A number of my seacocks appear to be frozen in the open position on my 1980 Hunter 30. They have not been closed in years. I was planning to take off the hoses (which I have double clamped) and spray WD-40 in, to help unfreeze the seacocks. Some of the valves are probably gate valves and replacing them would be a good thing to do anyway, as I understand it. If I have to replace the valves, will I be able to get them off of the thru hulls that they are attached to, or will I have to replace the thru hulls as well? If anyone has tackled this already, I would appreciate any insight you can give me.
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Pete
replacing thur hull
JUST MY TWO CENTS WORTH,BUT ON A TWENTY YEAR OLD BOAT I WOULD REPLACE ALL MY THUR HULLS AND SEA COCK JUST BECAUSE THEY ARE THAT OLD AND SUBJECT TO THE MARINE ENVIROMENT WOULD BE WORTH THE COST AND EFFORT FOR THE PIECE OF MIND ! GOOD LUCK!
JUST MY TWO CENTS WORTH,BUT ON A TWENTY YEAR OLD BOAT I WOULD REPLACE ALL MY THUR HULLS AND SEA COCK JUST BECAUSE THEY ARE THAT OLD AND SUBJECT TO THE MARINE ENVIROMENT WOULD BE WORTH THE COST AND EFFORT FOR THE PIECE OF MIND ! GOOD LUCK!
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Jim McCue
seacocks open?
You should have those seacocks closed every time you return to port.! Open them only when you need em open.
You should have those seacocks closed every time you return to port.! Open them only when you need em open.
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Tim Op't Holt
valve replacement
My '85 H31 had the original valves until last summer. When I had the boat pulled, the yard manager inspected them and recommended replacement of the head and engine coolant valves, which were replaced with ball valves. One of the through-hulls was badly corroded, so it was replaced. Next time it is pulled, in 2-3 years, I'll probably have the others replaced. It was not expensive and worth having done for safety's sake.
My '85 H31 had the original valves until last summer. When I had the boat pulled, the yard manager inspected them and recommended replacement of the head and engine coolant valves, which were replaced with ball valves. One of the through-hulls was badly corroded, so it was replaced. Next time it is pulled, in 2-3 years, I'll probably have the others replaced. It was not expensive and worth having done for safety's sake.
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Kenny Logsdon
What is the best valve replacement
I have a H 28.5 and want to replace all the seacocks too. Although I have no appearant problems with the current gate valves, the boat is current hauled and I want to take the opportunity to replace them now. Is there some reason why I cannot use the Applo ball valves carried by West Mairne. The catalog says they are not seacocks but I don't know why they won't be fine for my application. Does anyone know of a better valve that can be used without disturbng the thru-hulls? The boat is a fresh water boat an the thru-hulls seem okay. Any thoughts would be appriciated. Thanks, Kenny H28.5 "St. Somewhere"
I have a H 28.5 and want to replace all the seacocks too. Although I have no appearant problems with the current gate valves, the boat is current hauled and I want to take the opportunity to replace them now. Is there some reason why I cannot use the Applo ball valves carried by West Mairne. The catalog says they are not seacocks but I don't know why they won't be fine for my application. Does anyone know of a better valve that can be used without disturbng the thru-hulls? The boat is a fresh water boat an the thru-hulls seem okay. Any thoughts would be appriciated. Thanks, Kenny H28.5 "St. Somewhere"
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Eric
Seacocks, 28.5
I am also in the process of replacing the gate valves on my 28.5. The issue in the West Marine catalog is twofold. The Apollo ballvalves are chromeplated brass balls while the seacocks are chrome plated bronze balls. Not an issue in freshwater and probably not much of one in saltwater if carefuuly watched over the years. The second issue is that thru hulls are staight male threads. Seacocks are straight female threads so the seacock can be screwed down tight against the wood backing plate and screwed into the hull. Ball vaves have tapered threads. Now you will notice that your thru hulls have bronze nuts which allows the thru hull to be tightened up against he hull and backing. You will be convinced of how well this works when you try and remove them. Also you will notice that it is a bear to remove the gate valve from the thru hull. This also is a tapered thread on a straight thread. Pretty damned tight. I decided to go with the ballvalves. The yard foreman at my marina gave me this tip which I may use and that is to grind down the the first two threads on the thru hull ever so slightly (tapered). He wraps them with teflon tape and claims the grinding gives him an extra 11/2 to 2 turns on the thruhull. He learned this from another marina several years ago and is happy with the success. You are on your own with this decision. I also spoke to a builder of steel hulls and he uses ball valves instead of the "seacocks" and has had no problems but then again what is a satisfactory length of service? I did not have any real problems with the gate valves but since I close them when I'm not on board they get a lot of use. Also it is easier to use the head. I am also putting a valve and new thruhull on the head sink which never had one in the first place. I'm ignoring the holding take valve since it is never used and does not contain water. I know the purists out there will disagree with my opinions but since the gate valves lasted 15 years and I'll be 70 years old in 15 years and I can live with it. Good luck!
