gas tank location

[walt]

Ive never really found a good place to keep the gas tank on a 26C but have made somewhat of a compromise that seems OK. I put the tank on the seat across from where you sit if your motoring. I used a smaller plastic 3 gallon tank and made a cradle for the tank out of polyester resin and glass matt using the tank as a mold. The cradle is glued to the seat and has drain holes. This seat location seemed to never get used as you have to sit more forward to run the tiller and if the motor is running, someone sitting here would be in the way of the tiller. I plan to keep a separate identical tank (or two) in the lazerette. I "believe" (but am not sure) that if the spare tank in the lazerette has the vent closed, that it should overall be cautiously safe. I had the tank sitting on the floor in the rear of the cockpit but it gets in the way of your feet and also blocks the drain and my lazerette is already full of junk like anchors, ropes, fenders, ect.

 

[Robspan]

Outboard Bracket

My motor is on a fixed bracket, which gives enough room in the outboard well to fit a 3 gallon tank. Of course, that means that I have to stretch waaaay back to shift gears or steer. I guess you just have to pick your poison.

 

[Justin_NSA]

mrBill

How well does that solar vent work? Is it only at night when it (obviously) isn't working that you smell fumes? I have the IdaSailor post riser and tiller so I don't expaect an interference problem.Has anyone foamed or blocked the passage from the laz to the cabin to keep out fumes?

 

[Gregg9020]

I made a fuel locker that looks

like a bos at the end of the cockpit. It has a lid and a front. If I can find the pics I will send it to you. It is really easy to make.

 

[MrBill_FLL]

solar vents - fair

the vents were installed by the PO, (perko?) and I'd not do them again.Both the bow and laz hatches have them.. they do move some air, but are not enough to stop mold in FLA. (I run a 110v fan, 24/7 at the house). --but for your area this may be sufficent ?I have foamed the sides of the laz to try and seal off the fumes... I could do better I guess...the 'bridge' I made out of plywood and epoxy is crude, but works very well. I stand on it when motoring and steer w/ my legs...I'll probably redo that, and add some more 'bridges' to cover the pit, so I can sleep in the cockpit (1 large surface).. (on my 'do list)someone has 'portable' gas tanks, with drilled and tapped vents that lead to the outside... had I do redo this, I'd do that.

 

[Paul Brinkley]

Walt, I went the other way...

I built up a flat floor that covers most of the lazerette floor, and covered it with fiberglass. I reworked the drain plumbing to get it against the bulkhead and port side, and added a tee on top of it for a bilge pump drain. The bilge pump is under the center of the built-up floor, next to the bulkhead. I strapped an 18-gal plastic tank to the floor in the center of the boat, long way run fore and aft. Put the fill and vent in the side of the motor well. Mounted a 3" blower in the starboard aft corner of the hatch opening, with flexible duct running down to the bottom of the compartment. Cut a matching hole in the lazerette hatch and covered it with a homemade FRP vent hood. When the hatch is closed, the hatch hole seals against the top of the blower. Drilled three 2" holes in the bulkhead between the seats, about 2/3 of the way up; attached another homemade FRP scoop over those for an air inlet. Added a wood strip on the starboard side and stern, attached to the hull joint bolts; the wood strips have big hooks screwed into them to hold dock lines and all kind of extra lines. A 7-gal plastic bucket holds my rode; the anchor hangs on hooks on the bulkhead with the shaft hanging down into the rode bucket. And there is still a heck of a lot of storage space left in the lazerette. I'm still rewiring the boat, so I haven't foamed all of the cracks between the cabin and lazerette yet. Lot of work, but my storage will be better organized than previously. I don't plan on hauling that much gas- just a few gallons, unless I go on a very long trip, but the capacity is always there if I need it.

 

[Gregg9020]

I know it is a little off subject............

but I thought I would add to the project list a bit. I have used it on a lake that is filled with the west nile virus and I slept great. We onlt had one little critter in in the morning. I spray the entire thing with Off before I hit the hay, and no bites. I think it is a great addition to the overnight raft ups.I used 1/4" plywood and cut the openings ans painted. I stapled the screen from the back and wala an open air cabin without the bugs. Every boat needs one...........John (oreana) what do you think???? Pretty good Huh?Gregg

 

[Timo42]

Gregg

Nice work, now you need to add a screen for the head, might get a little drafty where you have it ;D tim

 

[MrBill_FLL]

elegant solution!

