has anyone installed a CDI furler or other brand to his oday 22 and can u tell me if i can do this myself and do u have any suggestions or hints about this
furler for 1975 oday 22
- Thread starter wrenchs wench
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Furler for Oday
I put a CDI Furler on my Oday 25 and as I had never installed one before I bought a CD from Sailrite that shows the installation step by step. It's Sailrite part number 0220 (800-348-2769). I highly recommend the CD if this is your first CDI installation. Following the detailed steps in the video I found my installation to be straight forward, but you'll need someone to help. Obviously you'll have to modify your headsail and the CD also shows how to do that. I had mine modified by a sail loft ---- well worth the money. King s/v King & Aye
I put a CDI Furler on my Oday 25 and as I had never installed one before I bought a CD from Sailrite that shows the installation step by step. It's Sailrite part number 0220 (800-348-2769). I highly recommend the CD if this is your first CDI installation. Following the detailed steps in the video I found my installation to be straight forward, but you'll need someone to help. Obviously you'll have to modify your headsail and the CD also shows how to do that. I had mine modified by a sail loft ---- well worth the money. King s/v King & Aye
CDI FF2 Roller Furler
I recently bought a CDI Roller Furler off Rudy Nickerson at D&R Marine a couple of months ago and I plan on installing it myself with the help of a friend of mine who installed one on his boat. I think that one of the most important things to do before you install it, is to make sure that your fore stay has toggles on it. My mast on my 222 has slots for "T" fittings. So I bought a Dwyer Mast tang off Rudy, that I will have to install on my mast in the vicinity of the slot on the mast. I also needed to have some clearance for my anchor roller on my bow, so that the bottom of my furler wouldn't be in the way of my anchor. so I bought a five inch Stainless Steel plate to add to my bow stem where the furler is going to be attached. I had Rudy cut my old "T" fitting off and add a toggle fitting to my forestay where it is going to be attached to the mast tang. This spring I'm planning on attaching the mast tang with duct tape, temporarily, and attaching the stay to it. I'll hoist the mast up to get a rough idea of the tang placement. Then I'll mark it and have Rudy rivet the tang in place with his hydrolic press. You may have to find a mast rigger and talk to him about the toggles and stay length. If your mast has tangs, and your forestays already has the toggles, then all you have to do is figure out the proper plastic luff length. Once you have that all squared away, then you may want to get that CD rom instruction video. Also, you'll probably want to take your sail to the sailmaker and have him evaluate it. The sail will have to be cut down and he'll have to remove the luff wire and piston hanks, and install the tape to the sail luff where it slide into the plastic luff on your forestay. Also, if the sail is in excellent shape, you should have a UV cover sewn in to protect it. Otherwise the sail will only last about three seasons. The conversion will probably cost about $350 with the UV shield. It may be worth your while to have him make you a new Genoa for $50 or $100 more. This is something that he can advise you on. Rudy's shop is only about 8 miles from where I live, so I'm lucky. When the time comes, I'll probably bring my boat down to his shop and have him rivet the tang to my mast. You may need to make two or even three cuts on the plastic luff, to get the proper clearance up top where it attaches to the mast. The luff need to be at least 3 inches from the mast so it doesn't hit it when it's spinning. Also, the CDI Furler can be purchased with or without ball bearings. Rudy advises that you don't get it with the ball bearings on boats our size. All you need is the metal washer that comes with the furler, that the drum sits on. According to Rudy, the ball bearings will get stuck and bound up, in time. The ball bearings can also be added later if you feel a need for them, but that furler will work just as good without them. Get someone to give you a hand with it and take your time. Good luck.
I recently bought a CDI Roller Furler off Rudy Nickerson at D&R Marine a couple of months ago and I plan on installing it myself with the help of a friend of mine who installed one on his boat. I think that one of the most important things to do before you install it, is to make sure that your fore stay has toggles on it. My mast on my 222 has slots for "T" fittings. So I bought a Dwyer Mast tang off Rudy, that I will have to install on my mast in the vicinity of the slot on the mast. I also needed to have some clearance for my anchor roller on my bow, so that the bottom of my furler wouldn't be in the way of my anchor. so I bought a five inch Stainless Steel plate to add to my bow stem where the furler is going to be attached. I had Rudy cut my old "T" fitting off and add a toggle fitting to my forestay where it is going to be attached to the mast tang. This spring I'm planning on attaching the mast tang with duct tape, temporarily, and attaching the stay to it. I'll hoist the mast up to get a rough idea of the tang placement. Then I'll mark it and have Rudy rivet the tang in place with his hydrolic press. You may have to find a mast rigger and talk to him about the toggles and stay length. If your mast has tangs, and your forestays already has the toggles, then all you have to do is figure out the proper plastic luff length. Once you have that all squared away, then you may want to get that CD rom instruction video. Also, you'll probably want to take your sail to the sailmaker and have him evaluate it. The sail will have to be cut down and he'll have to remove the luff wire and piston hanks, and install the tape to the sail luff where it slide into the plastic luff on your forestay. Also, if the sail is in excellent shape, you should have a UV cover sewn in to protect it. Otherwise the sail will only last about three seasons. The conversion will probably cost about $350 with the UV shield. It may be worth your while to have him make you a new Genoa for $50 or $100 more. This is something that he can advise you on. Rudy's shop is only about 8 miles from where I live, so I'm lucky. When the time comes, I'll probably bring my boat down to his shop and have him rivet the tang to my mast. You may need to make two or even three cuts on the plastic luff, to get the proper clearance up top where it attaches to the mast. The luff need to be at least 3 inches from the mast so it doesn't hit it when it's spinning. Also, the CDI Furler can be purchased with or without ball bearings. Rudy advises that you don't get it with the ball bearings on boats our size. All you need is the metal washer that comes with the furler, that the drum sits on. According to Rudy, the ball bearings will get stuck and bound up, in time. The ball bearings can also be added later if you feel a need for them, but that furler will work just as good without them. Get someone to give you a hand with it and take your time. Good luck.
