The fuel filter canister on my 1981 Hunter 30 is , I believe a Perko 299 (can't really make out the number). Does anyone know where to obtain the filter (I have not opened it up yet -so I'm not sure what's in it), what size, etc. or should I spring for a new one and if so what - type, size, primer, etc. The engine is a 2GM 13HP. What would the procedure be to replace, for example - bleeding .
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Is this the one?
See Related Link. Is that a 2GM or 2QM? Anyway this link looks like the filter on my 2QM20. But I gutted it because the filter-element "rots" and clogs the line. I have a good RACOR immediately following the Perko. I had to remove the Perko from the bulkhead and put it in a big shop vise to get it apart. Yes, after working on it you will need to bleed the air out of the lines. You can do it with the manual pump but I usually have the wife just touch the starter a few times. Once for the bleed valve on the primary filter and once for each injector. It helps if you first fill the "cans" with diesel.
See Related Link. Is that a 2GM or 2QM? Anyway this link looks like the filter on my 2QM20. But I gutted it because the filter-element "rots" and clogs the line. I have a good RACOR immediately following the Perko. I had to remove the Perko from the bulkhead and put it in a big shop vise to get it apart. Yes, after working on it you will need to bleed the air out of the lines. You can do it with the manual pump but I usually have the wife just touch the starter a few times. Once for the bleed valve on the primary filter and once for each injector. It helps if you first fill the "cans" with diesel.
yes
That's the one, thanks, it really helps to know what it looks like before you pull it apart. Just curious why did you gut it and not just replace it. What kind of Racor would you recommend? BTW it is a 2GM.
That's the one, thanks, it really helps to know what it looks like before you pull it apart. Just curious why did you gut it and not just replace it. What kind of Racor would you recommend? BTW it is a 2GM.
Racor 110A. . .
is what you want I think, see Related Link. You could call or write Torresen Marine(www.torresen.com) to confirm. I get my filter inserts from them, about $9.00 I think. Change it every year. I gutted the old one because it was redundant with the Racor. I did not want to buy inserts that I found to be deteriorating and clogging the lines. I should have removed it completely but that would necessitate installing a new(longer) fuel line from the tank to the Racor.
is what you want I think, see Related Link. You could call or write Torresen Marine(www.torresen.com) to confirm. I get my filter inserts from them, about $9.00 I think. Change it every year. I gutted the old one because it was redundant with the Racor. I did not want to buy inserts that I found to be deteriorating and clogging the lines. I should have removed it completely but that would necessitate installing a new(longer) fuel line from the tank to the Racor.
I'm impressed! $102.00 for that piece of
crap??!!! I pulled the one thay came on mu 33 out and heaved it into the furthest reaches of my boat stuff shed. (Yes, I realy do have an 8' x 10' shed devoted to boat stuff. This is where the oops and what the heck did I buy this for stuff goes.) I should put the old Perko up for sale on e-bay. Might help pay for the shed. I put in a Racor, but it's a slightly bigger model, RS 220 or something similar. It's the unit Mack Boring sells with the self contained priming pump. Cost just a bit over $100.00 at Boat US about 5 years ago. Elements run $18.00 to $22.00 depending. At 2 microns it keeps fuel squeaky clean.
crap??!!! I pulled the one thay came on mu 33 out and heaved it into the furthest reaches of my boat stuff shed. (Yes, I realy do have an 8' x 10' shed devoted to boat stuff. This is where the oops and what the heck did I buy this for stuff goes.) I should put the old Perko up for sale on e-bay. Might help pay for the shed. I put in a Racor, but it's a slightly bigger model, RS 220 or something similar. It's the unit Mack Boring sells with the self contained priming pump. Cost just a bit over $100.00 at Boat US about 5 years ago. Elements run $18.00 to $22.00 depending. At 2 microns it keeps fuel squeaky clean.
2 vs 10 micron Filter
It would seem like going with a 2 micron filter would be beter to keep the fuel clean. However, there is another school of thought that says that the finer filter puts an increased strain on the fuel pump which can cause premature failure. It was explained to me that a pinhole leak in the pump diaphram will cause fuel to leak into the oil pan (and cause really big problems). I used to run 2-micron filters until a couple years ago when, based on the above from a knowledgeable person (at Doc Freeman, Seattle) who sells Yanmars, I decided to switch to 10-micron. Cleaning the fuel tank is on my "to-do" list.
