I have on my list of things to do on my next scheduled pull out, to change out the gate valves under the sink in the head. All suggestions appreciated. (I sail a 1987 Hunter 31) Thanks
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Ball valves
I don't think that I am alone but all tru hull "gate" valves should be replaced with "ball" valves. The reason for this is that dirt or other impediments can get into the gate valve and stop it from being watertight. Of course this would only happen at the worst possible time, like when you really need to close the valve tight!
I don't think that I am alone but all tru hull "gate" valves should be replaced with "ball" valves. The reason for this is that dirt or other impediments can get into the gate valve and stop it from being watertight. Of course this would only happen at the worst possible time, like when you really need to close the valve tight!
Watch the position of the handles.
Frank: All I can tell you is to watch the position of the position of the handles so they do not interfer with each other. The raw water intake and the tank discharge are very close to each other and can interfer. You may also consider putting a ball valve on the sink discharge. This hose is above the water line but I would add one here too. Mine does not have one. If the thru hull fitting would ever fail while on a long passage, there could a lot of water comming into the boat and no practical way to plug the leak. Another thing. What are you going to use for backers for the valves? I have been thinking (big mistake) about using poly board instead of the usual plywood pieces. I have not heard if this is a good idea or not!
Frank: All I can tell you is to watch the position of the position of the handles so they do not interfer with each other. The raw water intake and the tank discharge are very close to each other and can interfer. You may also consider putting a ball valve on the sink discharge. This hose is above the water line but I would add one here too. Mine does not have one. If the thru hull fitting would ever fail while on a long passage, there could a lot of water comming into the boat and no practical way to plug the leak. Another thing. What are you going to use for backers for the valves? I have been thinking (big mistake) about using poly board instead of the usual plywood pieces. I have not heard if this is a good idea or not!
Hope that is the end of your gate valves.
Frank: I hope that this is the end of the gate valves on your boat. These ball valves are just not that expensive. The one under the galley sink and the engine raw water valves are the other two. I must assume that you have already changed these!?
Frank: I hope that this is the end of the gate valves on your boat. These ball valves are just not that expensive. The one under the galley sink and the engine raw water valves are the other two. I must assume that you have already changed these!?
Thanks for the Help
Steve, Thanks for the suggestions. By the time I've changed all of the valves, replaced the dining table, and put new sails on board it should be ready to trade in on the boat my wife wants.
Steve, Thanks for the suggestions. By the time I've changed all of the valves, replaced the dining table, and put new sails on board it should be ready to trade in on the boat my wife wants.
Tell to be careful what SHE wishes for.....
Frank: BBS (big boat syndrome), we all get it, but be careful what you wish for.
Frank: BBS (big boat syndrome), we all get it, but be careful what you wish for.
OK, guys... now for cheapie... me....
I was talking to one of the riggers last week, he said why did I not go to HOME DEPOT to purchace the ball valve units...!!!!!! Gee, that sounds like... well, maybe I should have my head examined?!? WEll, Guess what... Home Depot sells Bronze unit with S.S. valves. So, my guestion is, should I use these or spend the extra 50% for ones from the marine store??? Has anyone used these with good results? Anyway, moving thur the projects and she's going to live on, hull in good shape, drying out and getting ready to barrier coat again. Hope it works this time.
I was talking to one of the riggers last week, he said why did I not go to HOME DEPOT to purchace the ball valve units...!!!!!! Gee, that sounds like... well, maybe I should have my head examined?!? WEll, Guess what... Home Depot sells Bronze unit with S.S. valves. So, my guestion is, should I use these or spend the extra 50% for ones from the marine store??? Has anyone used these with good results? Anyway, moving thur the projects and she's going to live on, hull in good shape, drying out and getting ready to barrier coat again. Hope it works this time.
Valves
If you are going to use stainless steel ball valves I would recommend you purchase ones with teflon as they do not require lubrication maintenance. Also, look for the ones with stainless steel handles.
If you are going to use stainless steel ball valves I would recommend you purchase ones with teflon as they do not require lubrication maintenance. Also, look for the ones with stainless steel handles.
Replacement
If the valves are the originals like mine were, May I suggest using a reciprical saw with a metal cutting blade to simply cut the valve in half, (remove the gate first) then use a right angle grinder to cut the nut for the thru hull fitting, makes the job several hours shorter, with no busted knuckles. Good luck!
If the valves are the originals like mine were, May I suggest using a reciprical saw with a metal cutting blade to simply cut the valve in half, (remove the gate first) then use a right angle grinder to cut the nut for the thru hull fitting, makes the job several hours shorter, with no busted knuckles. Good luck!
Seacocks at Home Depot?
Never heard of such a thing. Are you sure they are seacocks and not just in-line ball valves? Home Depot in my area sells in-line ball valves - standard plumbing stuff - but not seacocks. There is a big difference between the two. Namely the threads. In-line ball valves have tapered threads, seacocks and the thru-hulls they screw on to do not. Screwing a taper threaded in-line valve onto a straight threaded thru-hull is DANGEROUS as you are gripping the two parts together by only a precious few threads which are then prone to sudden failure. If you have made this mistake, then get rid of the in-line valves asap. Also, a seacock will have a flange at it's base with holes drilled through for securing the seacock to the hull and/or a wood pad to prevent turning. Bottom line: Use only USDA Grade A seacocks. Anything less may cost you the boat.
Never heard of such a thing. Are you sure they are seacocks and not just in-line ball valves? Home Depot in my area sells in-line ball valves - standard plumbing stuff - but not seacocks. There is a big difference between the two. Namely the threads. In-line ball valves have tapered threads, seacocks and the thru-hulls they screw on to do not. Screwing a taper threaded in-line valve onto a straight threaded thru-hull is DANGEROUS as you are gripping the two parts together by only a precious few threads which are then prone to sudden failure. If you have made this mistake, then get rid of the in-line valves asap. Also, a seacock will have a flange at it's base with holes drilled through for securing the seacock to the hull and/or a wood pad to prevent turning. Bottom line: Use only USDA Grade A seacocks. Anything less may cost you the boat.
Rebed thru-hulls while you're at it
Sorry to add to the work list, but when I replaced my gate seacocks, I noted that the thru-hulls shifted some while putting the wrench to the old gates. So I removed the thru-hulls too. Ultimately I decided to replace the thru-hulls, but there should be no problem cleaning/re-using a thru-hull whose threads are in good condition. The idea here was that if the thru-hulls moved the putty seal was broken and they might leak when the boat went back in the water. Mike
Sorry to add to the work list, but when I replaced my gate seacocks, I noted that the thru-hulls shifted some while putting the wrench to the old gates. So I removed the thru-hulls too. Ultimately I decided to replace the thru-hulls, but there should be no problem cleaning/re-using a thru-hull whose threads are in good condition. The idea here was that if the thru-hulls moved the putty seal was broken and they might leak when the boat went back in the water. Mike
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