There are two four year old MacGregor 26x's that developed a frozen trailer wheel at the same time. Both have been used in salt water environment. How can you tell if its the wheel bearing or brake assist that has siezed up?
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Just a thought
Haven't had this happen to me yet, but here is an idea. Make sure the brake actuator is not pulled. Jack up the wheel. Pull the wheel, then try to pull the brake drum off. There may be a retaining screw. The drum should slide out. If it doesn't then the problem could be the brakes. Either way, with this kind of problem, the whole axle and brake system needs to be checked out. Frequently the bearing races are damaged when the bearing locks. Good luck!
Haven't had this happen to me yet, but here is an idea. Make sure the brake actuator is not pulled. Jack up the wheel. Pull the wheel, then try to pull the brake drum off. There may be a retaining screw. The drum should slide out. If it doesn't then the problem could be the brakes. Either way, with this kind of problem, the whole axle and brake system needs to be checked out. Frequently the bearing races are damaged when the bearing locks. Good luck!
u need to rebuild the brakes
the brakes are frozen. very common after several years in the salt. The brakes on Macgregor trailers are not galvanized and after a couple of years of being periodically dipped in salt water they will be in sad shape. The brake shoes rust and break the lining off, The springs rust and will not retract the shoes and the wheel cylinders will freeze up. Fortunately there are replacement sets that are available. They are all galvanized and use stainless steel springs. It is well worth it to buy the replacement sets. There are even "free backing" brakes available. These brakes are sold in the marine catalogs or at a trailer supply store. I would suggest also buying silicone grease and anti seize compound from an auto parts store. Apply the silicone grease to the piston in the wheel cylinder and the anti-seize to the bleeder screw, hydraulic line fitting, star wheel adjuster, where the shoes rub on the backing plates and also the mounting bolts for the backing plates. This will keep things working. add a "flush-kit" as well. total parts should be under $250.
the brakes are frozen. very common after several years in the salt. The brakes on Macgregor trailers are not galvanized and after a couple of years of being periodically dipped in salt water they will be in sad shape. The brake shoes rust and break the lining off, The springs rust and will not retract the shoes and the wheel cylinders will freeze up. Fortunately there are replacement sets that are available. They are all galvanized and use stainless steel springs. It is well worth it to buy the replacement sets. There are even "free backing" brakes available. These brakes are sold in the marine catalogs or at a trailer supply store. I would suggest also buying silicone grease and anti seize compound from an auto parts store. Apply the silicone grease to the piston in the wheel cylinder and the anti-seize to the bleeder screw, hydraulic line fitting, star wheel adjuster, where the shoes rub on the backing plates and also the mounting bolts for the backing plates. This will keep things working. add a "flush-kit" as well. total parts should be under $250.
Can convert to disc
It does sound like the shoes have rusted to the drums. If you jack up the side of the trailer and with a jack/lug handle you should be able to rock the wheel back and forth until it frees up. My suburban does this when ever we get flooding so just rock it back and forth… If you want you can get a disc brake kit from MacGregor to convert the trailer to stainless steel disc brakes. IMHO this is the ultimate way to go. I have attached the link below. Good luck, be patient it will break free eventually (eventually). mark
It does sound like the shoes have rusted to the drums. If you jack up the side of the trailer and with a jack/lug handle you should be able to rock the wheel back and forth until it frees up. My suburban does this when ever we get flooding so just rock it back and forth… If you want you can get a disc brake kit from MacGregor to convert the trailer to stainless steel disc brakes. IMHO this is the ultimate way to go. I have attached the link below. Good luck, be patient it will break free eventually (eventually). mark
could be delaminated brake linings
i had the same problem and i think the other posts have it right. in my case, the brake lining delaminated, got loose and ended up wedging itself in an non-delaminted section. woundn't budge. turned out to be easiest to pull off the crown nut, remove the outer bearing and pull both the wheel with the drum attached. you should also check the bearings ... they'll probably be full of grit and need replacing.
i had the same problem and i think the other posts have it right. in my case, the brake lining delaminated, got loose and ended up wedging itself in an non-delaminted section. woundn't budge. turned out to be easiest to pull off the crown nut, remove the outer bearing and pull both the wheel with the drum attached. you should also check the bearings ... they'll probably be full of grit and need replacing.
frozen wheel
I also agree, if you have drum brakes they have rusted to the drum. the quick solution is pull the wheel and hit the drum with a 3-5 lb hammer. (on the flat face of the drum) this should break the rust point. then remove the drum, toss the brake shoes and rebuild. I'd not recommend putting the brake shoes back on if you use in salt water. get the expensive ss disk brake kit or slow down and brake in a stright line. bearings are probably ok, but you'll want to replace them too if you go in there.
I also agree, if you have drum brakes they have rusted to the drum. the quick solution is pull the wheel and hit the drum with a 3-5 lb hammer. (on the flat face of the drum) this should break the rust point. then remove the drum, toss the brake shoes and rebuild. I'd not recommend putting the brake shoes back on if you use in salt water. get the expensive ss disk brake kit or slow down and brake in a stright line. bearings are probably ok, but you'll want to replace them too if you go in there.
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