Fuel Tank Replacement...Air?

J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
I recently replaced the fuel tank (moved it into the port lazarette).
Although I still have to find a flexible fuel fill hose (any ideas?),
I am wondering if I need to do anything prior to firing her up in the
spring. I've heard air in the lines can be a bad thing! She has the
original MD6A.

BTW, thanks to everyone that replied during my fuel tank location and
type quest. I bought a tank based on one member's recommendation and
located in the locker based on another.

Thanks,
Jack
V2620
Bella
 
G

groundhogyh

.
May 30, 2006
1,075
For some fuel hoses, you can try a local company that fabricates hoses for truckers.
In my area, there are several that do nothing but hoses. Usually have tons of connectors and hose types for gas and diesel.
rb
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
Does anyone know if I have to bleed the lines, or how to do that, or
if its even necessary? I'm just not sure if it even needs to be done.
Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks for the advice on the truck hose. I'll do some checking locally.

Jack
V2620
Bella
 
W

wxt8981

.
Oct 31, 2019
562
HI.:
I assume you have an airfilter. That one should be full as well as the hoses. Depending where you have the fuel tank, you might need an extra hose to lift up the diesel. As the last job, bleed the fuel line where it is connected to the engine (injection pump).
Wilhelm, V-257
 
W

wxt8981

.
Oct 31, 2019
562
There should be a bleeding bolt where the hose is connected to the engine. Open that bolt, run the engine (it wont fire ) untill fuel comes out. Then close it, and the engine should run. Before you do all that, make sure all hos connections are secure.
Wilhelm, V-257
 
G

groundhogyh

.
May 30, 2006
1,075
If you have the MD6A, the bleed screw is on top of the fuel filter on the engine.
As Wilhelm said, you can also bleed right at the connection to the top of the injectors, although, I haven't found that this point makes a difference. The bleed screw is more convenient.

There are pdf manuals for the boat and motor available.
rb
 
V

vegatern

.
Oct 2, 2005
465
When I bought the boat a new fuel tank was already installed in
the port locker so I can't help with the source for the fill hose,
however, I don't use the deck fill anyway. I find it easier to fill
by opening the inspection plate on the top of the fuel tank, and there
is no chance I will spill into the bay.
Air in the fuel line will prevent the engine from running, or
stop it, and so fuel needs to be forced down the line by loosening the
bleed screw on the fuel filter and pumping fuel ( I installed a
outboard primer bulb in the fuel line where it exits the tank, because
the lift pump was not strong enough to pull from the tank, or perhaps
I'm just impatient) until clear fuel flows out at the screw. You will
probably also need to bleed at the injectors by loosening the fuel
lines where they enter the injectors as well, and pumping the injector
pump by hand.
A mechanic suggested I mark the bleed screw and injector nuts
with red paint so my wife could locate them if I were incapacitated,
and I saw that Lealea #1860 installed a deck plate so that the bleed
screw could be accessed without removing the cockpit sole. Both good
ideas, but of course I haven't acted on either.
Craig
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
Please forgive me for my ignorance. If I understand this, loosen the bleed screw on above the fuel filter, run the engine (which wont start) until clear fuel flows from the screw, tighten the screw.

In addition, possibly loosen the lines to the injectors and pump the injector pump by hand (I'll need to find that).

Some time in the future, mark all the screws in case I am incapacitated and my wife needs to perform this procedure.

Does that about sum it up? Can I pump the fuel by simply turning the fly wheel by hand with the crank? I'm starting to like the inline hand pump idea!

Craig, let me know when you mark your bleed screws. I'll do mine at the same time!

Jack
 
W

wxt8981

.
Oct 31, 2019
562
haha... you said it; and sure, you can hand crank the engine, just open the decompressior
Wilhelm, V-257
 
W

wxt8981

.
Oct 31, 2019
562
I forgot to write: I would start the engine- it wont start right away, but once the lines are clear, the engine will start. Diesel might spill out from the screw, but once closed you're sure no air is inside. Just be carefull and have no rags hanging arount- they could get cought by the belt- not a good idea.
Wilhelm, V-257
 
