Furling lead blocks on stanchions

Ward H

Ward H

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Nov 7, 2011
3,814
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
Time to replace the original Hood furling lead blocks on the stanchions. They don't spin well and two have grooves worn into the sheaves from the line.

The Harken (outside lead) and Schaffer stanchion blocks have ball bearings but are a bit pricey at around $40.

Allen Brothers and Spinlock have nice looking blocks but no BBs. Sheaves just spin on axel. Prices appear to be around $26 and $33.

Are BBs needed for this application?
 
jviss

jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,090
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
There's an Allen fairlead, i.e., no sheave, for $16. I don't imagine BB's are necessary, 'though I've always had them. I think the furler, and it's state of maintenance, are far more critical. There's really no much side load on a furling line stanchion block.
 
jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,794
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
jviss said:
I think the furler, and it's state of maintenance, are far more critical. There's really no much side load on a furling line stanchion block.
Click to expand
I would agree with @jviss that in most cases the furler maintenance and design are more critical to the effective use of the furler. Second would be having a fair lead for the furler line. Entanglement is a greater issue than BB's. Line size is a factor in a fair lead along the stanchion. Small enough to easily slide through the fair lead, big enough to grip. Lastly select a ratcheting single block for the turning block into the cockpit. There will be times you will be trying to "Reef" the sail while still "carrying the wind". The ratcheting block will help you in this task. Having a nearby open winch is a last resort. Or just head up and relieve the stress on the sail giving you the opportunity to manually furl the sail (my best option).
 
D

dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
13,449
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Dave Groshong said:
These are inexpensive and effective:
https://shop.catalinaowners.com/prod.php?13920
Click to expand
For the sections of the run that are straight, these will work well. I'd go with BB blocks for the first and last blocks where the turns are greater and there is more friction.

Have you checked Garhauer?

Also a ratcheting block with an attached cam cleat works very well at the end. Quick and easy to secure.
 
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Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,722
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
We have the Harken's on this boat and had the Scarfer's on the last. Also had just bulls eye fairleads before. I like the Harken's slightly better than the Schaefer. I would never again own a boat without bearing sheaves..
 
Ward H

Ward H

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Nov 7, 2011
3,814
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
My jib is a 150 but I keep it furled to about 135. Furling it is harder than I believe it needs to be. The hub and halyard swivel spins freely.
jssailem said:
just head up and relieve the stress on the sail giving you the opportunity to manually furl the sail.
Click to expand
This I do, cannot furl it without taking almost all the wind out of the sail.

I know I can improve the lead coming out of the drum. There's 5 blocks the line goes through before ending with a sharp turn through a bullseye fairlead at the cockpit. At least two of the blocks don't turn.
jssailem said:
a ratcheting single block for the turning block into the cockpit
Click to expand
will eliminate the bullseye fairlead.
It sounds like if the current blocks were spinning well, changing to BB blocks wouldn't give enough of an improvement to warrant the cost. Since I'll be changing out the worn blocks anyway sounds like I should spend more and go with the Harken blocks or maybe the Garhauer blocks. I almost always regret it when I go with the lowest cost.
 
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JRT

JRT

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Feb 14, 2017
2,059
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Ward H said:
My jib is a 150 but I keep it furled to about 135. Furling it is harder than I believe it needs to be. The hub and halyard swivel spins freely.
Click to expand
That 150 seems like a beast unless you really need the extra sail what about cutting it down to a 135 at least? On the instructor's boat with her 150 up, the furler seemed to be hard to work to me also. I know it is the way to go but I'll look real hard at this area in our next boat to make sure it is so futzy to get to work.
 
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Ward H

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,814
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
hewebb said:
I have these on the stanchions.
https://www.garhauerstore.com/stanchion-block-sb-4.html
Turning block is ratchet, lead block is BB. Lots less drag. Very easy to use.
Click to expand
@hewebb Are these ball bearing blocks?

John Tubb said:
That 150 seems like a beast
Click to expand
It is, especially after coming from the 25 with a 110%. With the winds on the BB the 110 on the 25 was plenty.
The C30 sails well with what I'm estimating is 135 so I plan to have it cut down this winter.
 
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thinwater

thinwater

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Mar 26, 2011
3,841
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
jssailem said:
... Or just head up and relieve the stress on the sail giving you the opportunity to manually furl the sail (my best option).
Click to expand
If this does not relieve enough pressure (and often it does not if it is blowing), head deep down wind and blanket the sail while keeping some tension on the sheet to help it roll neatly. This is really easy, much easier in a blow than reefing upwind. If you are organized, you don't actually loose much distance to windward, because it is also faster than reefing upwind. You will only be downwind for a matter of seconds if well planned, even on a large boat (My cruising cat had a 135% genoa).
 
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