I am thinking of replacing our main with a full batten one. My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens? Also are there any other trim problems? Thanks Dale
Full batten main
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I am thinking of replacing our main with a full batten one. My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens? Also are there any other trim problems? Thanks Dale
Batten cars and other devices
Dale, Must be getting cold up there bout now, I lived in Syracuse for awhile. I had full batten mains on my schooner, and sailed all over the Pacific with them. They work great and make a sail easy to bring down/reef, but there are problems too. More weight aloft is one, but you're not racing hey? The cheaper plastic batten pocket ends are troublesome when cruising. They break, crack, jam, can be a pain if not replaced semi yearly (UV rays). Batten cars are expensive but can take much more punishmet, a good investment. These run along the track. Full battens give more roach = more sail area, and the sail lies easy, especially in light winds. I would not go through the trouble of changing over. No specific 'trim problems' associated with full battens that I am aware of, I didn't experience any but I was cruising and always reef early to avoid tearing up gear or worse. BTW I did a quick scan a few days ago, and saw folks talking 'Para-Anchors' didn't sound like anyone had experience besides reading what someone else had written on THEIR experience, not the best way to learn. Have you people heard of a 'SERIES DROGUE'? This in essence is a 'series' of small very strong little sea anchors tightly sewn into a 3/4 or 1" Nylon line. The original 'parachute' sea anchor had many different problems: a. spinning and unraveling three-strand-braid, then breaking. b. recovery. c. collapse. d. semi-collapse. e. slippage. The series-drogue is far superior, and even in breaking seas and collapse, mosre than enough are thus biting the water to hold you to. Chaff is a major problem that I found in lying to a sea-anchor, use fire hose materail. I would NEVER use a block on a sea anchor! Tie to the strongest cleats (direct!), back up by tying to the mast, and mouse all cleats over the lines with small stuff. You can have a loop on a separate line, run it over to the biggest cleat, then can adjust the angle of attack or the mainline to the drogue. BUT, the mainline must be attached as if it were alone first! That way if your winch, or tag-line (and were talking 3/4" minimum here for all lines) lets fly, well then you still have your orginal mainline to your drogue still.
Dale, Must be getting cold up there bout now, I lived in Syracuse for awhile. I had full batten mains on my schooner, and sailed all over the Pacific with them. They work great and make a sail easy to bring down/reef, but there are problems too. More weight aloft is one, but you're not racing hey? The cheaper plastic batten pocket ends are troublesome when cruising. They break, crack, jam, can be a pain if not replaced semi yearly (UV rays). Batten cars are expensive but can take much more punishmet, a good investment. These run along the track. Full battens give more roach = more sail area, and the sail lies easy, especially in light winds. I would not go through the trouble of changing over. No specific 'trim problems' associated with full battens that I am aware of, I didn't experience any but I was cruising and always reef early to avoid tearing up gear or worse. BTW I did a quick scan a few days ago, and saw folks talking 'Para-Anchors' didn't sound like anyone had experience besides reading what someone else had written on THEIR experience, not the best way to learn. Have you people heard of a 'SERIES DROGUE'? This in essence is a 'series' of small very strong little sea anchors tightly sewn into a 3/4 or 1" Nylon line. The original 'parachute' sea anchor had many different problems: a. spinning and unraveling three-strand-braid, then breaking. b. recovery. c. collapse. d. semi-collapse. e. slippage. The series-drogue is far superior, and even in breaking seas and collapse, mosre than enough are thus biting the water to hold you to. Chaff is a major problem that I found in lying to a sea-anchor, use fire hose materail. I would NEVER use a block on a sea anchor! Tie to the strongest cleats (direct!), back up by tying to the mast, and mouse all cleats over the lines with small stuff. You can have a loop on a separate line, run it over to the biggest cleat, then can adjust the angle of attack or the mainline to the drogue. BUT, the mainline must be attached as if it were alone first! That way if your winch, or tag-line (and were talking 3/4" minimum here for all lines) lets fly, well then you still have your orginal mainline to your drogue still.
