Under the aft quarter berth on my 1983 30 there's a gate/thru hull valve just starboard of the fuel tank with a red valve handle. A black hose runs from it to port, then "disappears" forward. Is this thru hull an intake or output gate
Gate valve question
- Thread starter AADIVER
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Typically a smaller 1" diameter hose is an intake and a larger 2" or so hose is an outlet.
You should replace ALL gate valves at your next haulout, as they will fail at some unfortunate time and you won't know if it's open or closed or something in-between.
You should also trace that hose to it's terminus, as well as all other hoses, so that you know what's at risk when a hose/clamp leaks or a valve fails.
You should replace ALL gate valves at your next haulout, as they will fail at some unfortunate time and you won't know if it's open or closed or something in-between.
You should also trace that hose to it's terminus, as well as all other hoses, so that you know what's at risk when a hose/clamp leaks or a valve fails.
AA,
Ggrizzard is correct in that you SHOULD replace all your thru hull gate valves. I've designed piping systems as a career and there are inherent problems with gate valves. They are not known as positive shutoff valves in the industry and only used in proper applications & never as a an isolation control valve.
They will leak from their bonnet packing over time. The bigger problem is that many of the earlier boats have non-rising stems. Yoy don't see the handle rise when opening them. Also the materials used when combined with salt water will corrode. If you snap the stem, the valve will be stuck in that position. Not a good case if you can't shut off flow when needed.
I am not a lover of bronze & saltwater. Bronze being a noble metal, it will corrode from chemical reaction and/or electrolysis over time. They make Marlon ball valves which don't allow for barnacle growth(if in saltwater). The molded bodies are of a heavy weight design and plenty sturdy.
Hope this helps pal.
CR
Ggrizzard is correct in that you SHOULD replace all your thru hull gate valves. I've designed piping systems as a career and there are inherent problems with gate valves. They are not known as positive shutoff valves in the industry and only used in proper applications & never as a an isolation control valve.
They will leak from their bonnet packing over time. The bigger problem is that many of the earlier boats have non-rising stems. Yoy don't see the handle rise when opening them. Also the materials used when combined with salt water will corrode. If you snap the stem, the valve will be stuck in that position. Not a good case if you can't shut off flow when needed.
I am not a lover of bronze & saltwater. Bronze being a noble metal, it will corrode from chemical reaction and/or electrolysis over time. They make Marlon ball valves which don't allow for barnacle growth(if in saltwater). The molded bodies are of a heavy weight design and plenty sturdy.
Hope this helps pal.
CR
hull valve just starboard of the fuel tank
I have a valve just aft of the fuel tank on starboard side. It's my air conditioner water-in source. It heads towards the Port cockpit storage area where my compressor was factory installed.Under the aft quarter berth on my 1983 30 there's a gate/thru hull valve just starboard of the fuel tank with a red valve handle. A black hose runs from it to port, then "disappears" forward. Is this thru hull an intake or output gate
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