I am also in the process of replacing the gate valves on my 28.5. The issue in the West Marine catalog is twofold. The Apollo ballvalves are chromeplated brass balls while the seacocks are chrome plated bronze balls. Not an issue in freshwater and probably not much of one in saltwater if carefuuly watched over the years. The second issue is that thru hulls are staight male threads. Seacocks are straight female threads so the seacock can be screwed down tight against the wood backing plate and screwed into the hull. Ball vaves have tapered threads. Now you will notice that your thru hulls have bronze nuts which allows the thru hull to be tightened up against he hull and backing. You will be convinced of how well this works when you try and remove them. Also you will notice that it is a bear to remove the gate valve from the thru hull. This also is a tapered thread on a straight thread. Pretty damned tight. I decided to go with the ballvalves. The yard foreman at my marina gave me this tip which I may use and that is to grind down the the first two threads on the thru hull ever so slightly (tapered). He wraps them with teflon tape and claims the grinding gives him an extra 11/2 to 2 turns on the thruhull. He learned this from another marina several years ago and is happy with the success. You are on your own with this decision. I also spoke to a builder of steel hulls and he uses ball valves instead of the "seacocks" and has had no problems but then again what is a satisfactory length of service? I did not have any real problems with the gate valves but since I close them when I'm not on board they get a lot of use. Also it is easier to use the head. I am also putting a valve and new thruhull on the head sink which never had one in the first place. I'm ignoring the holding take valve since it is never used and does not contain water. I know the purists out there will disagree with my opinions but since the gate valves lasted 15 years and I'll be 70 years old in 15 years and I can live with it. Good luck!
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Eric
Addendum
Omitted that I removed thru hulls and cleaned up threads and recaulked. Also you will need two people. First insert thrull hull and put on nut loosely against backing so the thru hull will turn. Then but on valve with teflon tape and tighten down all the way. You will need somebody to hold the thru hull while you do this. Then turn the valve so the handle will clear any obstructions. It may be easier on some of these to remove the handle first. Back off the nut and push the thru hull out as far as it will go. Apply caulking and then tighten down the thru hull nut all the way while holding the thru hull in place from the outside. I am using a polysulfide Life Caulk. Some people will recommend 3M 5200 which is also an adhesive and if you ever need to remove the thru hull it will be an intense project to say the least. Good luck.
Omitted that I removed thru hulls and cleaned up threads and recaulked. Also you will need two people. First insert thrull hull and put on nut loosely against backing so the thru hull will turn. Then but on valve with teflon tape and tighten down all the way. You will need somebody to hold the thru hull while you do this. Then turn the valve so the handle will clear any obstructions. It may be easier on some of these to remove the handle first. Back off the nut and push the thru hull out as far as it will go. Apply caulking and then tighten down the thru hull nut all the way while holding the thru hull in place from the outside. I am using a polysulfide Life Caulk. Some people will recommend 3M 5200 which is also an adhesive and if you ever need to remove the thru hull it will be an intense project to say the least. Good luck.
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Greg
Use seacocks
I have just replaced my gate valves, but I hired someone to do this job. It wasn't too expensive for labor. You may be able to use some of the thru hulls again if not corroded. However, some of mine were destroyed in the process of trying to remove them. I would suggest buying new ones and returning them if you don't need them. On the subject of ball valves, several issues of Practical Sailor in the past couple of years addressed the Apollo ball valves; there were some horror stories. The guys at the yard wanted to use ball valves and I just insisted on using the real thing (seacocks). The difference in cost is not significant in relation to all of the other costs. Good luck, it looked like a real job to get them off on my H31. I was glad this was one job I didn't tackle myself.
I have just replaced my gate valves, but I hired someone to do this job. It wasn't too expensive for labor. You may be able to use some of the thru hulls again if not corroded. However, some of mine were destroyed in the process of trying to remove them. I would suggest buying new ones and returning them if you don't need them. On the subject of ball valves, several issues of Practical Sailor in the past couple of years addressed the Apollo ball valves; there were some horror stories. The guys at the yard wanted to use ball valves and I just insisted on using the real thing (seacocks). The difference in cost is not significant in relation to all of the other costs. Good luck, it looked like a real job to get them off on my H31. I was glad this was one job I didn't tackle myself.
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Dan Menchini
I still have a question!
Thanks for all the responses. Before I posted my first article, I was convinced that I had to change all my seacocks, now even more so. I still have the question about doing it. Has anyone done this themselves? It looks like it is going to be very difficult getting a wrench in the compartments to unscrew the seacock and then the thru hull locking nut. Any hints or suggestions?
Thanks for all the responses. Before I posted my first article, I was convinced that I had to change all my seacocks, now even more so. I still have the question about doing it. Has anyone done this themselves? It looks like it is going to be very difficult getting a wrench in the compartments to unscrew the seacock and then the thru hull locking nut. Any hints or suggestions?
