Fuel woes relieved.

[Ed Schenck]

This past winter I installed two cleanout ports on top of my H37C fuel tank. Got her really clean and then sucked new fuel through to Racor using oil extractor. But after she splashed I could not get her to run. Neither could the Yanmar mechanic(haven’t seen his bill yet). He wanted to replace all the fuel lines but I said no.Saturday I bought a 6-gallon poly fuel tank with the hose and squeeze bulb. Hooked that up directly to the Racor and bled the air from the primary filter and the injectors. You can put a lot of pressure on the fuel line with that bulb. The old 2QM20 started first crank! Then I used the oil extractor again to get fuel to the Racor. Put my thumb over hose, put it on the Racor and clamped tightly. Again she started on the first crank! And kept on running. Put it in reverse for some load and let her warm up for an oil change.I am assuming there was an airlock or other problem with that funny looking original filter, the one that looks like a metal can split in the middle. Should that can be removed? Is it a filter? I can bleed it from the bottom but otherwise it is inaccessible. I am considering keeping that tank aboard with about 3 gallons of diesel. But I hate taking up the locker space.

 

[Bryan C.]

Engine mounted filter

Not sure what you are talking about, it sounds like you are talking about the original primary filter, but then you talk about the Racor. You should have two filters, a primary between the tank and the engine (at the lift pump) and a secondary mounted on the engine where you bleed it. Probably is the original primary (fram) filter. When I bought my boat I couldn't open it, so I took it off and replaced it with a Racor.

 

[Ed Schenck]

To clarify.

Thanks Bryan but I have three filters(or something). The heavy fuel line with the brass screw-on connectors goes from the tank shutoff valve to this "can". From the can is a more average fuel hose with a regular clamp going into the Racor with a regular clamp. From the Racor more regular hose to the fuel pump. From there to the engine-mounted filter, the one with the bleed screw on top. Two reasons I did not try bypassing that "can": 1) the big fuel line won't reach the Racor, and 2) I did not have an adapter to the Racor for the fuel line fitting.The solution might be a new and longer fuel line and a fitting for the Racor for attaching it. This would bypass the "can".

 

[Bill]

Can?

If the "can" is orange then it is a FRAM fuel filter. Is this is what yo are writing about?

 

[Garry Elmer]

Fuel to go

We have the venerable 2QM16 in our 1980 33. The fuel problems I have run into include having to break the fitting on the inlet to the high pressure pump and bleed it to there also, after bleeding the YANMAR aluminium can filter. With all the different fittings and hoses I have had a lot of trouble with air in the lines. I went to a 10 micron filter on the RACOR and that helped tremendously. This reduced the suction needed to draw fuel from the tank to the YANMAR low pressure fuel pump. Next winter I am going to replace all the rubber hoses (except the one piece to the low pressure fuel pump) with copper line and "space station" grade fittings.Good luck!Garry

 

[Jim Logan]

For Gary about metal fuel lines

One of the reasons that fuel lines are made of flexible materials on small engines is that over time metal fuel lines on vibrating engines, especially copper and its alloys, work-harden and crack, generally where they are fastened to the bulkhead or engine. You are better off with new flexible hoses, especially with the vibration level of the 2qm15. If you want to use metal, I would get stainless steel fuel line, and use it only on the straight runs with the proper fuel clips, and always separate the engine and the main fuel line with flexible hose. Of course, if you want to use the expensive flexible rubber covered with stainless mesh, as on race cars and airplanes, you would be fine, but I think you might have a problem with finding fittings. My 2 cents worth.