fresh water tank

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sam

does anyone know how to access the fresh water tank. I think it may be contaminated, and I want to clean it out.
 
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S. Sauer

Bow Tank - Hunter 28.5

As far as I've seen, the poly bow tank has no cleanout, just a fill from the anchor well, an overflow and supply to the pressure pump. Why not add a 1/2 cup of bleach in a 3/4 full tank, let it sit and slosh around while you sail; pump it thru the entire system including the water heater. Let it sit overnight and then pump it all out and drain the water heater. Then refill, pump it thru the system and drain it all out including the water heater. At this point you might just elect to leave it dry for the winter, but disconnect the pump and the water heater, open the water heater drain and blow out the lines. Bleach will attack rubber elements in the pump, so you must rinse it out. Check and clean the strainer ahead of the pump to see if any particulate has acumulated. Given the location of the fill opening in the bottom of the anchor well, you do need to be carefull with a loose fill cap or a missing 'O' ring on the cap.
 
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Jeff

Don't unscew it !

Whatever you do, do not remove the lid. Whatever they used for caulking is an adhesive ( 5200?) and you will end up with one big mess. I had to cut a new lid out of plexiglass after finding this out the hard way. Check the Headmistress Forum on this site for guidance on using bleach otherwise you can ruin the pump. I also gave up trying to fill the tank through the anchor locker since it was always full of mud etc which had to be cleaned out. I go directly to where the fill hose enters the tank, remove the hose and fill from there. Can't get quite as full but I think it is easier.
 
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress

One more time..the right way to do it:

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. There is no need to remove the fill hose from the tank to put the solution directly into the tank...just pour it down the fill hose. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.
 
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