Garhauer EZ Slide Genoa Car Control Line Set-Up

[jmce1587]

looking for info on running control lines. Info recommended diameters, 5/16 vs 3/8, suggested lengths (do they need to be the full length of track) and in particular the set up for the line from the adjustable car to the cam cleat. Have read about using bungee cord and adding a small block at end of adjustable car. Pics woul be appreciated. Thanks, Jerry

 

[Rick D]

I don't have a photo, but I suggest you use some cheap hardware line to rig the car and see how much you need for a full range of travel. I think 5/16 would be adequate for your use. As for the return line, I found using shock cord unsatisfactory. When running with a pole, I will bring the car all the way aft. A shock cord doesn't have the range. I ran a 1/4 line to a small block on the bail on the aft of the track and then to a jam block. That way I can just pull the car aft when making large adjustments. Have fun!

 

[Parkercr]

I replaced my genoa cars and track with Garhauer EZ slide last year. Make sure you use Garhauer track! The track width rail blade dimensions are critical, not just any track will work. I may have a photo of our boat rigging. I used 5/16 line for control lines.
Be very careful when mating the track and the new cars, only remove the tape from the correct end and carefully roll the car into position. Otherwise you could lose the bearings. Once the car is safely on the track, place some tape front and back of the car so it will remain in position while you place you track endcaps.

 

[Jackdaw]

If you want the shock cord to help over the entire range of the track you need make it longer, so it's not at regular length at the aft end of the track. Start the cord aft and go fore and aft, turning again to go forward with the car. That will do it.

 

[Parkercr]

Actually the bungee cord just didn't work well for me, probably because the P&S tracks on my boat are 10 ft. in length. I pretty well use every rigging trick before I decided to use the same 5/16 line with cam cleats. I have since armor plated with thin stainless plates to stop potential gelcoat erosion on all four locations. Seems to work. The bungee might work well with shorter track. I also added position numerals along the track for reference points.

 

[Joe]

You should have clips on both ends of the bungee cord... that way you can reset it at will.. and also remove when not using so you get more than a few weeks use.
I used to double my very long bungee through a block at rear... ends clipped up front to car and stanchion... but I realized that the amount of actual movement required for each sail is limited... so I shortened the cord and put it under a lot of tension... but reset it depending on the sail I have rigged.

If your sheet runs from the car directly to the winch on any kind of an upward angle.... it will be impossible for a bungee to pull the car back wards. The sheet needs to run low right above the track after it leaves the car...then to a turning block up to the winch.

 

[Solstice]

3/8" will work fine and heed the advice to get the track measurements to Garhauer aboslutely correct. No need for a bungee cord if you use the control line as a continuous line. The pressure of the wind will allow the car to move aft on it's own. If you tie the bitter end back to the aft car, it's easy to control.

 

[Joe]

It's either 1" T track, or 1 1/4" T track. T track is the most common. Harken's track is proprietary.. won't work with Garhauer... or any other non Harken gear.

 

[Rick D]

3/8" will work fine and heed the advice to get the track measurements to Garhauer aboslutely correct. No need for a bungee cord if you use the control line as a continuous line. The pressure of the wind will allow the car to move aft on it's own. If you tie the bitter end back to the aft car, it's easy to control.

However, they will custom machine to your track. They did for me.