V

vegatern

.
Oct 2, 2005
465
Jack, I'm no mechanic but I can explain what was shown to me. I have an MD7A which is the same engine you have with just a bit larger bore I guess. The manuals are the same.
On top of the fuel filter holder is the bleed screw. Follow the fuel line back towards the tank and you will find the lift pump. It is a small thing mounted on the back port side of the engine and when the engine is running pushes fuel to the filter. It also has a small lever on it so you can manually pump it, which is how I was shown to bleed the line, but it is very slow, or I had to much air for it to move, so I added the primer bulb. What Wilhelm says makes sense. If you lift the decompress lever and spin the flywheel that should work the lift pump. Seems to me by using the flywheel crank there would be less chance of damaging the starter or something.
After fuel comes clean from the bleed screw and the engine still won't start, there may be air further on. Go the front of the engine and loosen the nuts on the fuel lines at the injectors. Follow the line down and back a bit on the starboard side to where they exit a rectangular block, the injector pump. It can be operated manually until fuel squirts form the lines at the injectors. Tighten things up and she should start with the key.
I was warned that an outboard primer bulb may not be resistant to diesel but I haven't noticed it going bad. It has been there a couple of years.
I will put a note on the calendar to order the paint.
Craig
 
S

stevebirch2002

.
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi All

Ive had a fair bit of experience on bleeding these engines in many Vegas.... There is a method that is easy to learn and foolproof.

To start a diesel you must have diesel at the correct time, no air and compression!

Depending on your particular fuel system this is my method (Not the only method)

1. Pump diesel up to your main off-engine filter using whatever you have installed. Push pump, primer bulb or by using the mechanical lift pump attached to the engine.
On each filter housing there will be a bleed point at its highest point. Once diesel comes out without air bubbles lock off the bleed point.

2. Step 1 is followed but on the fine filter that is attached to the engine. Ensure there is pure diesel (no air bubbles) coming out of the bleed point before closing the bleed point.

3. The next step is the one I never see in any instructions. On the forward face of the high pressure injector pump is a 17mm (may be 19mm) bolt face, this needs to be cracked open. Turn the engine over by hand or battery until diesel dribbles out of the bottom of this bolt. Stop cranking and tighten the above mentioned bolt. This is important as the injector pump may of become air locked. Cranking with teh decompression lever ensures it is much easier and will ensure the engine does not start inadvertantly!

4. Crack open one of the injector pipes attached to the forward injector. Again crank the engine until diesel squirts from the pipe.

5. Stop cranking and tighten the injector pipe. Crank engine, drop decompression lever and away she will go.... Hopefully.

This method has never failed for me so long as there have not been other problems with the engine or fuel supply system.

Be very careful as once the engine has started there are a lot of moving parts to catch the unwary!

Hope this helps.

Steve Birch Vega "Southern Comfort" V1703
 
V

Vega1447

.
Oct 19, 2019
921
Albin Vega 27 Limerick
Hi Steve
you mentioned step 3 to me a year ago - I had spent hours trying to
start the engine without success!

As you say - for some reason bleeding the high pressure injection pump
is not mentioned in the MD6/7 manual.

Thanks again from all us novice diesel mechanics..

John

V 1447 Breakaway

Steve Birch wrote:
 
P

prius12002

.
Oct 30, 2019
27
I know nothing about these engines (and precious little about others, come to think of it), but I am told that on many engines with a wet exhaust, sea water will pile up in the exhaust system and eventually get sucked into the engine if you crank the engine too long without starting it. Sometimes this will happen in less than a minute.

If you're not using some kind of a manual pump to push the fuel through, consider closing the cooling water intake if you're cranking the engine for any length of time. And, of course, don't forget to open it again for the start.

Bill
 
W

wxt8981

.
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi Bill;
you're so right! Cranking the engine without firing could get you water back into the engine. I forgot to mention this, because I have a riser at the mixing elbow, meaning any water will flow out the exhaust.
If you still worry about water coming back to the engine, as far as know, every "muffler" has a drain srew. Just don't forget to close it when done (the boat wont sink, but all the water from the exhaust will drain back into the bilge.)
Wilhelm, V-257
 
S

stevebirch2002

.
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi All

Sailing Today is doing an article on the Vega and need a Line Drawing and/or plan of the Vega. As high resolution as possible.

Any ideas?

Steve B (steve@...)
 
B

bty757213

.
Jul 13, 2007
5
Hi Steve,

There is a lines plan on page one of the Vega handbook, it covers half a side of one page (A4). I can scan and E-Mail this to you if any use.

regards,
Alan Haynes

________________________________
From: Steve Birch steve@...
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 4 March, 2009 6:32:20 PM
Subject: [AlbinVega] Line Drawing of the Vega NeededHi All

Sailing Today is doing an article on the Vega and need a Line Drawing and/or plan of the Vega. As high resolution as possible.

Any ideas?

Steve B (steve@albinvega. com)
 
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