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Dan Menchini
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John
I have the exact same problem with my seacocks
I do a lot of sailing in the NY area, and I have the exact same problem with my seacocks. I've been putting this off for about two years now, and now I'm convinced that this is the time to finally fix this problem. Dan, maybe we could do this together. What part of NY are you from? BTW, be careful with the WD-40. Sometimes that stuff can build up and create a problem. If you've already sprayed alot of it on, you should try to remove some of the old build up. It cleans itself, so spray a lot more on and wipe off as much as you can.... Keep Sailing
I do a lot of sailing in the NY area, and I have the exact same problem with my seacocks. I've been putting this off for about two years now, and now I'm convinced that this is the time to finally fix this problem. Dan, maybe we could do this together. What part of NY are you from? BTW, be careful with the WD-40. Sometimes that stuff can build up and create a problem. If you've already sprayed alot of it on, you should try to remove some of the old build up. It cleans itself, so spray a lot more on and wipe off as much as you can.... Keep Sailing
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Dan Menchini
Barren Island
John. Please ignore my jerky brothers message which went out under my name. I dock and winter store at Barren Island Marina. We are no more than a mile away from each other. We should get together. Where do you winter? I was at the Marina on Saturday and started to scope this out. My engine intake and sink drain thru-hulls and valves are located under the sink in the galley. The waste discharge and waste intake thru-hulls and valves are located under the port side of the v-berth. My plan is to get a big pipe wrench and try to remove the valve first. The valve in the galley is so big, that I think I will have to remove the valve assemble and then the valve pipe, in order to turn it. Last, but not least, remove the locking nut and thru hull. My guess is that when the locking nut and valve are off, some light hammer tapping should unseat the thru-hull. Still looking for some advice from anyone who has done this before.
John. Please ignore my jerky brothers message which went out under my name. I dock and winter store at Barren Island Marina. We are no more than a mile away from each other. We should get together. Where do you winter? I was at the Marina on Saturday and started to scope this out. My engine intake and sink drain thru-hulls and valves are located under the sink in the galley. The waste discharge and waste intake thru-hulls and valves are located under the port side of the v-berth. My plan is to get a big pipe wrench and try to remove the valve first. The valve in the galley is so big, that I think I will have to remove the valve assemble and then the valve pipe, in order to turn it. Last, but not least, remove the locking nut and thru hull. My guess is that when the locking nut and valve are off, some light hammer tapping should unseat the thru-hull. Still looking for some advice from anyone who has done this before.
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John
Just got back from bareboating in the BVI
I just got back from a week of bareboating in the BVI. Had an awesome time. We took out a Hunter 410 and boy can that thing handle. The beam on that boat must be 20 FT! Boy was that boat beamy.... Must admit had a few two many G&T's but that's what a vacation is for. Well, now I must get back to changing the seacocks on my 1981 Hunter 30. It was fun while it lasted...... Maybe we can get together for some steamers at Lundy's and talk over the details, then we have to get to work. John
I just got back from a week of bareboating in the BVI. Had an awesome time. We took out a Hunter 410 and boy can that thing handle. The beam on that boat must be 20 FT! Boy was that boat beamy.... Must admit had a few two many G&T's but that's what a vacation is for. Well, now I must get back to changing the seacocks on my 1981 Hunter 30. It was fun while it lasted...... Maybe we can get together for some steamers at Lundy's and talk over the details, then we have to get to work. John
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Dave Sutherland
sEACOCKS
You should check out the April 1998 issue of Cruising World. Has a terrific article on thru-hull and seacock maintenance. Always use seacocks and not gate valves as you can't tell visually if the gate valve is open or closed. Your best bet is to get a small pipe wrench to remove the seacock. Best bet is to replace the valves if you can't unfreeze them. Marelon seacocks are a good bet and are approved by the ABYC. Good luck. Dave
You should check out the April 1998 issue of Cruising World. Has a terrific article on thru-hull and seacock maintenance. Always use seacocks and not gate valves as you can't tell visually if the gate valve is open or closed. Your best bet is to get a small pipe wrench to remove the seacock. Best bet is to replace the valves if you can't unfreeze them. Marelon seacocks are a good bet and are approved by the ABYC. Good luck. Dave
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Tim
frozen=throw in trash
They aren't that expensive and the boat will sink if they fail. The problem with some of the ball valves at West is they have brass rather than bronze balls. When the chrome wears through (it will) they corrode much more quickly. If the valve is freezing up, this may be your warning. Go to a local plumbing supply house and order Apollo ball valves with bronze balls and stainless handles. It's much cheaper than West.
They aren't that expensive and the boat will sink if they fail. The problem with some of the ball valves at West is they have brass rather than bronze balls. When the chrome wears through (it will) they corrode much more quickly. If the valve is freezing up, this may be your warning. Go to a local plumbing supply house and order Apollo ball valves with bronze balls and stainless handles. It's much cheaper than West.
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