yikes
being a newbie i guess ill stick with the old hank on as this seems expensive and beyond my current knowledge but i want to thank those of you who took the time to answer. I guess if i move up to a larger sailboat ill purchase with furler already onboard *yks
being a newbie i guess ill stick with the old hank on as this seems expensive and beyond my current knowledge but i want to thank those of you who took the time to answer. I guess if i move up to a larger sailboat ill purchase with furler already onboard *yks
About 3 hours to install
I picked up a CDI FF2 this summer, along with a brand new 150% genoa and a full batten main for my O'Day 222 for $1300 or so from the Sail Warehouse (they have a package deal, call them, they are pretty easy to work with). The price of a new 150% genoa for a 22 ft boat isn't that bad, and deals can be found on the internet. Unless your jib is pretty new, I'd look for a genoa that is already set up to use with a roller furler. It took me and a friend about 3 hours to unstep the mast, install the furler and restep the mast. The only real issue with the CDI is the plastic luff extrusion. You have to uncurl it as soon as you recieve it. If you follow the included directions this is not a difficult item to istall on a 22ft boat. Also, measure about 4 time before you cut the luff extrusion, if you cut it too short, you have to buy another. The roller furler is one of the best things I've added to the boat. I single hand it alot, and not having to go up to the bow in heavy winds is well worth every penny I paid for the system (the new sails are nice too). Now, if it is blowing hard I can put up the main and let out just a little jib if I feel like taking it easy, or let out some more if I'm up for some serious fun. I know I can alway pull it back in if I need to take a break. I also don't have to store 3 jibs below, which is also nice considering the size of the cabins on 22ft boats. - Chuck
I picked up a CDI FF2 this summer, along with a brand new 150% genoa and a full batten main for my O'Day 222 for $1300 or so from the Sail Warehouse (they have a package deal, call them, they are pretty easy to work with). The price of a new 150% genoa for a 22 ft boat isn't that bad, and deals can be found on the internet. Unless your jib is pretty new, I'd look for a genoa that is already set up to use with a roller furler. It took me and a friend about 3 hours to unstep the mast, install the furler and restep the mast. The only real issue with the CDI is the plastic luff extrusion. You have to uncurl it as soon as you recieve it. If you follow the included directions this is not a difficult item to istall on a 22ft boat. Also, measure about 4 time before you cut the luff extrusion, if you cut it too short, you have to buy another. The roller furler is one of the best things I've added to the boat. I single hand it alot, and not having to go up to the bow in heavy winds is well worth every penny I paid for the system (the new sails are nice too). Now, if it is blowing hard I can put up the main and let out just a little jib if I feel like taking it easy, or let out some more if I'm up for some serious fun. I know I can alway pull it back in if I need to take a break. I also don't have to store 3 jibs below, which is also nice considering the size of the cabins on 22ft boats. - Chuck
thanx chuckd
r sailing style seems similiar but i really dont know the rigging or steps to demasting thats how new i am
r sailing style seems similiar but i really dont know the rigging or steps to demasting thats how new i am
Roller Furlers
I've been hanking on my Genoa sail since I bought my boat new in 1986. Of course, I was a lot younger back then and my wife used to sail with me most of the time. Today I'm 63, and I sail with my dog most of the time and she's not likely to be of much help if I fell overboard while trying to handle my foresail. Not only that, but I use an autopilot most of the time, so it's more than likely that the boat is going to keep on a steady course and leave me in the water. With that said; there are a few things that you can do to get your foresail down without having to go forward. You could rig a downhaul for the foresail and lead it back to the mast or cockpit so that you can get the sail down and tend to it later. If you're going to be sailing with another person on board, it's not much of a chore to handle the foresail. I did for many years and didn't mind it too much. Things change a little as we get older and we're constantly looking for more safer and easier ways to sail our boat, especially if we're in the habit of sailing single handed. You may be better off sticking with what you have for now, and when you get tired of it and need a change,--go for it.
I've been hanking on my Genoa sail since I bought my boat new in 1986. Of course, I was a lot younger back then and my wife used to sail with me most of the time. Today I'm 63, and I sail with my dog most of the time and she's not likely to be of much help if I fell overboard while trying to handle my foresail. Not only that, but I use an autopilot most of the time, so it's more than likely that the boat is going to keep on a steady course and leave me in the water. With that said; there are a few things that you can do to get your foresail down without having to go forward. You could rig a downhaul for the foresail and lead it back to the mast or cockpit so that you can get the sail down and tend to it later. If you're going to be sailing with another person on board, it's not much of a chore to handle the foresail. I did for many years and didn't mind it too much. Things change a little as we get older and we're constantly looking for more safer and easier ways to sail our boat, especially if we're in the habit of sailing single handed. You may be better off sticking with what you have for now, and when you get tired of it and need a change,--go for it.
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