I find I must replace the tank in my 1988 Cat 30. The tank cleaner guy scrubbed the bottom so well, he opened a leak. Anyhow, has anuone done this project? How best to get the old one out, and what to buy to replace it with is the big questions. Any help would be appreciated. Ron Brassord {Cleaning up after WILMA in Lighthouse Point]
fuel tank replacement
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Tank replacement
Did that 7 years ago in 1983 Cat 30. Slight weeping of diesel, emptied the tank, had it welded, still leaked. Did that 2 more times before calling Catalina. Got a new replacement tank, thicker aluminum, perfect fit. And...cheaper than all the welding etc! Water in the bottom of the aluminum tank encourages growth and corrosion. Easy removal and installation. Get a new tank as you probably have other leak opportunties in the old tank. Give Catalina a call.
Did that 7 years ago in 1983 Cat 30. Slight weeping of diesel, emptied the tank, had it welded, still leaked. Did that 2 more times before calling Catalina. Got a new replacement tank, thicker aluminum, perfect fit. And...cheaper than all the welding etc! Water in the bottom of the aluminum tank encourages growth and corrosion. Easy removal and installation. Get a new tank as you probably have other leak opportunties in the old tank. Give Catalina a call.
relatively easy in our 1988 Catalina 30's
Replaced my 1988's a few years ago (5 +/-), mine had small pin holes possibly due to the fill-cap chain falling inside and causing galvanic corrosion. I had a local fabricator make a new tank from the old one, but they did make the tabs wrong at first, so the idea of getting it right from Catalina (Catalinadirect.com) sounds like a great idea. Removal was easy, just need to cut the fiberglass roving covering the tabs, disconnect the lines, and it will come out easily (obviously empty it, can remove the tank pick-up and pump it out from there, or use the fuel pump to pump it out by the engine). When I reinstalled the new tank, per the tank manufacturer, I added a neoprene rubber spacer between it and the hot water heater to prevent any galvanic action between the different metals and the electric current in the hot water heater. Then just used West's resin/glass weave to refashion the hold down fiberglass (even used the extra resin to reinforce the holding tank end plywood boards while I was doing it). If you need it, I have exact dimensions of the tank, just let me know. ALso, I have always wondered if I should have replaced the hot water heater at the same time (as to replace it would require removing the tank again). So, give some thought to doing it at the same time, given it is now 17 years old (get the stainless housing one for the extra $'s, worth the reliability and the non-ferrous metal housing).
Replaced my 1988's a few years ago (5 +/-), mine had small pin holes possibly due to the fill-cap chain falling inside and causing galvanic corrosion. I had a local fabricator make a new tank from the old one, but they did make the tabs wrong at first, so the idea of getting it right from Catalina (Catalinadirect.com) sounds like a great idea. Removal was easy, just need to cut the fiberglass roving covering the tabs, disconnect the lines, and it will come out easily (obviously empty it, can remove the tank pick-up and pump it out from there, or use the fuel pump to pump it out by the engine). When I reinstalled the new tank, per the tank manufacturer, I added a neoprene rubber spacer between it and the hot water heater to prevent any galvanic action between the different metals and the electric current in the hot water heater. Then just used West's resin/glass weave to refashion the hold down fiberglass (even used the extra resin to reinforce the holding tank end plywood boards while I was doing it). If you need it, I have exact dimensions of the tank, just let me know. ALso, I have always wondered if I should have replaced the hot water heater at the same time (as to replace it would require removing the tank again). So, give some thought to doing it at the same time, given it is now 17 years old (get the stainless housing one for the extra $'s, worth the reliability and the non-ferrous metal housing).