Batten cars and other devices
Dale, Must be getting cold up there bout now, I lived in Syracuse for awhile. I had full batten mains on my schooner, and sailed all over the Pacific with them. They work great and make a sail easy to bring down/reef, but there are problems too. More weight aloft is one, but you're not racing hey? The cheaper plastic batten pocket ends are troublesome when cruising. They break, crack, jam, can be a pain if not replaced semi yearly (UV rays). Batten cars are expensive but can take much more punishmet, a good investment. These run along the track. Full battens give more roach = more sail area, and the sail lies easy, especially in light winds. I would not go through the trouble of changing over. No specific 'trim problems' associated with full battens that I am aware of, I didn't experience any but I was cruising and always reef early to avoid tearing up gear or worse. BTW I did a quick scan a few days ago, and saw folks talking 'Para-Anchors' didn't sound like anyone had experience besides reading what someone else had written on THEIR experience, not the best way to learn. Have you people heard of a 'SERIES DROGUE'? This in essence is a 'series' of small very strong little sea anchors tightly sewn into a 3/4 or 1" Nylon line. The original 'parachute' sea anchor had many different problems: a. spinning and unraveling three-strand-braid, then breaking. b. recovery. c. collapse. d. semi-collapse. e. slippage. The series-drogue is far superior, and even in breaking seas and collapse, mosre than enough are thus biting the water to hold you to. Chaff is a major problem that I found in lying to a sea-anchor, use fire hose materail. I would NEVER use a block on a sea anchor! Tie to the strongest cleats (direct!), back up by tying to the mast, and mouse all cleats over the lines with small stuff. You can have a loop on a separate line, run it over to the biggest cleat, then can adjust the angle of attack or the mainline to the drogue. BUT, the mainline must be attached as if it were alone first! That way if your winch, or tag-line (and were talking 3/4" minimum here for all lines) lets fly, well then you still have your orginal mainline to your drogue still.
Dale, Must be getting cold up there bout now, I lived in Syracuse for awhile. I had full batten mains on my schooner, and sailed all over the Pacific with them. They work great and make a sail easy to bring down/reef, but there are problems too. More weight aloft is one, but you're not racing hey? The cheaper plastic batten pocket ends are troublesome when cruising. They break, crack, jam, can be a pain if not replaced semi yearly (UV rays). Batten cars are expensive but can take much more punishmet, a good investment. These run along the track. Full battens give more roach = more sail area, and the sail lies easy, especially in light winds. I would not go through the trouble of changing over. No specific 'trim problems' associated with full battens that I am aware of, I didn't experience any but I was cruising and always reef early to avoid tearing up gear or worse. BTW I did a quick scan a few days ago, and saw folks talking 'Para-Anchors' didn't sound like anyone had experience besides reading what someone else had written on THEIR experience, not the best way to learn. Have you people heard of a 'SERIES DROGUE'? This in essence is a 'series' of small very strong little sea anchors tightly sewn into a 3/4 or 1" Nylon line. The original 'parachute' sea anchor had many different problems: a. spinning and unraveling three-strand-braid, then breaking. b. recovery. c. collapse. d. semi-collapse. e. slippage. The series-drogue is far superior, and even in breaking seas and collapse, mosre than enough are thus biting the water to hold you to. Chaff is a major problem that I found in lying to a sea-anchor, use fire hose materail. I would NEVER use a block on a sea anchor! Tie to the strongest cleats (direct!), back up by tying to the mast, and mouse all cleats over the lines with small stuff. You can have a loop on a separate line, run it over to the biggest cleat, then can adjust the angle of attack or the mainline to the drogue. BUT, the mainline must be attached as if it were alone first! That way if your winch, or tag-line (and were talking 3/4" minimum here for all lines) lets fly, well then you still have your orginal mainline to your drogue still.
Not sure which model Hunter you have
as your profile does not say what size your boat is (or much else). As Capt Ron (if that is his real name) suggests you could have a new main made with full battens that would have a larger roach (picture a Hobie cat sail) and thus more sail area. I am not sure if this is what you are asking about though. We have a full batten main on our old (1967) Tartan 27 and I think that it is the original main as it has the hull number and insignia on it. We have no 'extra' roach in our sail as I believe our PO took his main in to a sail maker and added the full batten feature to help give life to the older sail. I also recently heard this same theory from another sail maker we took our sails too and discussed getting new ones (this guy told us our boat was too old for new sail! Go figure, an honest man perhaps) and he also suggested that by adding full battens later in the life of the sail can prolong its usefulness or life. You asked about 'twist' and my best guess is that the full battens tend to make the sail a bit more rigid and perhaps you would get more twist at the top of your main with regular battens when new. The generalization the sail maker told us was that cruisers liked full battens as they are easier to reef and put up and down and can reduce the flogging/luffing which might be easier on the sail cloth (material) and racers preferred the regular battens or even loose footed mains (imagine that!) as they can be shaped more betterly. I do not know whether you race or cruise mostly or what boat you sail so I cannot comment further about full batten mains except that perhaps that they were invented somewhere in the South Pacific. I also will not comment on drogues or series circuits or whatever as I was not in a movie about sailing on the Caribbean like Capn Ron and I try to post here only if I think that I have something relevant to contribute to the question asked. Talk to a sail maker or two. Maybe Don Guillette will chime in on this question? Stay warm.
