Galley Sink Drain

Coyote

Coyote

.
Sep 30, 2008
132
Hunter 30T Madeira Beach, Florida
I was working with my 6'4" frame in the VERY tight under sink cabinet correcting a small leak in the water supply hose,,,
I noticed when I opened the valve to drain the contents of the sink, that there was a bit of movement in the drain/valve assembly,,
where I believe there is a thru-hull, the drain is mounted on what appears to be OLD plywood that has turned into fiber,,,
what could this material be,,, the is NO LEAK around the fittings,,
just concerned,,, the other thru hulls in the boat seem to be mounted in plastic, polyethylene ?(similar to a cutting board), and in excellent shape,,
any idea what was used,,, and do we need to address this issue,,

cheers,
Coyote
 
jibes138

jibes138

.
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Yes you need to address it. I am doing similar work right now. O'Day used plywood for backing plates for their through hulls. Over time they get damp and rot and no longer provide the proper support for the through hull and the force of opening the valves. You will need to pull the valve and likely the through hull, remove the rotted wood and use G10 fiberglass to make a new backing plate. Go to the compass marine web site and there are instructions with photos in a step by step format. If the seal around the through hull fails you have the potential to sink so make sure you do this correctly.
 
Coyote

Coyote

.
Sep 30, 2008
132
Hunter 30T Madeira Beach, Florida
Great,,, Thanks,,, STUPID question, do I have to pull the boat out of the water to accomplish this???

thanks,,
 
jibes138

jibes138

.
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Yes. You could possibly put a cork in the through hull from outside the boat but it would be extremely difficult at best to do it right. Send a picture so we can see what the wood looks like. Ideally if you can get by until you need to paint the bottom that would be the time to fix it when the boat is hauled any way.
 
Coyote

Coyote

.
Sep 30, 2008
132
Hunter 30T Madeira Beach, Florida
I'll be back to the boat in a couple of days and I'll post an image,,,
thanks for your help,,
 
jibes138

jibes138

.
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
I had a b**ch of a time trying to remove the old valves and fittings from my through hulls. Most are in really hard to reach places and you can't get much leverage on pipe wrenches from these weird positions. My solution was to use a Rockwell vibrating tool with a metal cutting blade. I cut right through the through hull threaded section in just a couple minutes. These tools (like a fein multimaster) are miracle tools. They save so much time and effort it is amazing. The through hulls came out easily so they must not have used 5200, the compound was still soft and pliable. For my engine intake strainer I used a pipe wrench on the outside and it unscrewed easily. My head intake came out even easier. I am waiting on some G10 material I ordered from McMaster Carr to arrive to make the backing plates. Maine Sail recommends a big hole saw on a drill press to cut the backin plates. I will use a band saw or a table saw and cut it out so I don't have to buy a drill press. The plywood backing plates are rectangular but I do recognize the sharp corners are stress risers. A trick I learned making a wooden mast: If you cut an octagon with a saw then you can use a belt sander belt to remove the corners by sanding like you are shining your shoes and get a nice almost perfect circle. The amount of material to remove from the corners is really minimal.
Stu, if you are reading this, do you have a clamshell strainer for an engine intake? Mine is only 1/2 inch diameter and they don't make a 1/2 inch seacock or flanged adapter. I am going to drill it out to 3/4 and put in a straight thru hull with a real seacock. Should help the flow a bit and allow me to clean it out easily if necessary. What kind of raw water strainer are you using in your boat? I talked to a guy yesterday that said his strainer restricted his flow enough to cause him to overheat. When he bypassed it by connecting hose directly to engine his trouble disappeared? My boat never had a strainer until I added one a while back (maybe 8 years ago).
 
Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

.
Feb 26, 2004
23,049
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Strainers

jibes138 said:
Stu, if you are reading this, do you have a clamshell strainer for an engine intake? Mine is only 1/2 inch diameter and they don't make a 1/2 inch seacock or flanged adapter. I am going to drill it out to 3/4 and put in a straight thru hull with a real seacock. Should help the flow a bit and allow me to clean it out easily if necessary. What kind of raw water strainer are you using in your boat? I talked to a guy yesterday that said his strainer restricted his flow enough to cause him to overheat. When he bypassed it by connecting hose directly to engine his trouble disappeared? My boat never had a strainer until I added one a while back (maybe 8 years ago).
Click to expand
Dave, nice writeup on how to make rounds from octagons.

