Fridge power - 2015 Oceanis 48

[Roger F]

Hi, my fridge unit, vitrifrigo, is not getting power when checked with meter. Connections at the unit look OK too, relay appears OK (swapped with another) and fuse is OK. Anyone had this issue before? What am I missing? Is there some other switch or fuse or... Manual only shows the fuse and relay box.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Maybe you could put this a little simpler, where is the last place where you can positively detect continuous power ? Either AC or DC. Check one device at a time and start WITH power and keep going until you DO NOT have power. That device will most likely be your problem.

Don't go in order and you'll be there until hell freezes over.

 

[jssailem]

Roger. Last year about this time the freezer was a problem. Did it resolve then?

Electrical issues require starting at a point where you know it works and moving down the wires till it has no juice. Thus isolating where the power stops

 

[Roger F]

Yes, freezer has had slow leak that we just need to keep the 134A topped off. As a built in unit, a fix is not very simple except for perhaps getting the insert coils to go within the unit.

The fridge issue is now a new item, whack-a-mole. The compressor just stopped and testing the leads shows no power to it. I did trace the power all the way back. Everything checks out fine. That leaves only the cord between the relay and the compressor. So my question, perhaps this explains it better, is... am I missing something other than the cord, which of course is burried in a snake beneath the sole panels. The cords, from what I can see appears fine and there was no obvious event when the compressor went out. I happen to be sitting right there when it did. Other than the fuse and relay box...would there be another connection somewhere? The manual diagram does not show anything additional.

 

[Hello Below]

That leaves only the cord between the relay and the compressor.

Maybe run temporary parallel wires to bypass the existing cord.

 

[jssailem]

Roger.
I want to start with the understanding - I know you love your boat.

Letting the freezer continue to "slow leak" and then fill is like leaking a little in bed because your tired and want to stay warm under the covers. At some point you have to get up and change the sheets.

With spring beginning, this for me would be an excellent time to resolve the problem. Sure it could be the manufacture who did it to you. That is water under the bridge. This is a skilled labor project. It would be, in my mind, an advanced DIY project. It likely will entail some cabinet work - removal fix the problem, reassemble or repair the cabinets. You might seek professional assistance (the value of your boat is worth considering it).

You will need to rebuild the freezer box. Install a replacement for your equipment if a tech can not stop the leak. (I am going to guess here, while installing the compressor and copper/aluminum piping a fitting or pipe was damaged. Perhaps it installer tried to bend it back into place. A tiny fracture occurred that on the low pressure side leaks. OR... there is a seal in the system that was damaged at install. The seal leaks.) No matter the cause, it is failing to function. Replace it.

You can still go sailing. Use an ice box while it is being repaired.

If you are chasing the power, is it the AC or the DC line? When you say it

Everything checks out fine. testing the leads shows no power to it.

What this says is you have a hot lead (power) where the red is in this diagram.

 

[Roger F]

Definitely will involve carpentry, electrician, refrigeration folks! For now I am giving up on the DC fix and ran an extension cord to use the 110 plug option off the fridge. Not the prettiest but that will tie us over so we have the fridge for the remainder of our Bahamas trip. Thanks for all the input!! Cheers!

 

[NYSail]

As was said prior, is there a way to bring another dc load to the box and see if that powers it up. You say you have power coming into the relay but nothing going from the relay to the compressor? So I would test the relay where power is coming out and see what you have.... maybe the relay is shot? Work backwards until you have no power. I assume your boat is wired similarly with a dedicated breaker and line on the panel for the refrig/freezer. So if you have power at the panel breaker and the wire is well attached it should go uninterrupted to the relay... I know the pain of the bundles of wires and hoses together. And i'm not a fan of the WAGO boards..... the 423 diagram does not match what is there.... at least in my case. Looks clean but its a nightmare. I just run new wires straight from the panel if need be.

Good luck
Greg