Fridge problems

IanJ

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Nov 7, 2008
152
Hunter 31 Port Royal, CA
Have a small refrigeration unit on my 1984 H31, which up to now has been outstanding, making ice and working like a Trojan. In the last day, it has stopped working properly. About every 45 seconds the fan comes on for a second, then shuts off again. Any ideas out there?
 

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May 24, 2004
7,213
CC 30 South Florida
OK since it was working yesterday and not today it would point to an electrical component failure or a loss of Freon. Check that the batteries are fully charged and that wiring connections are clean and tight and that you are getting adequate voltage at the unit. Is the compressor kicking in? Check the capacitor as when they fail they will usually bulge at the connectors plate as a tell-tale sign. A faulty capacitor would be my best guess.
 

IanJ

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Nov 7, 2008
152
Hunter 31 Port Royal, CA
Thanks Benny. Was going to go over my wiring today. Checked batteries yesterday and they are ok.
The compressor starts every 45 seconds or so, then the fan kicks on for a second, then the whole thing shuts down for another 45 seconds. Does that sound like a capacitor? If it is, how do I get that replaced ? is it something I can just remove a circuit board from somewhere, or do I need a refridgeration guy to come and fix?
 

IanJ

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Nov 7, 2008
152
Hunter 31 Port Royal, CA
Stu, I have been reading your threads back in 2004 about this. I know you are big on making people do their own homework, and respect that. Best way to learn.
Is this book going to be my Holy Fridge Grail?
 
Jun 11, 2004
73
- - Ft. Lauderdale FL.
IanJ, Generally a simple problem you can correct yourself, compressor microprocessor see a problem that must be corrected and will not allow compressor to run. Do not allow anyone to tamper with refrigerant or connect gauges to your unit.

Troubleshooting 4 pin Danfoss modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module, Compressor runs replace fan. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. If one of the 10 transistors in this fan fail it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value, Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit.

I closed my shop but after seeing what is being charged by boat refrigeration companies who will test modules charging $50 and charging as high as $385 for new 4 pin modules, I decided to test and sell modules for a fraction of what is currently being charged.

If your shipping address is in the US I will test your module on my Danfoss compressor refrigeration test stand. This test stand will run at max compressor load for a one hour. I will then return your module to you for a shipping and handling charge of $20. Ship module with return address and a personal check for $20 to:
Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312

New replacement Module

If you wish to purchase a new or serviceable unit from me later I currently have the following four pin modules:

Four pin modules for BD2, BD2.5 and BD3 twelve volt compressors only:

No used modules available at this time.

New module non Danfoss With improved cooling. $150 plus $15 shipping.

Modules will only be shipped to addresses in the US. If you want to purchase a new replacement module send personal check for $165 and return address to:

Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312


Because your unit is old and if it needs a new electronic module there is a risk that something is wrong that caused module to fail so most companies will refuse warranty of these modules. This is my electronic module warranty:
Any new module I sell can be returned for full credit without question within 30 days . Because of my own risk involved for the next 11 months I will return only 50% of the new units purchase price if module is returned within the first year.

Richard Kollmann
 
May 24, 2004
7,213
CC 30 South Florida
No if the compressor kicks in is not the capacitor. Sounds like it is getting a signal to shut down from somewhere. Like Richard indicates run some jumper wires to by-pass the thermostat in order to rule out it being faulty. He also suggests to by-pass the boat's wiring and connect the unit input leads directly to a known good battery. This would eliminate the possibility of too much resistance having built up in the wiring. Follow his recommendation and test the fan, if the fan is faulty the control module will shut the compressor down to avoid it from overheating. If it does run without the fan just shut if off quickly and get a replacement. If all fails Then you may really need a new control module. When old units start breaking down there is the possibility of it becoming a long series of part replacements so gauge the cost of a new unit against the cost of repairs and the expected service from the unit. Good luck.
 

IanJ

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Nov 7, 2008
152
Hunter 31 Port Royal, CA
Thanks guys. I am going to run Richards tests this weekend, although according to a manual I downloaded, it seems characteristic with being in "protective mode". I did incorporate an on/off switch about eight months ago, and will bypass that and see if that is my problem, although it has been fine up to now. Otherwise, I am going to be asking you Richard how to dismantle so as I can send to you for diagnosis.