New tank ordered
I wish I had sought advise before starting this process. I had a dirty tank/fuel problem and opted for a $150 tank cleaning and polishing. The guy was very professional and had thw best equipment. He worked about six hours scrubbing the goo that was on the bottom of the tank with a wand/jet. It came clean alright, but obviously wore through the bottom. Next and only option is a new tank, repairs never seem to work. I found a decal on the tank that listed Florida Marine Tank in Miami as the original builder and a telephone number. To my surprise they are still in business and could guraantee an exact replacement in 30 days for $200. For SE Florida that's exceptional. I see the feet that need to be cut out, and I found that the cabinet to the right of the stairs slides out to give acess to the port side feet. Looks like a slam dunk. You got me thinking about replaceing the original water heater [ I guess it's a no brainer] I don't like the $$$ going from $150 to maybe $500 or so, but I'm sure the heater is just waiting to fail the day after I glass in the new fuel tank. Maybe install the fuel tank a few inches back? Anyhow I appreciate your helpfull interest. Good sailing [in 30+ days] Ron B
I wish I had sought advise before starting this process. I had a dirty tank/fuel problem and opted for a $150 tank cleaning and polishing. The guy was very professional and had thw best equipment. He worked about six hours scrubbing the goo that was on the bottom of the tank with a wand/jet. It came clean alright, but obviously wore through the bottom. Next and only option is a new tank, repairs never seem to work. I found a decal on the tank that listed Florida Marine Tank in Miami as the original builder and a telephone number. To my surprise they are still in business and could guraantee an exact replacement in 30 days for $200. For SE Florida that's exceptional. I see the feet that need to be cut out, and I found that the cabinet to the right of the stairs slides out to give acess to the port side feet. Looks like a slam dunk. You got me thinking about replaceing the original water heater [ I guess it's a no brainer] I don't like the $$$ going from $150 to maybe $500 or so, but I'm sure the heater is just waiting to fail the day after I glass in the new fuel tank. Maybe install the fuel tank a few inches back? Anyhow I appreciate your helpfull interest. Good sailing [in 30+ days] Ron B
move tank no more than 1/2 inch back
Don't fret about the tank cleaning choice, it was probably due nonetheless, at least you didn't find it out via a leak into the bilge (like I did). BTW, moving the tank aft of its current position would give room to maybe remove the HW heater later on (it would have to be the amount that the HW sits under the forward lip of the sette area). However, it might ALSO raise the tank too high at the aft end of the tank and compromise the fit of the cover board, or worse move the fill hose position to far aft and then miss the 'lexan' cover plate on the cover board which accounted for the raised hose fitting. Obviously measure thrice, glass once.. Again, I used two 1 1/2" wide by 3-4" long by 1/4" to 3/8" thick neoprene rubber spacers that the tank guys provided (about 2" wide), I glued it to the tank (I think) with probably some silicone or life seal (Boatlife brand) and then slid it forward right up against the hot water heater. Hope this helps... and best of luck...
Don't fret about the tank cleaning choice, it was probably due nonetheless, at least you didn't find it out via a leak into the bilge (like I did). BTW, moving the tank aft of its current position would give room to maybe remove the HW heater later on (it would have to be the amount that the HW sits under the forward lip of the sette area). However, it might ALSO raise the tank too high at the aft end of the tank and compromise the fit of the cover board, or worse move the fill hose position to far aft and then miss the 'lexan' cover plate on the cover board which accounted for the raised hose fitting. Obviously measure thrice, glass once.. Again, I used two 1 1/2" wide by 3-4" long by 1/4" to 3/8" thick neoprene rubber spacers that the tank guys provided (about 2" wide), I glued it to the tank (I think) with probably some silicone or life seal (Boatlife brand) and then slid it forward right up against the hot water heater. Hope this helps... and best of luck...
If you are planning on replacing the water heater:
The stock water heater on the C-30 Mark II was from Seaward Products, most likely the S- or F-600 model. They still make them, and it should be an exact drop-in replacement for your existing unit. Steve Alchemist '87 C-30T #4764 Alchemist '02 C-320 #909
The stock water heater on the C-30 Mark II was from Seaward Products, most likely the S- or F-600 model. They still make them, and it should be an exact drop-in replacement for your existing unit. Steve Alchemist '87 C-30T #4764 Alchemist '02 C-320 #909
Fuel tank
Ron: As noted the tank comes out pretty easy. Mine was held in place with 4 phillip head screws. 3 came out easy but the 4th was a bear and it was the port side aft screw. These tanks only last about 10 years on the average and then they develop pin hole leaks. To simplify the installation procees, I brought the old tank to a fabricator in Newport Beach, Ca and had him exactly duplicate the tank. Before they started building the tank i had them pressure test it and I had pin hole leaks all over the place. When I installed the tank I discarded the pick up tube screen. My leak problem was one tank of fuel lasted me about 4 years because I don't use the engine a lot so all the little critters that like to eat at the tank had a field day.
Ron: As noted the tank comes out pretty easy. Mine was held in place with 4 phillip head screws. 3 came out easy but the 4th was a bear and it was the port side aft screw. These tanks only last about 10 years on the average and then they develop pin hole leaks. To simplify the installation procees, I brought the old tank to a fabricator in Newport Beach, Ca and had him exactly duplicate the tank. Before they started building the tank i had them pressure test it and I had pin hole leaks all over the place. When I installed the tank I discarded the pick up tube screen. My leak problem was one tank of fuel lasted me about 4 years because I don't use the engine a lot so all the little critters that like to eat at the tank had a field day.
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