Fuel tank removal?

[CowboyWay]

On my 2000 c310, I seem to have a leak coming from the bottom of the tank as there’s fuel accumulating around the tank inside the tray. I soak it up with oil absorbing towels and it quickly replaces the fuel in that space. I emptied the tank into jugs using the fuel line going to the engine. That seems to have gotten most of it but imagine there’s still some more in the tank below the pickup?

I read what others did to remove the tank, some without major cutting. from these pics, can you tell the best plan to remove it?

 

[jssailem]

It looks tight, but by removing the hoses, the duct work, perhaps the water pump and the hold down you may have 5 inches that will allow you to lift the tank over the capture basin lip and pull it towards where you are taking the image. Not sure if you can then remove it as that is all I can see in the image.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Hi @CowboyWay. I often like to drop myself into other peoples problems and wonder "what the $^%#&* would I do in this guy's situation?"

I see your tank is aluminum and has likely suffered a corrosion perforation. Water, diesel fuel, bacterial growth are not a good mix in Al. If not yet corrosion, don't worry, it'll be coming and soon.

My first thought is that I would take the Al tank out in small pieces with a Sawsall.

You are not going to want to do the Al thing again so consider nothing but HDPE at whatever the recommended thickness is these days. It looks like space would be at a premium there so I would consider two PE tanks (off the shelf at best $ or custom fabricated at worst $ $ $ $) that could be put into the existing footprint with a minimum loss of volume. Looks like they would be of similar shape and volume and fit side by side with min. clearance within the surrounding dam structure.

I'd consider an equalizing level line consisting of 1" dia fuel hose near the bottom of the two tanks in the front face. You ordinarily do NOT want bottom fittings on a fuel tank so these must go on only the front faces to ensure ease of access for any required leak repair. Tank filling would be through a split filling line to both tanks. Lots of other details but this is would be the initial thought.

 

[Steve_Catalina]

Cowboyway, most (I always assumed all) tankage on Catalina's can be removed
without cutting the tank or the boat to remove. If you have not yet checked go to your international site, catalina310.org good luck

 

[john2]

I see the original boiler is still there... that one must be leaking also or about to go.
tank removal goes through the hatch at boiler side. SB opening is (i believe) bigger in size. SB propane holder must be lifted for extra height. and goodluck climbing in and out.

 

[CowboyWay]

SB propane holder must be lifted

How do you do that?

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I'd pressure test the tank to confirm that it is the culprit before embarking on a larger project filled with colorful language. You might be able to add a UV dye to trace the leak

Does anyone know of a liquid tank liner that might work to seal it? Hopefully our resident chemists will chime in here. I know one of them has extensive experience in this field

 

[CowboyWay]

I’m also curious if others have had success with a temporary fix using jb weld tankweld or similar if it’s a bottom corner that’s leaking? Looking to buy time for 3 months to get through the summer before pursuing a tank replacement. I’m thinking I could remove the upper wood brace which would allow me to lift the front edge out and expose the leak. This assumes it’s along the front edge. If so I could patch it? I’ll note I already replaced the fuel lines themselves.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I’m also curious if others have had success with a temporary fix using jb weld tankweld or similar if it’s a bottom corner that’s leaking? Looking to buy time for 3 months to get through the summer before pursuing a tank replacement. I’m thinking I could remove the upper wood brace which would allow me to lift the front edge out and expose the leak. This assumes it’s along the front edge. If so I could patch it? I’ll note I already replaced the fuel lines themselves.

You could switch to an aftermarket portable tank for the time being

 

[jssailem]

You can always try to do a patch. They generally do not work out. They are on the outside. This means the fluid will come up against the patch and work on the edges of the material til it finds a weak spot and then weeps out again. I swear I have heard water doing that on ports that I tried to patch. It sounded like tittering laughter.

 

[CowboyWay]

Would a temp tank that is just a 5 gallon diesel can (plastic) work? Cap off the return line. Just connect the supply feed to the fuel water separator and provide a vent line to the outside? Tie it down to secure it.

 

[jssailem]

Would a temp tank that is just a 5 gallon diesel can (plastic) work?

Of Course.
Especially if your just using the auxillary to get in and out of the marina.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Would a temp tank that is just a 5 gallon diesel can (plastic) work? Cap off the return line. Just connect the supply feed to the fuel water separator and provide a vent line to the outside? Tie it down to secure it.

I know the C30's with the M25 will work without a fuel pump if the fuel level is high enough. I imagine if the temp tank was raised high enough it'd work. I think you could be up and running in an hour or two.

 

[dmax]

Take it to a good Al welder - some people have had the whole bottom panel replaced for much less than a new tank.

 

[john2]

How do you do that?

under the lid from the top (outside the boat) there are screws.