RichH, thanks for the info. I have Googled knock out pots and can't find anything which would suit my needs as far as size goes. Can you explain the clear hose with two cock valves set up ?
I understand the principle of inverting a fuel filter and I am thinking that a line from the filter base (now at the top) could be a return line to the tank with a very fine restriction so as not to interfere with fuel pressure to the injectors but let the air out of the trap.
I would love to hear your comments.
Here's the process.
Basic Physics Concept - If the oil is slowed sufficiently in velocity, any entrained air will have dwell time to separate and rise to the top of the mixture. The knock out pot provided the time for the phase separation of oil versus air:
A bowl side up / head side down carbon steel filter housing and NO filter is installed in a pressurized section of the fuel line.
With both inlet and outlet on the bottom, any air entrained oil slows down due to the expanded volume of the filter housing and allows the air to rise to the top of the assembly (the bowl portion).
To the normal drain port of the bowl a cock valve (A) is applied and further connected to a translucent tube (Tygon etc.) connected to a second (and higher in altitude) cock valve (B).
In air knock-out operation, valve A is left open, valve B is closed.
When air accumulates in the (inverted) bowl it will displace the oil in the tube and you will see the color change difference between oil and air.
When color change occurs denoting air is present, open valve B, let the pressurized oil rise to displace the air in the bowl ... until oil almost completely fills the tube, then close valve B.
Valve A is a safety valve and is normally closed during 'normal' conditions.
Disadvantage in a typical vacuum motive boat fuel system .... the knock out pot is downstream of the lift pump. The lift pump will occasionally be pumping air, air/oil mixture, and oil ... the action of the internal action of the lift pump diaphragm will tend to 'chop up' large slugs of air and create small slugs/bubbles of 'foamed oil' ... the smaller the air bubbles, the longer it takes to 'rise' in a knockout pot.
For Water removal, the above knock out pot is inverted: ie. 'bowl down'.
Lastly, If this is a 'serious' boat intended for long distance passage making or long distance coastal cruising, Id recommend that the tank be altered with a better internal baffle arrangement ... OR consider to replace the present tank with one that has
sufficient and
'effective' internal baffles ... to mitigate the 'sloshing' and oil impact with the tank walls, etc. that is causing the air/oil mixing/foaming.
From your description given, there is an exponentially high probability that your tank clearly has insufficient or ineffective internal baffles. The knock out pot system fixes the symptoms, not the problem ... which most probably and based on you description/symptoms is poor tank internal design.
If this is a recent 'new' boat, such correction should be covered under warranty by Bene.; if not, Id still contact Beneteau as they may have a 'workaround' ... such as baffle 'inserts', etc. available, etc.