as your profile does not say what size your boat is (or much else). As Capt Ron (if that is his real name) suggests you could have a new main made with full battens that would have a larger roach (picture a Hobie cat sail) and thus more sail area. I am not sure if this is what you are asking about though. We have a full batten main on our old (1967) Tartan 27 and I think that it is the original main as it has the hull number and insignia on it. We have no 'extra' roach in our sail as I believe our PO took his main in to a sail maker and added the full batten feature to help give life to the older sail. I also recently heard this same theory from another sail maker we took our sails too and discussed getting new ones (this guy told us our boat was too old for new sail! Go figure, an honest man perhaps) and he also suggested that by adding full battens later in the life of the sail can prolong its usefulness or life. You asked about 'twist' and my best guess is that the full battens tend to make the sail a bit more rigid and perhaps you would get more twist at the top of your main with regular battens when new. The generalization the sail maker told us was that cruisers liked full battens as they are easier to reef and put up and down and can reduce the flogging/luffing which might be easier on the sail cloth (material) and racers preferred the regular battens or even loose footed mains (imagine that!) as they can be shaped more betterly. I do not know whether you race or cruise mostly or what boat you sail so I cannot comment further about full batten mains except that perhaps that they were invented somewhere in the South Pacific. I also will not comment on drogues or series circuits or whatever as I was not in a movie about sailing on the Caribbean like Capn Ron and I try to post here only if I think that I have something relevant to contribute to the question asked. Talk to a sail maker or two. Maybe Don Guillette will chime in on this question? Stay warm.
Not sure which model Hunter you have
as your profile does not say what size your boat is (or much else). As Capt Ron (if that is his real name) suggests you could have a new main made with full battens that would have a larger roach (picture a Hobie cat sail) and thus more sail area. I am not sure if this is what you are asking about though. We have a full batten main on our old (1967) Tartan 27 and I think that it is the original main as it has the hull number and insignia on it. We have no 'extra' roach in our sail as I believe our PO took his main in to a sail maker and added the full batten feature to help give life to the older sail. I also recently heard this same theory from another sail maker we took our sails too and discussed getting new ones (this guy told us our boat was too old for new sail! Go figure, an honest man perhaps) and he also suggested that by adding full battens later in the life of the sail can prolong its usefulness or life. You asked about 'twist' and my best guess is that the full battens tend to make the sail a bit more rigid and perhaps you would get more twist at the top of your main with regular battens when new. The generalization the sail maker told us was that cruisers liked full battens as they are easier to reef and put up and down and can reduce the flogging/luffing which might be easier on the sail cloth (material) and racers preferred the regular battens or even loose footed mains (imagine that!) as they can be shaped more betterly. I do not know whether you race or cruise mostly or what boat you sail so I cannot comment further about full batten mains except that perhaps that they were invented somewhere in the South Pacific. I also will not comment on drogues or series circuits or whatever as I was not in a movie about sailing on the Caribbean like Capn Ron and I try to post here only if I think that I have something relevant to contribute to the question asked. Talk to a sail maker or two. Maybe Don Guillette will chime in on this question? Stay warm.
