I have a fuel leak (Yanmar engine) and took paper towels and dried all of the piping and fuel pump....I then started the engine and let it run 10 minutes, I blotted all areas that were previously dried and found some fuel leaking from the pump...can this pump be removed, repaired and reinstalled without the enging being removed. I can feel the bolts holding the pump on but cant see the pump very well....any help thanks.
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Part#
If you have a 2GM Yanmar engine the part # for the fuel pump is 121256-52020. Two bolts hold it to the block. Check under sink for access door to engine compartment, if not make one.
If you have a 2GM Yanmar engine the part # for the fuel pump is 121256-52020. Two bolts hold it to the block. Check under sink for access door to engine compartment, if not make one.
Easy fix
Provided you can get to it, the fuel pump is easily replaced. They leak whenever someone overtightens either of the top screws, strippng the aluminum threads. It happens so frequently that my ship store keeps them in stock. Hint: When restoring the fuel, use a West System syringe to load as much into the cannister and through the final fuel bleed screw to avoid having to pump. Should fire up pronto.
Provided you can get to it, the fuel pump is easily replaced. They leak whenever someone overtightens either of the top screws, strippng the aluminum threads. It happens so frequently that my ship store keeps them in stock. Hint: When restoring the fuel, use a West System syringe to load as much into the cannister and through the final fuel bleed screw to avoid having to pump. Should fire up pronto.
Check the fuel line connections first
If your engine runs well and you have no diesel fuel showing up in your crankcase oil, the fuel pump bladder is intact. You may want to check the actual location of that leak again. Typically one side of the low pressure fuel pump is a rubber fuel line with hose clamp to the fuel pump and the line running to the engine fuel filter is a metal fuel line with copper washers. Either of those connections could be loose and leak, and the copper washer should be replaced if you remove that or any other fuel line connection utilizing copper washers. You should replace the rubber fuel line and the copper washers if you do change out the fuel pump. Also make sure to insert the new fuel pump into the engine block with it's actuating arm on the cam, not alongside it, as something will bend or break when you tighten the mounting bolts or turnover the engine if the parts are not aligned properly.
If your engine runs well and you have no diesel fuel showing up in your crankcase oil, the fuel pump bladder is intact. You may want to check the actual location of that leak again. Typically one side of the low pressure fuel pump is a rubber fuel line with hose clamp to the fuel pump and the line running to the engine fuel filter is a metal fuel line with copper washers. Either of those connections could be loose and leak, and the copper washer should be replaced if you remove that or any other fuel line connection utilizing copper washers. You should replace the rubber fuel line and the copper washers if you do change out the fuel pump. Also make sure to insert the new fuel pump into the engine block with it's actuating arm on the cam, not alongside it, as something will bend or break when you tighten the mounting bolts or turnover the engine if the parts are not aligned properly.
fuel pump leak
Thanks guys I found the leak to be from the copper washers leading from the pump to the metal fuel line...replaced and all is well.
Thanks guys I found the leak to be from the copper washers leading from the pump to the metal fuel line...replaced and all is well.
I want to pass on an old hot rodder trick I learn
-ed in the 60s on my Honda. Copper gaskets do not have to be replaced. All that is needed is to heat them over a hot flame such as a propane burner. Get 'em hot. You'll see the color change. The best thing to do then is dip them in cold water, like annealing copper pipe after soldering refer tubing. That will make it brand new. I never dipped copper though, none of them, head gaskets included, ever failed.
-ed in the 60s on my Honda. Copper gaskets do not have to be replaced. All that is needed is to heat them over a hot flame such as a propane burner. Get 'em hot. You'll see the color change. The best thing to do then is dip them in cold water, like annealing copper pipe after soldering refer tubing. That will make it brand new. I never dipped copper though, none of them, head gaskets included, ever failed.
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