Not any experience with diesels,so want to get info on fuel filter change. The engine is a 2GM20F on a H280 1998. The boat has been sitting for about a year I have read enough to know that letting air into the fuel system is not good! So, who knows the procedure after the filter/s are changed to purge the air out of the system before our 200+ mile trip home with our new boat? Thanks for your welcome advice. Pete & Crystal Shaw
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paul arceneaux
fuel filters
changed fuel filters last friday. unscrewed racor ,filled new filter with diesel to top rim of filter. also changed the canister filter on the engine filling to the top also. cranked engine let run at idle for about ten minutes. left saturday for a weekend trip everything ran fine.
changed fuel filters last friday. unscrewed racor ,filled new filter with diesel to top rim of filter. also changed the canister filter on the engine filling to the top also. cranked engine let run at idle for about ten minutes. left saturday for a weekend trip everything ran fine.
Get someone to show you.
Pete & Crystal: I would suggest that you hire a "Yanmar Certified" mechanic and have them service your boat. You need to check/change your belts, new raw water impeller primary & secondard fuel filters and be sure to clean your air filter too. Have your hoses (fuel & water)checked. The raw water strain should be cleaned and check too. You are probably looking at 2 hours labor and parts. This is a very good time to find out about your engine before an emergency situation occurs. Since you are going to travel so far on at single time this may be like money in the bank. I would also suggest that you get an additional primary, secondary filters and an additional impeller to keep aboard.
Pete & Crystal: I would suggest that you hire a "Yanmar Certified" mechanic and have them service your boat. You need to check/change your belts, new raw water impeller primary & secondard fuel filters and be sure to clean your air filter too. Have your hoses (fuel & water)checked. The raw water strain should be cleaned and check too. You are probably looking at 2 hours labor and parts. This is a very good time to find out about your engine before an emergency situation occurs. Since you are going to travel so far on at single time this may be like money in the bank. I would also suggest that you get an additional primary, secondary filters and an additional impeller to keep aboard.
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William Berson
avoiding risk when changing filters
Good advice all around - with one exception: As the primary cause of diesel engine failure is fuel system contamination, do not pre-fill the engine-mounted filter, - - -it is the last line of defense. On that one, replace it dry, open the bleeder screw and pump manual lever on the fuel pump until no air or bubbles come out. otherwise you may introduce some crap that will clog an injector later. BTW: I have found that the sealing washer on the bleeder only lasts one or two bleeds and starts weeping, so for 25cents a pop, I replace it too, each filter change.
Good advice all around - with one exception: As the primary cause of diesel engine failure is fuel system contamination, do not pre-fill the engine-mounted filter, - - -it is the last line of defense. On that one, replace it dry, open the bleeder screw and pump manual lever on the fuel pump until no air or bubbles come out. otherwise you may introduce some crap that will clog an injector later. BTW: I have found that the sealing washer on the bleeder only lasts one or two bleeds and starts weeping, so for 25cents a pop, I replace it too, each filter change.
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Bob La Salle
There's a lot in the archives about this
Three other suggestions: (1) Be sure to fill the primary fuel filter (the one near the fuel tank) with fresh fuel before you install the new filter, then you probably will not have to bleed the line, just run the engine in the slip about 15 minutes to be sure; (2) if nothing seems to be happening when you pump the little finger bleeder lever on the engine, then just tap the starter button to re-position it; has something to do with being on the flat side of the cam so turning the engine slightly will re-position it; (3) check your fuel separator every day during your trip to be sure your tank is free of water; also fill your fuel tank with fresh fuel and proper additives, conditioner and biocide. The rest of the stuff that Steve recommends is pretty easy to do and will give you lots of confidence in your ability to troubleshoot and repair your engine.
Three other suggestions: (1) Be sure to fill the primary fuel filter (the one near the fuel tank) with fresh fuel before you install the new filter, then you probably will not have to bleed the line, just run the engine in the slip about 15 minutes to be sure; (2) if nothing seems to be happening when you pump the little finger bleeder lever on the engine, then just tap the starter button to re-position it; has something to do with being on the flat side of the cam so turning the engine slightly will re-position it; (3) check your fuel separator every day during your trip to be sure your tank is free of water; also fill your fuel tank with fresh fuel and proper additives, conditioner and biocide. The rest of the stuff that Steve recommends is pretty easy to do and will give you lots of confidence in your ability to troubleshoot and repair your engine.