as your profile does not say what size your boat is (or much else). As Capt Ron (if that is his real name) suggests you could have a new main made with full battens that would have a larger roach (picture a Hobie cat sail) and thus more sail area. I am not sure if this is what you are asking about though. We have a full batten main on our old (1967) Tartan 27 and I think that it is the original main as it has the hull number and insignia on it. We have no 'extra' roach in our sail as I believe our PO took his main in to a sail maker and added the full batten feature to help give life to the older sail. I also recently heard this same theory from another sail maker we took our sails too and discussed getting new ones (this guy told us our boat was too old for new sail! Go figure, an honest man perhaps) and he also suggested that by adding full battens later in the life of the sail can prolong its usefulness or life. You asked about 'twist' and my best guess is that the full battens tend to make the sail a bit more rigid and perhaps you would get more twist at the top of your main with regular battens when new. The generalization the sail maker told us was that cruisers liked full battens as they are easier to reef and put up and down and can reduce the flogging/luffing which might be easier on the sail cloth (material) and racers preferred the regular battens or even loose footed mains (imagine that!) as they can be shaped more betterly. I do not know whether you race or cruise mostly or what boat you sail so I cannot comment further about full batten mains except that perhaps that they were invented somewhere in the South Pacific. I also will not comment on drogues or series circuits or whatever as I was not in a movie about sailing on the Caribbean like Capn Ron and I try to post here only if I think that I have something relevant to contribute to the question asked. Talk to a sail maker or two. Maybe Don Guillette will chime in on this question? Stay warm.
full battens...
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
full battens...
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
full battens...
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
full battens...
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
"My question is does it make adjusting the main for twist any harder to do than a sail that has regular battens?" No.. twist is controlled by leech tension(vertical). Battens offer lateral (horizontal) support to the leech and roach of the main. "any other trim problems?" In my opinion, the full battens restrict the outhaul's range of adjustment on the lower third of the sail. Additional comment: Forget the fully battened main idea and get a sail with two full battens at the top and two partial battens at the bottom. This will allow a slightly larger roach, and keep shape up top while giving you more freedom of adjustment for the lower half. Final comment: Caleb's comments are way off base. I'm not in the mood to pick anyone apart so I'll just suggest you talk to a sailmaker and let him set you straight on the advantages and disadvantages of full battens. At the very least, read a book on sail trim.
Hey Joe..Educate me. How do full battens
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
Hey Joe..Educate me. How do full battens
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
Hey Joe..Educate me. How do full battens
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
Hey Joe..Educate me. How do full battens
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
restrict the outhaul? Battens are loose in a pocket and only attached at the luff of the sail. They ,to my knowledge, have never hand any effect on my use of the outhaul. Thanks
Catalina 22
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
Catalina 22
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
Catalina 22
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
Catalina 22
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
CaiebD, we sail a C-22 on Henderson Bay, on lake Ontario. The winds are anything from a drifter, to storm sail. We are looking to replace our main in the next year or so. I have heard that a good way to go is to have full battens on the top two, and regular length battens on the lower two. We do not race, but like to get all of the speed from the boat that we can. Also if you have a full batten, do you still have the same sail slugs as the short batten sail? Thanks Dale
" Off Base"
Well, ya caught me there Celeb, real name is Kurt Russell, probably never heard of me, but hang out with Goldie Hawn, and ski Vail with Martin Short and Steve Martin. Joe says you're 'off base' maybe he knows, I don't, and I must be too. I only post comments from my own experiences, not from books I read (oodles of 'em). As I wrote about my own experience of handling full battens and troubles had, I was thinking what if any twist for subtle gain or loss there was? I cannot accurately say, but my own personal opinion is this, I liked the full battend mains, all two of 'em, but at the end of the day, more trouble than they were worth.I was always fixing sumpthin associated with them, mind you I went through some awfull gales and three or four times got into a real STORM, and even though all is tied & nailed, the wind & sea battering against things take their toll. The comments on lying to a sea-anchor are for the groups education, sounds like Bob Gainer is the single one with any real experience, and so many 'advisers' on so many subjects they know little about. one fellow I know, was in the middle of the "Queens Birthday Storm" 1/2 way from N.Z. to Tonga, used an old car tire he had aboard with one inch warping line to good effect to hold his bow to the waves; optimum here is said to be fifty (50) degress off the direct line of the wave. Even with confused sea you can figure this out. My ego is not on the line one way or the other, and few, perhaps a half dozen, know my real name for very good reason. Speaking of that, one of 'em, pretty experienced too, asked about 'small-stuff' this is small line (like `1/4" nylon or even hemp) that is used to "mouse" or lock down a large line on a cleat, a one time use and temporary tactic that is tried and true. Lock it down with small stuff and it will not slip or slack off.
