los Angeles
Hi I have a dark blue gel coat on my sailboat. The inflatable dinghy tied up alongside left scratches. They are too deep to remove with rubbing compound but seem to superficial still to have to do a major Gelcoat repair I’m not handy with this stuff but is wet sanding alone an option? Scared to do this and really appreciate any suggestions ..
 

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Jan 11, 2014
13,011
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Wet sanding will take out some the smaller shallower blemishes, but not the deeper ones. Wet sanding works well for removing oxidation. Smaller gelcoat repairs are not that challenging. See the video below from Andy Miller at Boatworks today. Matching colors is much more challenging especially with darker colors that have faded some over time. To start, polish a section of the boat, perhaps wet sanding first to get close to the original color. There are color cards that can be used to match the color or do it by eye.

 
Sep 25, 2008
7,460
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
We have a similar color topsides gelcoat and way too much experience buffing out gelcoat scratches. While doing so on a painted hull is problematic, light gelcoat abrasion can be fixed with prudent polishing using a lightly abrasive polishing compound. If inexperienced, I’d start with trying by hand vs. a machine as you obviously don’t want to be too aggressive. if, however, you already tried rubbing compound and it was ineffective, wet sanding seems like your last resort. Slowly!
 
Nov 23, 2018
29
Schock Harbor 25 Los Angeles
Thank you so much for the reply.. I know this is a dumb question but since it’s not a discrete area that can be masked off what happens to the adjacent good Gelcoat as I’m sanding this? Also do I do an x-pattern and what do you advise to use for wax and polish after I’ve sanded this? I’ve never done DIY so really appreciate your insight
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,460
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Thank you so much for the reply.. I know this is a dumb question but since it’s not a discrete area that can be masked off what happens to the adjacent good Gelcoat as I’m sanding this? Also do I do an x-pattern and what do you advise to use for wax and polish after I’ve sanded this? I’ve never done DIY so really appreciate your insight
Everyone who has done this has their own favorite method and materials.

having said that, wet sanding with 300 or 2000 grit would be my last resort and only if polishing was ineffective. But before sanding, I’d suggest you try different polishing (not rubbing) compounds with varied aggressive components. Not all polishing compounds are equivalent. It’s trial and (hopefully no ) error.
The two I’ve used in the past are 3M and Collonite. You will find when searching their specs they both have a variety of compounds.

No worries about confining the work area as you want to “blend in” the repair. In fact, masking off will serve to amplify the repair area.
 
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Jan 11, 2014
13,011
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Collinite and the 3m products are really popular. TotalBoat.com has TotalBuff which is also a good product. I've used all three.
 
Aug 2, 2009
651
Catalina 315 Muskegon
I generally have to answer by saying, "if it was my boat".

I'd do the whole damn topsides. Assuming that's blue gelcoat, and not paint, and assuming as you say, the damage is fairly superficial, I'd go through the whole process.

Absolutely wet sand it. By hand. You may be down to 220, then 400, 600 800, 1500, followed by rubbing compound, followed by polishing compound. The trick will be keeping your topsides fair, as you need to remove scratches from that one area, not the entire topsides. You can't work aggressively on a single scratch or bad area, you need to do the entire compromised area with 220, and blend that into the surrounding area. Otherwise, when you're done that SHINY dark blue is going to look rippled.

Depending on the condition of the rest of the topsides, you may be only using rubbing compound there, but I wouldn't rule out 600 or 400 without seeing it. Yes, you could go directly to compounding, but you're likely to be compounding the scratches, not eliminating them, and if you don't get the underlying scratches with wet sanding, no amount of compounding is ever going to get you the kind of shine...my boat has.
I've done a few boats following MaineSail's instructions: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax
He can take you through the process of using the correct materials, the right tools, the right pads for compound and polish, and proper use of the right tools. You can skip all the steps you want, but if you want your topsides to have the shine they had when they were new, do it his way. Also, the smoother and shinier you get them, the longer your shine will last. If you do it right, you'll be able to hold your watch several feet away from the topsides and easily tell the time by the reflection in the gelcoat. And, that's BEFORE you apply wax. You'll find that it's so shiny, the wax provides no additional shine, just protection.

If you decided to simply compound and polish, you won't be doing any harm. You'll get it looking better, and the shine that you get, if you compound and polish correctly, will be fairly long lasting. It just won't look as good close up, and if you're not satisfied with it, at least you haven't done it any harm.

The only way I see harm being done, is if you wet sand the bad area, and don't take care to blend it in with the surrounding area. That'll be a tough fix.

If you decide to use the Mainesail approach, you'll find it's a bit of a daunting read, as he packs a LOT of info into his article. For me, it took a little studying, but everything you need to know is there.

Once you know the methods, you know them for life. And the only downside of that is as you walk through the marina and see people working on their topsides, you have to learn to not walk up to them and say, 'you're doing it wrong'.
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,143
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Having used both brands, I like Presta products over 3M. Presta is sold by auto paint finishing shops. They have Super Cut and a lighter cutting product. I have been very successful removing fender rash damage from gel coat. I use a rotating power buffer with a 3M wool bonnet.