I would like to install a 'SeaBuilt' access plate system on the 10-11 gal. poly fuel tank on my Hunter 28.5 to provide acess for cleaning the tank. Typically, I'd expect to center the opening on the top of the tank and assume I can reach most or all of the sides and bottom and not interfere with the existing fuel pick-up and fuel gauge. Has anyone used this product or recently cut open a poly fuel tank for this type of installation that can suggest how to determine if there are baffles or how to work around them if necessary?
Fuel Tank Access Plate
- Thread starter s sauer
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Safety concerns
So, your going to crawl down into a confined area, then drill holes into a diesel tank? I'd be kind of concerned about that whole proposition - especially since drills give off tiny sparks from the brush assembly! I dont know if I would ever be so inclined. Wouldn't it be better if you took the tank out out of the boat and then did this? Then you can completely look it over for any interference issues. Good luck - and be safe!
So, your going to crawl down into a confined area, then drill holes into a diesel tank? I'd be kind of concerned about that whole proposition - especially since drills give off tiny sparks from the brush assembly! I dont know if I would ever be so inclined. Wouldn't it be better if you took the tank out out of the boat and then did this? Then you can completely look it over for any interference issues. Good luck - and be safe!
S...
I put a SeaBuilt 8" access port in my H34' poly tank last weekend. GuyT's concern is a valid one. I removed all the diesel fuel from the tank first using the fuel polisher I built into jerry cans. I used the top gasket to draw the cut-out on the top of the tank. I wrapped a shop rag around the cordless drill and drilled a 3/8" hole just inside the circle to insert a jig-saw blade (saw also rag-wrapped) in and then cut out the opening. I used the top gasket again to mark out the bolt holes and drilled them out. I also then drilled a mounting hole for a fuel gage sender. I poked an enclosed shop drop light in the hole to see what mess was there to be cleaned out and found my fuel polisher pickup tube had ended at the deeped part of the tank, removing all fluids. The poly fuel tank is roto-molded so there's no baffles in them to be concerned about. I used a paint scrapper to scrape all the muck I could reach into one corner and removed it with shop rags, including all the plastic debris from cutting/drilling. Once the tank was cleaned I installed the fuel gage sender unit, closed up the access port, and pumped the jerry cans back into the tank, repositioned some fuel lines, bled the system, and fired up the engine. A half hour later the filter vacuum gage had hardly moved. Piece of mind -- PRICELESS! Pictures still in the camera--will post later in the week. If you are the least bit skilled mechanically you should be able to do this with ease. The SeaBuilt product is great!
I put a SeaBuilt 8" access port in my H34' poly tank last weekend. GuyT's concern is a valid one. I removed all the diesel fuel from the tank first using the fuel polisher I built into jerry cans. I used the top gasket to draw the cut-out on the top of the tank. I wrapped a shop rag around the cordless drill and drilled a 3/8" hole just inside the circle to insert a jig-saw blade (saw also rag-wrapped) in and then cut out the opening. I used the top gasket again to mark out the bolt holes and drilled them out. I also then drilled a mounting hole for a fuel gage sender. I poked an enclosed shop drop light in the hole to see what mess was there to be cleaned out and found my fuel polisher pickup tube had ended at the deeped part of the tank, removing all fluids. The poly fuel tank is roto-molded so there's no baffles in them to be concerned about. I used a paint scrapper to scrape all the muck I could reach into one corner and removed it with shop rags, including all the plastic debris from cutting/drilling. Once the tank was cleaned I installed the fuel gage sender unit, closed up the access port, and pumped the jerry cans back into the tank, repositioned some fuel lines, bled the system, and fired up the engine. A half hour later the filter vacuum gage had hardly moved. Piece of mind -- PRICELESS! Pictures still in the camera--will post later in the week. If you are the least bit skilled mechanically you should be able to do this with ease. The SeaBuilt product is great!
Fuel Tank Access
Thanks Guy and Dan for your input and good advice. You make a good point about the precautions necessary for sparks from power tool brushes, and the access is reasonably good as the top of the tank is the bottom of a very large sail locker. I've emptied the tank, but obviously there will be some fuel left along with what ever residue I need to clean out. Did you create a new opening for your fuel polishing pick-up or did you use the existing fuel pick-up location? I have the SeaBuilt access plate in hand and I agree it is a very well made asembly. About how long did it take to do the installation? Thanks again for your input.
Thanks Guy and Dan for your input and good advice. You make a good point about the precautions necessary for sparks from power tool brushes, and the access is reasonably good as the top of the tank is the bottom of a very large sail locker. I've emptied the tank, but obviously there will be some fuel left along with what ever residue I need to clean out. Did you create a new opening for your fuel polishing pick-up or did you use the existing fuel pick-up location? I have the SeaBuilt access plate in hand and I agree it is a very well made asembly. About how long did it take to do the installation? Thanks again for your input.
Dia.,? SS or Alum.?
Stuart, since you have the SeaBuilt in hand...which diameter did you choose and did you follow their recommendation as to Aluminum preferrred over SS? A picture of your SeaBuilt installed (to confirm location) w/ "Lessons Learned" would be appreciated by many, but that's an assumption. Good luck with your install.
Stuart, since you have the SeaBuilt in hand...which diameter did you choose and did you follow their recommendation as to Aluminum preferrred over SS? A picture of your SeaBuilt installed (to confirm location) w/ "Lessons Learned" would be appreciated by many, but that's an assumption. Good luck with your install.
SeaBuilt
The outside diameter is 6" and the actual opening is 4"; both the top cover plate and the mounting rings are over an 1/8" thick Aluminum and the eight bolts are 1/4" stainless steel. I'm hoping to do the installation next weekend and will try to remember to take a digital camera. The clean up is more for my piece of mind after 21 seasons but there was some dirt specs in the last quart of fuel and what seemed like some clear residue. I kept putting back some clean filtered fuel and re-pumping it out the fuel pick-up, still getting dirt specs and the unknown residue. I replaced the flexible fuel lines and wanted to start with a clean tank clean out the fuel pick-up and install new filters for the new lower sulfur fuel.
The outside diameter is 6" and the actual opening is 4"; both the top cover plate and the mounting rings are over an 1/8" thick Aluminum and the eight bolts are 1/4" stainless steel. I'm hoping to do the installation next weekend and will try to remember to take a digital camera. The clean up is more for my piece of mind after 21 seasons but there was some dirt specs in the last quart of fuel and what seemed like some clear residue. I kept putting back some clean filtered fuel and re-pumping it out the fuel pick-up, still getting dirt specs and the unknown residue. I replaced the flexible fuel lines and wanted to start with a clean tank clean out the fuel pick-up and install new filters for the new lower sulfur fuel.
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