Hi, I have an Oday 28 and looking for help from anyone who’s har issues with the wood box that holds the fuels tank in place. My boat had an 18 gallon tank. I noticed the tank is tipping down (as the tank goes from stern forward) . Looks like a problem with the wood box structure that holds the tank level. The tank shifted forward about 1 inch. And sitting on the hull now. I believe there used to be a wood frame below the tank that graduated up as it went from stern forward that kept the tank level. Anyone have any experience with the wood box structure? what’s suppose to be there and best way to fix it?
Fuel Tank, fixing the wood box that holds in place
- Thread starter Riga
- Start date
My O'28 tank box started to fail. Did a wrap around the vertical sides with biaxial fiberglass. Took two of us. One in the lazarette the other in the stbd berth accessing over the removed batteries. The floor of the tank was supported with low expanding foam. The following owner of 8 yrs now was shown the repair, and has not had any problems. That repair was probably done 15-16 yrs ago.
Thanks for the reply. When you say “The Following owner of 8 years now has shown the repair…” are you’re referring to a post where I can see what someone to fix it? I like your idea about the expanding foam. I believe the tank is supports to be held off the hull the farther stern by a 1”X1” framing support the ram the width of the box. I’m not sure what originally held the front end of the box up but figure that he’d to be at least a 2” wide frame in order to keep the tank level given the slow up hill as it moves forward. So my next question is how did you prop up the tank to hold in place to all the foam material to be applied and dry?
I removed mine and built a new frame using PVC board. Here are some pics. They are not in timeline, but you can see some sort of proccedure. If you want to know more PM me.
Looks good.. I see that your raw water intake is set up the same way that mine used to be. It was changed to move the valve parallel to the hull from the vertical. This allowed for a PVC pipe with a T handle to easily open and close the thru hull. If interested PM me and I'll explain it detail..
Do you mean like this?
When I replaced all the thruhulls, I decided to change the angle and handle direction primarily for strength reasons. But thanks for noticing this and offering your thoughts.
EXACTLY like that.. The PVC pipe had a glued on female thread.. Threaded into that was a copper thread to sweat adapter.. The sweat end was cut to the same width of the thru hull valve handle. the T on the top was oriented to align with the slot in the copper.. Thus is indicated open and closed. Nothing was rustable..PVC & copper.. The new owner of the boat loves it..