Furling main and shallow keel is bad combo??

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John Perri

I'm considering purchasing a '95 321. I've been told by a 30 yr + sailor that the combination of furling main and shallow keel will make for a very tender boat. Since this seems to be a very popular model, I would appreciate any information on sailing characteristics. This would mainly be for coastal sailing in Long Island Sound.
 
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Charlie Gruetzner - BeneteauOwners.net

Move forward

and if you like the boat and the surveryor says it is in good condition go ahead and buy it. It is a perfect boat for running up and down the Sound and even further. Good luck with it and hope to see out there this summer Charlie
 
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Tim

Good boat

John, We own a 1999 321 and are very pleased with it. Our's is a classic main model, which actually has more mainsail area than the furling main. She does tend to be a bit tender, but its really not a problem. I put the 1st reef in the main at about 15-16 knots apparent. I've noticed that I'm usually the first person reefing on windy days, but the performance doesn't really suffer in that much breeze anyway. The boat actually sails faster by keeping her on her feet. As a bonus, the 321 keel is lead too, not cast iron. The one thing I don't like about the boat is the transom height at the waterline. Basically there isn't any (height). At the dock, normally loaded, the bottom of the transom sits right at the waterline. Under way as the boat 'squats', it creates a backwash from the wake which is very noisy, not to mention the fact that this isn't exactly very hydrodynamic. All in all, though, we think its a lot of boat for the length. She's got a lot of room inside, and the hull is fast. If you compare the SA/D ratios for the 321 & 331, you'll find the 321 is a bit better (331 has an iron keel too). We sail in the Great Lakes, and spend a lot of weekends on the boat. Good luck! Tim
 
Jan 18, 2004
221
Beneteau 321 Houston
We are Pleased with the B321

John, We purchased Parrot Tales, a 1996 B321, in spring of 2002 and we have been very happy with the decision. We will probably keep it until we or it dies. We have the shoal keel (4'3") with the classic battened main and Dutchman flaking system. Don't think that it is particularly tender but my experience with other vessels of similar size is limited. I may be wrong, but I don,t think that IMF would make it any more "tender" than the classic. The boat has more interior room and storage than most others 4' longer. Although this is our first "larger" boat, I feel quite comfortable singlehanding it. The 27HP Yanmar pushes the boat easily to 5-6 knots at 2400RPM. This the same engine used in Bs upto to 38'. John and Tim, We had the same problem with the transom. Even had lower portion of the transom bottom painted with last bottom job a year ago. You need to keep water tank full. This fall I mounted a manual windlass and added 100' of 3/8" BBB chain. This adds about 230# to the bow. It has helped reduce the "squat" and keeps the transom out of the water. Also have installed numerous upgrades including: reworked forsail furling controls, revamped stock reefing rigging, added Balmar 100AMP alternator w/ 3-stage regulator, isolated battery banks and installed Pathmaker combiner, etc. Please feel free to contact me off line at jmcclain@southshorelabs.com
 
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Tim

Reefing mods

Jon, I also modified the reefing system as the stock one had tooooooo much friction. I'd be curious to know what you did? Here's what I did: 1. Upper and lower sheaves in goosneck are too close together, the line going up and back into the boom chafed against the line going out and up to the tack ring (same line, actually). Fix: installed smaller sheaves on lower axle in goosneck. Lines no longer chafe against eachother. 2. Shuttle blocks inside boom were too small and have no rope groove, which creates a lot of friction as the line tries to turn 180 degrees around a (approx) 1" sheave. Fix: end-for-ended two larger turning blocks (I think I used Schaefer Series 5 blocks) in place of each shuttle block. This pretty much solved all the friction problems the original system had. My system now reefs and shakes out very easily. I've seen a lot of debate about the single-line reefing systems, but once you fix these problems I wouldn't trade it for anything. Tim
 
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Jerry Purdy

Fine Boat

John, I have a 1995 Oceanis 321 with IMF. I'm very pleased with the boat and do not find it too tender. I agree with Tim that she likes to be on her feet and that it is a good idea to reef early. I, too, have the "squanting" problem and have applied bottom paint to the under side of the swimstep and on the end of the transom.
 
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Mike

321 Squat

Unkess you are using the aft cabin as a garage, the lip bumper should be about 4-5 inches above the water. If you keep the ends light on the boat is is really pretty fast. I have a picture of the stibility curve. It does look tippy bt it looks like it will recover real fast from a knockdown. The biggest thing that you can do for this boat is a new, flat mainsail with a good roach. The point will improve a 1000% It will heel less point better, just everything. Stop buying all that RV stuff and get the "Sailing Stuff" Thats wy its called a sailboat and not a camper!!!
 
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