Now theres a nice project! (how many hours and dollars do you think you have in that?)FWIW, I found a post on the dual portable fuel tanks:http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/macgregor/index.cgi/read/35597

 

[beamreach]

cost?

Had some old polyester resin, glass cloth, scrap plywood. I think a quart of gelcoat was maybe $15. The lockdown latch was in a lot of saved junk off a previous boat. Labor is cheap since I don't charge myself anything.

 

[bio]

the previous owner of my boat

put a 10 gallon tank in the aft large compartment below decks. I have heardof powerful power boats not venting fumes and blowing...is there a significant hazard for my boats setup? He put a hose from the tank to the outside of boat...is this both a vent and o2 supplier?

 

[Paul Brinkley]

Bio- you got it. However,

the compartment itself should be vented. On my 26S, I have one vent in the bulkhead between the lazarette and the cockpit that acts as a scoop. I have another in the hatch of the lazarette open aft to act as an exhaust. I also have a 3" blower in the duct which goes from the exhaust vent to the bottom of the compartment (so that the any gas fumes which collect down there will be sucked out). With the gas fill and tank vent outside the boat, there should be no fumes in the lazarette. However, I had rather play it safe. When under way, natural ventilation should keep the lazarette clear. If there's no wind, and the boat has been sitting a while, a few minutes of blower should clear things up. This setup, I believe, exceeds Coast Guard requirements.Fair winds...

 

[Vitger]

Would you mind posting pics of your setup

I think I got it, but more pics never hurt...My PO installed no vents at all but put the gas tanks in there with the battery. This thread made me shiver... Thanks guys!

 

[Chris & Lenore]

Comments on tank location

Teliki has a 10 gallon tank in the rear locker.I added a vent line to the tank which exits in the motor well.There is also a large clamshell intake (over a 3 inch fitting with bug screen) mounted on the locker cover and facing forward. A second clamshell in the side of the motor well is the exit. It has 3 inch hose ducting it to the bottom of the locker to scavenge fumes. The line also has a powered bilge blower in it.I still do not feel safe with this setup - and I don't think it meets Coast Guard rules. I believe the tank needs to be one designed for below deck mounting plus the vents need to be larger and within specific heights relative to the tank and waterline. Plus the compartment itself needs to be separated from the cabin area so fumes cannot enter.I always perform a "sniff test" when the locker cover is open - basic procedure for power boats.That all said - I have never heard of a Mac blowing up and given the "visibility" our boats seem to have I'm sure it would be all over the web.Chris

 

[Blake]

bcassel

What fittings did you use for venting, and how did you fix them to the tank?

 

[Timo42]

I started to build my cover today

cut and shaped the teak cleats, drilled the holes and made the backing plates for the cleats. Think I'll add cupholders and a pocket for the winch handle while I am at it. Tim

 

[Paul Brinkley]