It would seem like going with a 2 micron filter would be beter to keep the fuel clean. However, there is another school of thought that says that the finer filter puts an increased strain on the fuel pump which can cause premature failure. It was explained to me that a pinhole leak in the pump diaphram will cause fuel to leak into the oil pan (and cause really big problems). I used to run 2-micron filters until a couple years ago when, based on the above from a knowledgeable person (at Doc Freeman, Seattle) who sells Yanmars, I decided to switch to 10-micron. Cleaning the fuel tank is on my "to-do" list.
fuel pump pressure
I have a slightly different version of fuel filtering on my H33. There is a Fram PH8A filter (your basic automotive oil filter) just before the Racor filter/seperator. This is to take out gross contamanints before the Racor gets clogged. After the Racor there is the Westerbeke fuel pump with a filter attached. Westerbeke also has another filter further along in the system, this one with a magnet to determine if any metal chips are in the system. Along with the fuel pump/filter is a simple fuel pressure guage. This guage allows me to see what pressure the fuel pump is pulling, increased pressure and I know the system is getting clogged before the engine stalls. Also, I pump my tank out every year and visually inspect the bottom of the tank myself and use a biocide with every tank. I've found that by doing these things I've never (great, now I'm screwed) had fuel problems, yet.....
I have a slightly different version of fuel filtering on my H33. There is a Fram PH8A filter (your basic automotive oil filter) just before the Racor filter/seperator. This is to take out gross contamanints before the Racor gets clogged. After the Racor there is the Westerbeke fuel pump with a filter attached. Westerbeke also has another filter further along in the system, this one with a magnet to determine if any metal chips are in the system. Along with the fuel pump/filter is a simple fuel pressure guage. This guage allows me to see what pressure the fuel pump is pulling, increased pressure and I know the system is getting clogged before the engine stalls. Also, I pump my tank out every year and visually inspect the bottom of the tank myself and use a biocide with every tank. I've found that by doing these things I've never (great, now I'm screwed) had fuel problems, yet.....
Fuel filter ?'s
Here's a thought. Use the more expensive Racor 500 series with a 10 micron filter. This unit has a top load filter element, which makes changes easier (read: no bleeding). The Yanmar filter mounted on the engine is 2 mcn. So any primary fliter should be more coarse and larger in size. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
Here's a thought. Use the more expensive Racor 500 series with a 10 micron filter. This unit has a top load filter element, which makes changes easier (read: no bleeding). The Yanmar filter mounted on the engine is 2 mcn. So any primary fliter should be more coarse and larger in size. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
Thoughts on fuel filtering
Generally, my feeling is more is better. The Racor I installed is WAY, WAY oversized. Restriction in an otherwise properly engineered and functioning system is generaly caused by "stuff" filling the teensy weensy openings in the element. To elininate the problem. go for a same size element with a larder particle size rating, ie: 10 micron vs. 2, or go for a much larger volume element with appropriate housing to the finer rating. That was what I went for, and have had no concerns ever since. For additional peace of mind I spliced in a low pressure (2 1/2 psi) electric pump fuel (Pep Boys, about $30) between the tank and the Racor. There is of course, a coarse, in-line strainer-filter between the tank and electric pump just to make sure none of the big nasties get to the pump. The pump simplifies bleeding the system, and the way I have it set up I can use it to recirculate fuel through the Racor and back to the tank or use it to empty the tank. The OE Yanmar 2 micron filter is still in line on the engine as a backup, but since installing the Racor I've never seen anything in it when replacing it and that's just the way I like it!
Generally, my feeling is more is better. The Racor I installed is WAY, WAY oversized. Restriction in an otherwise properly engineered and functioning system is generaly caused by "stuff" filling the teensy weensy openings in the element. To elininate the problem. go for a same size element with a larder particle size rating, ie: 10 micron vs. 2, or go for a much larger volume element with appropriate housing to the finer rating. That was what I went for, and have had no concerns ever since. For additional peace of mind I spliced in a low pressure (2 1/2 psi) electric pump fuel (Pep Boys, about $30) between the tank and the Racor. There is of course, a coarse, in-line strainer-filter between the tank and electric pump just to make sure none of the big nasties get to the pump. The pump simplifies bleeding the system, and the way I have it set up I can use it to recirculate fuel through the Racor and back to the tank or use it to empty the tank. The OE Yanmar 2 micron filter is still in line on the engine as a backup, but since installing the Racor I've never seen anything in it when replacing it and that's just the way I like it!
Sam, a ?
Is your low pressure pump up stream or downstream from the Racor? Most of the larger racor's have a check valve which don't alow them to be pressurized. Pat
Is your low pressure pump up stream or downstream from the Racor? Most of the larger racor's have a check valve which don't alow them to be pressurized. Pat
In order:
Fuel tank, coarse see through in-line screen/filter, electric fuel pump, Racor, mechanical diaphram fuel pump on engine, Yanmar on board orriginal filter, then to the injection pump. The filter head poses no restriction that I've seen. Fuel flows straight through and bleeds out the bleeder on the on-board filter housing. I never have to use the little pump primer on the filter housing but it's nice to know it's there. Redundancy is the beginning of peace of mind you know.
Fuel tank, coarse see through in-line screen/filter, electric fuel pump, Racor, mechanical diaphram fuel pump on engine, Yanmar on board orriginal filter, then to the injection pump. The filter head poses no restriction that I've seen. Fuel flows straight through and bleeds out the bleeder on the on-board filter housing. I never have to use the little pump primer on the filter housing but it's nice to know it's there. Redundancy is the beginning of peace of mind you know.
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