Since strainers come up from time to time, I stuck it on my "101 Topics"

Why External Strainers are a Bad Idea 101 (Maine Sail) http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=124964

My INISDE intake has a 1/2" Sherwood plastic strainer that has worked for the past 27 years. Going bigger is always better, within reason. I got comfused by "clamshell strainer"...:)
 
kito

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
jibes138 said:
I had a b**ch of a time trying to remove the old valves and fittings from my through hulls. Most are in really hard to reach places and you can't get much leverage on pipe wrenches from these weird positions. My solution was to use a Rockwell vibrating tool with a metal cutting blade. I cut right through the through hull threaded section in just a couple minutes. These tools (like a fein multimaster) are miracle tools. They save so much time and effort it is amazing. The through hulls came out easily so they must not have used 5200, the compound was still soft and pliable. For my engine intake strainer I used a pipe wrench on the outside and it unscrewed easily. My head intake came out even easier. I am waiting on some G10 material I ordered from McMaster Carr to arrive to make the backing plates. Maine Sail recommends a big hole saw on a drill press to cut the backin plates. I will use a band saw or a table saw and cut it out so I don't have to buy a drill press. The plywood backing plates are rectangular but I do recognize the sharp corners are stress risers. A trick I learned making a wooden mast: If you cut an octagon with a saw then you can use a belt sander belt to remove the corners by sanding like you are shining your shoes and get a nice almost perfect circle. The amount of material to remove from the corners is really minimal.
Stu, if you are reading this, do you have a clamshell strainer for an engine intake? Mine is only 1/2 inch diameter and they don't make a 1/2 inch seacock or flanged adapter. I am going to drill it out to 3/4 and put in a straight thru hull with a real seacock. Should help the flow a bit and allow me to clean it out easily if necessary. What kind of raw water strainer are you using in your boat? I talked to a guy yesterday that said his strainer restricted his flow enough to cause him to overheat. When he bypassed it by connecting hose directly to engine his trouble disappeared? My boat never had a strainer until I added one a while back (maybe 8 years ago).
Click to expand
Agree about the oscillating saw. I am 4 months into my H30 restoration and that $30 tool from Harbor Freight is the most used tool I have. I cut off old gate valves from the bronze thru hulls since a pipe wrench would not turn them. More control than a sabre saw and can be used in limited spaces. An amazing tool. I usually only buy Harbor Freight tools if I feel I wouldn't use the tool that much. After this one shoots craps I will be buying another..only better quality brand name since I use it all the time.
 
eherlihy

eherlihy

.
Aug 17, 2010
330
Oday 35 Barrington
I am chiming in only to say that ALL of the advice in this thread is SPOT ON.
 
Euphoria2011

Euphoria2011

.
May 24, 2011
139
Oday 28 Windmill Harbor Hilton Head, SC
I had the same issue on my holding tank thruhull, here are the repair pics
Before and after pics,

The boatyard did a quick haul where they do the repairs while still in the straps,

ForumRunner_20140501_173247.jpg
 

Attachments

njlarry

njlarry

.
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Euphoria2011 said:
I had the same issue on my holding tank thruhull, here are the repair pics
Before and after pics,

The boatyard did a quick haul where they do the repairs while still in the straps,

View attachment 74877
Click to expand
Thanks for the great pics.
Did the yard use the same backer board or install one of a different material?
Do the bolts go all the way through the hull or just in the backer?
Trying to figure out how to replace a bad ball valve on mine.
 
woodster

woodster

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Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Euphoria2011 said:
I had the same issue on my holding tank thruhull, here are the repair pics
Before and after pics,

The boatyard did a quick haul where they do the repairs while still in the straps,

View attachment 74877
Click to expand
just wondering why only one hose clamp on the new hose i thought there were to be 2 clamps below the water line.
 
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