Fuel Lines 1993 H33.5 Leaking

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Jeff

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Sep 29, 2008
195
Hunter 33.5 Carlyle Lake in Central Illinois
I've been waiting 6 months to splash the boat. Yesterday was that big day. Well, the boat was wet for two minutes or so. Fired the engine up and as it ran I went down below to check for leaks while hanging in the lift. I found fuel was being pumped from behing my aft cabin bulkhead and ran all over the place. Logic states that is must be my return fuel line or the engine would not have run. Both the supply and return will now be replaced but access is a bitch. The aft bulkhead can't be removed without major deconstruction. I guess I could cut a hole in the bulkhead but I have no idea how much clearance for a hole saw or jig saw is available. Has anyone already done the head scratching on this project? :confused:
 

tcbro

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Jun 3, 2004
375
Hunter 33.5 Middle River, MD
I've replaced the fuel tank on mine

Jeff,

2 seasons ago I had to replace the entire fuel tank on my '92 H33.5. My advice is to leave the aft cabin bulkhead intact. For one, the fuel tank is about 1/2" away on the other side. Even though it is aluminum you risk damaging it with a hole saw. Secondly, I liked the idea of a solid (though thin) bulkhead between my fuel tank and my sleeping qtrs.

I went through the locker floor. I was looking for an excuse to buy a sawzall anyway. You may be able to use the holesaw to gain access to the fittings but I had to cut the entire floor out to remove and replace the tank. I unscrewed it along the forward and aft bulkheads and cut fore and aft about 1"-2" inside of the electric panel and also cut fore and aft as close to the boats centerline as the walk through would allow.

When it came time to re-construct I removed the support cleats along the forward and aft bulkheads where I had cut the floor away and remounted them higher to be even with what was left of the floor by the electric panel and under the walkthrough. I used the old floor as a pattern for the new floor and just added 2" on each end to sit on the old floor and the repositioned cleats. Coated the new 3/4" plywood floor with epoxy, painted it and screwed it in place. Oh, I also made an access panel in the new floor so I can get to the fittings anytime I want, at least anytime I want to remove the batteries.
 
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