I have searched the archives but haven't found the answer to my question. I am installing a roller furling and my concern is which blocks to run the sheets thru. Newer boats have the forward block on a traveler but my forward blocks are stationary. The O'day 25 does have a genoa block on a track but the track is so far aft I don't know if it will work? My question is, Is sliding the aft block as forward as possible { by the winch} going to work for me or will I also have install a new forward block and traveler. I hope what I am trying to describe makes sense to someone and please, positive,polite responses only. Many thanks, Jack p.s. Go Pats!!
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run them through the rear block
run your genoa sheets through the blocks on the track that are aft of the winch then back to the winch.there's no problem with that. You can remove the track and place it foward, but it's a bit of work for no difference in performance.
run your genoa sheets through the blocks on the track that are aft of the winch then back to the winch.there's no problem with that. You can remove the track and place it foward, but it's a bit of work for no difference in performance.
What size Jenny?
Jack, We have to know the size of your overlap before we can give you an answer. The boat looks great!! Did you just refurbish her? PM
Jack, We have to know the size of your overlap before we can give you an answer. The boat looks great!! Did you just refurbish her? PM
size of genny
I have yet to purchase the furler but from the archives I was thinking of the CDI F-4 w/bearings and a new 150% genny. Do you recomend the smaller 130% or even smaller than that? Thanks for the compliment on the boats condition. It's all original. Jack
I have yet to purchase the furler but from the archives I was thinking of the CDI F-4 w/bearings and a new 150% genny. Do you recomend the smaller 130% or even smaller than that? Thanks for the compliment on the boats condition. It's all original. Jack
if you get...
the 150% make sure that it has a foam luff so that you keep a decent shape as you reef it. ( I was actually told this past weekend at the Philly Sail Expo from a sailmaker that an even better option was a multiple rope luff (which is what they do on North Sails. The rope does not compress like the foam does after time) Also, I don't know where you plan to purchase your equpitment, but last year I bought the CDI and a 150% for my 22 and I found that the best prices came from the sail warehouse in CA. ( they bundled the sail and furler together. Just a thought. The CDI was so easy to install (took a few hours)
the 150% make sure that it has a foam luff so that you keep a decent shape as you reef it. ( I was actually told this past weekend at the Philly Sail Expo from a sailmaker that an even better option was a multiple rope luff (which is what they do on North Sails. The rope does not compress like the foam does after time) Also, I don't know where you plan to purchase your equpitment, but last year I bought the CDI and a 150% for my 22 and I found that the best prices came from the sail warehouse in CA. ( they bundled the sail and furler together. Just a thought. The CDI was so easy to install (took a few hours)
sheet leads
I put a roller furler on my O'day 23 last year. It is really convenient, and saves a lot of foredeck time. I ran my sheets to the rear track, and it worked fine when the genny was totally unfurled. However, when the genny was partially furled for higher winds, the clew was moving up higher as the sail was raised, and it was messing up my sheeting angles. I ran my sheets through the working jib blocks when the sail was reefed, and it worked better. That, however is a lot off messing around when it's bad enough to need to reef.I thought a snatch-block at the jib lead would work cool; you could leave the sheet in the genny track,and just pull it down and clip it into the jib lead. I am too cheap to do it myself, but it might just work.
I put a roller furler on my O'day 23 last year. It is really convenient, and saves a lot of foredeck time. I ran my sheets to the rear track, and it worked fine when the genny was totally unfurled. However, when the genny was partially furled for higher winds, the clew was moving up higher as the sail was raised, and it was messing up my sheeting angles. I ran my sheets through the working jib blocks when the sail was reefed, and it worked better. That, however is a lot off messing around when it's bad enough to need to reef.I thought a snatch-block at the jib lead would work cool; you could leave the sheet in the genny track,and just pull it down and clip it into the jib lead. I am too cheap to do it myself, but it might just work.
I agree
My 23 worked great with the jib through the blocks on the deck. When I got the 135 the sheets needed to be moved to the blocks on the track. One thing though my tracks on more forward on my '84. Later Ed
My 23 worked great with the jib through the blocks on the deck. When I got the 135 the sheets needed to be moved to the blocks on the track. One thing though my tracks on more forward on my '84. Later Ed
Installed a 150 on a O'Day 25
I installed a CDI FF4 a few years ago with a 150% Genoa. I ran the sheets through the rear blocks and installed a second set of blocks to act as turning blocks. Then I can fine tune the forward blocks to trim the Genoa. I usually roll up the 150 to 90 in winds over 15 knots and do no see a large loss in performance.
I installed a CDI FF4 a few years ago with a 150% Genoa. I ran the sheets through the rear blocks and installed a second set of blocks to act as turning blocks. Then I can fine tune the forward blocks to trim the Genoa. I usually roll up the 150 to 90 in winds over 15 knots and do no see a large loss in performance.
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