B
Bill O'Donovan
Yo, William Berson
Why not pre-fill it? I keep a small tank of clean diesel for just this reason, and it precludes the tortuous exercise of pushing the silly thumb-pump that's supposed to bleed the engine.
Why not pre-fill it? I keep a small tank of clean diesel for just this reason, and it precludes the tortuous exercise of pushing the silly thumb-pump that's supposed to bleed the engine.
M
Mike
To put a point on it.....
Pete, you may have noticed that most of the posts here talk about 2 filters, not one. It is probable that your boat also has 2 fuel filters - a primary and secondary fitler. One of the filters is mounted on the engine, the other - the RACOR unit - is usually mounted to a bulkhead somewhere along the fuel line routing. The RACOR unit is usually a water/fuel separator and filter. There is a drain at the bottom of th RACOR which will allow you to bleed the separated water (if any) out of the system without having to re-bleed the fuel lines. It's a good idea to check the RACOR drain each time you head out. If your boat did not come with a Yanmar engine manual, then I recommend you invest a few bucks and buy one. In the manual it will spell out the procedure for replacing the primary fuel filter (the one attached to the engine) and how to bleed the fuel line. The RACOR filter body is a screw-in affair, so all you have to do is unscrew the body and replace.... It's always a good idea to have a spare set of filters on board in case of fouling. It can happen.
Pete, you may have noticed that most of the posts here talk about 2 filters, not one. It is probable that your boat also has 2 fuel filters - a primary and secondary fitler. One of the filters is mounted on the engine, the other - the RACOR unit - is usually mounted to a bulkhead somewhere along the fuel line routing. The RACOR unit is usually a water/fuel separator and filter. There is a drain at the bottom of th RACOR which will allow you to bleed the separated water (if any) out of the system without having to re-bleed the fuel lines. It's a good idea to check the RACOR drain each time you head out. If your boat did not come with a Yanmar engine manual, then I recommend you invest a few bucks and buy one. In the manual it will spell out the procedure for replacing the primary fuel filter (the one attached to the engine) and how to bleed the fuel line. The RACOR filter body is a screw-in affair, so all you have to do is unscrew the body and replace.... It's always a good idea to have a spare set of filters on board in case of fouling. It can happen.
C
Craig Benton
Simple.....once your there!
I was just faced with this project and my location doesn't offer certified Yanmar mechanics! Therefore as I sat with a sad face, I glanced up and one appearred. Actually just an old experienced sailor....but his timing was great. (On Mine) Just unscrew the filter bowl and remove the old filter. This is located on the front of the engine and is very simple. On the top of the filter assembly is two screws...back one off and you can see the fuel level inside. There are 2 decompression switches on top of the engine that kind of prevent starting (don't rely on that) but it does allow the engine to turn over more freely. You can use the starter to crank fuel through the system or the carburator has a pump lever on it (best). Simply pump the lever and watch fuel level rise in the bowl of the filter housing, when full close screw back and go to next end of hose. Loosen nut, pump holding a paper towel around hose end till fuel flow starts. Stop and tighten nut and continue until you reach the cylinder. Remember to close decompression switches. This whole job was 15 minutes. Really a simple process. And then you look up and the old sailor with the advice is gone.
I was just faced with this project and my location doesn't offer certified Yanmar mechanics! Therefore as I sat with a sad face, I glanced up and one appearred. Actually just an old experienced sailor....but his timing was great. (On Mine) Just unscrew the filter bowl and remove the old filter. This is located on the front of the engine and is very simple. On the top of the filter assembly is two screws...back one off and you can see the fuel level inside. There are 2 decompression switches on top of the engine that kind of prevent starting (don't rely on that) but it does allow the engine to turn over more freely. You can use the starter to crank fuel through the system or the carburator has a pump lever on it (best). Simply pump the lever and watch fuel level rise in the bowl of the filter housing, when full close screw back and go to next end of hose. Loosen nut, pump holding a paper towel around hose end till fuel flow starts. Stop and tighten nut and continue until you reach the cylinder. Remember to close decompression switches. This whole job was 15 minutes. Really a simple process. And then you look up and the old sailor with the advice is gone.
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