Tanks in the lazarette

The excerpt below is from the USCG Boating Safety booklet:===========================VentilationAll boats which use gasoline for electrical generation, mechanical power or propulsion are required to be equipped with a ventilation system. A natural ventilation system is required for each compartment in a boat that: 1. contains a permanently installed gasoline engine;  2. has openings between it and a compartment that requires ventilation;  3. contains a permanently installed fuel tank and an electrical component  that is not ignition-protected;  4. contains a fuel tank that vents into that compartment (including a  portable tank); and  5. contains a non-metallic fuel tank. A natural ventilation system consists of:  - A supply opening (duct/cowl) from the atmosphere (located on the exterior surface of the boat) or from a ventilated compartment or from a compartment that is open to the atmosphere;  - and an exhaust opening into another ventilated compartment or an exhaust duct to the atmosphere. All blower motors installed in exhaust ducts must be in working condition of date of manufacture. Each exhaust opening or exhaust duct must originate in the lower one-third of the compartment. Each supply opening or supply duct and each exhaust opening or duct in a compartment must be above the normal accumulation of bilge water. A powered ventilation system is required for each compartment in a boat that has a permanently installed gasoline engine with a cranking motor for remote starting. A powered ventilation system consists of one or more exhaust blowers. Each intake duct for an exhaust blower must be in the lower one-third of the compartment and above the normal accumulation of bilge water. For boats built prior to 1980, there was no requirement for a powered ventilation system; however, some boats were equipped with a blower. The Coast Guard Ventilation Standard, a manufacturer requirement, applies to all boats built on or after August 1, 1980. Some builders began manufacturing boats in compliance with the Ventilation Standard as early as August 1978. If your boat was built on or after August 1, 1978 it might have been equipped with either (1) a natural ventilation system, or (2) both a natural ventilation system and a powered ventilation system. If your boat bears a label containing the words "This boat complies with U.S. Coast Guard safety standards," etc., you can assume that the design of your boat's ventilation system meets applicable regulations.Manufacturers of boats built after 1980 with remote starters are required to display a label which contains the following information: Warning: Gasoline vapors can explode. Before starting engine, operate blower at least 4 minutes and check engine compartment bilge for gasoline vapors. All owners are responsible for keeping their boat's ventilation systems in operating condition. This means making sure openings are free of obstructions, ducts are not blocked or torn, blowers operate properly, and worn components are replaced with equivalent marine type equipment. ===========================As I read it, a compartment (such as a 26C lazarette) with any kind of gas tank must have at least a natural ventilation system consisting of an inlet and an exhaust, with the exhaust ducted from the lower 1/3 of the compartment. Blower is optional. You are only required to have a powered system if you have an engine in the compartment. However, I had rather play it safe. -Paul

 

[Chris & Lenore]

Need to seal off the aft locker on a 26 C or D

I believe the aft locker would have to be sealed off from the cabin in order to comply. I don't have the spec handy but I remember reading that the cabin (crew area) could not be used to satisfy the supply criteria of "a vented compartment". One of my spring projects is to close off the aft locker of Teliki. Currently our tank is vented externally (brass screw to 3/8 barbed fitting mounted on tank high point - plastic tapped plus backing nut and sealant) plus we have 3 inch inlet and exhaust vents with clam shells and blower.What have other people done to close off the aft locker from the cabin?Chris

 

[Paul Brinkley]

Chris, sealing the lazarette...

... should not be a difficult job. One aerosol can of polyurethane foam should be more than enough. You can cut a couple of pieces of most anything (scap fiberglass panel, or formica, or any kind of stiff plastic, or even 1/4" plywood) to fit in the upper corners on each side of the boat, and foam it in place. Also foam around where the cockpit drain comes through the bulkhead to the lazarette. If there are cracks between the two layers of the bulkhead, it would probably be easier and less messy just to run a bead of caulk along the joint. Why use the foam? It will bond to pretty nearly anything, expand to fill any voids, but if you need to redo some wiring, or make an opening for anything else, you can cut it with a pocket knife. Haven't done mine yet, but the can of foam is sitting in the lazarette.I did not find anything in the USCG info or my state's (NC) boat safety info that prohibited the use of a vented passenger compartment being used to supply air to the lazarette. Obviously, you wouldn't want to exhaust the lazarette into the cabin. However, I would prefer it to be sealed off completely to prevent any chance of gas fumes in the cabin. The USCG apparently also will permit a portable tank vented in the lazarette, as long as the compartment is properly vented. Again, I had rather not have any fumes in there to begin with, so my tank vent is outside the boat.

 

[walt]

passive vent locations

I'm wondering where are good passive vent hole locations for the supply opening and the exhaust opening. I would assume the best locations are aligned with the flow of wind on the boat and assuming this is generally front to back, I guess the supply opening would be on the laz wall in the cockpit area and probably fairly high up - maybe just under the tiller. High up and near center would keep water out of the laz inlet vent in a knockdown which flooded the cockpit floor.For the exhaust vent, maybe it should go on the aft end of the boat. I believe staying in the lower 1/3 height of the laz would still keep the vent significantly above the water line and the vent should also probably be near the center of the boat so that extreme heeling either way would be less likely to let water enter the exhaust vent. What is the size these passive vent holes need to be?