Well, ya caught me there Celeb, real name is Kurt Russell, probably never heard of me, but hang out with Goldie Hawn, and ski Vail with Martin Short and Steve Martin. Joe says you're 'off base' maybe he knows, I don't, and I must be too. I only post comments from my own experiences, not from books I read (oodles of 'em). As I wrote about my own experience of handling full battens and troubles had, I was thinking what if any twist for subtle gain or loss there was? I cannot accurately say, but my own personal opinion is this, I liked the full battend mains, all two of 'em, but at the end of the day, more trouble than they were worth.I was always fixing sumpthin associated with them, mind you I went through some awfull gales and three or four times got into a real STORM, and even though all is tied & nailed, the wind & sea battering against things take their toll. The comments on lying to a sea-anchor are for the groups education, sounds like Bob Gainer is the single one with any real experience, and so many 'advisers' on so many subjects they know little about. one fellow I know, was in the middle of the "Queens Birthday Storm" 1/2 way from N.Z. to Tonga, used an old car tire he had aboard with one inch warping line to good effect to hold his bow to the waves; optimum here is said to be fifty (50) degress off the direct line of the wave. Even with confused sea you can figure this out. My ego is not on the line one way or the other, and few, perhaps a half dozen, know my real name for very good reason. Speaking of that, one of 'em, pretty experienced too, asked about 'small-stuff' this is small line (like `1/4" nylon or even hemp) that is used to "mouse" or lock down a large line on a cleat, a one time use and temporary tactic that is tried and true. Lock it down with small stuff and it will not slip or slack off.
" Off Base"
Well, ya caught me there Celeb, real name is Kurt Russell, probably never heard of me, but hang out with Goldie Hawn, and ski Vail with Martin Short and Steve Martin. Joe says you're 'off base' maybe he knows, I don't, and I must be too. I only post comments from my own experiences, not from books I read (oodles of 'em). As I wrote about my own experience of handling full battens and troubles had, I was thinking what if any twist for subtle gain or loss there was? I cannot accurately say, but my own personal opinion is this, I liked the full battend mains, all two of 'em, but at the end of the day, more trouble than they were worth.I was always fixing sumpthin associated with them, mind you I went through some awfull gales and three or four times got into a real STORM, and even though all is tied & nailed, the wind & sea battering against things take their toll. The comments on lying to a sea-anchor are for the groups education, sounds like Bob Gainer is the single one with any real experience, and so many 'advisers' on so many subjects they know little about. one fellow I know, was in the middle of the "Queens Birthday Storm" 1/2 way from N.Z. to Tonga, used an old car tire he had aboard with one inch warping line to good effect to hold his bow to the waves; optimum here is said to be fifty (50) degress off the direct line of the wave. Even with confused sea you can figure this out. My ego is not on the line one way or the other, and few, perhaps a half dozen, know my real name for very good reason. Speaking of that, one of 'em, pretty experienced too, asked about 'small-stuff' this is small line (like `1/4" nylon or even hemp) that is used to "mouse" or lock down a large line on a cleat, a one time use and temporary tactic that is tried and true. Lock it down with small stuff and it will not slip or slack off.
Well, ya caught me there Celeb, real name is Kurt Russell, probably never heard of me, but hang out with Goldie Hawn, and ski Vail with Martin Short and Steve Martin. Joe says you're 'off base' maybe he knows, I don't, and I must be too. I only post comments from my own experiences, not from books I read (oodles of 'em). As I wrote about my own experience of handling full battens and troubles had, I was thinking what if any twist for subtle gain or loss there was? I cannot accurately say, but my own personal opinion is this, I liked the full battend mains, all two of 'em, but at the end of the day, more trouble than they were worth.I was always fixing sumpthin associated with them, mind you I went through some awfull gales and three or four times got into a real STORM, and even though all is tied & nailed, the wind & sea battering against things take their toll. The comments on lying to a sea-anchor are for the groups education, sounds like Bob Gainer is the single one with any real experience, and so many 'advisers' on so many subjects they know little about. one fellow I know, was in the middle of the "Queens Birthday Storm" 1/2 way from N.Z. to Tonga, used an old car tire he had aboard with one inch warping line to good effect to hold his bow to the waves; optimum here is said to be fifty (50) degress off the direct line of the wave. Even with confused sea you can figure this out. My ego is not on the line one way or the other, and few, perhaps a half dozen, know my real name for very good reason. Speaking of that, one of 'em, pretty experienced too, asked about 'small-stuff' this is small line (like `1/4" nylon or even hemp) that is used to "mouse" or lock down a large line on a cleat, a one time use and temporary tactic that is tried and true. Lock it down with small stuff and it will not slip or slack off.
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