Are you sure that p/n is correct? At least in the last decade or so Jabsco part numbers are typically “5 digit dash 4 digit”.I don't suppose any one has a source for a replacement: Jabsco Sensor Max 14, #317950- 0000?
Are you sure that p/n is correct? At least in the last decade or so Jabsco part numbers are typically “5 digit dash 4 digit”.I don't suppose any one has a source for a replacement: Jabsco Sensor Max 14, #317950- 0000?
My mistake- part # is 31750-0000Are you sure that p/n is correct? At least in the last decade or so Jabsco part numbers are typically “5 digit dash 4 digit”.
That might work if long enough to connect the out port to the water distribution manifold. The in port connects to the pex protruding from the floor that provides the water tank supply. Sorry I didn't take a picture of the setup- would make explanation much easier! I think the stainless lines should do the trick. Thanks much!Instead of trying to connect pex connectors directly to the pump, attach ½" male connectors to the PEX and use supply lines to connect the PEX to the pump. Supply lines are flexible and come in different lengths. They are readily available at any Big Box hardware store and local stores like ACE.
Ace 1/2 in. FIP X 1/2 in. D FIP 12 in. Stainless Steel Faucet Supply Line Mfr# 7223-12-12-1-A - Ace Hardware
Stainless Steel faucet connectors are durable and corrosion resistant. Use this line to connect both the hot and cold-water supply to your faucet in exposed locations.Find the FAUCT SUPLY LINE SS 12 at Ace.www.acehardware.com
Wow, thanks John! Any idea where I can get the rebuild kit? I searched Jabsco/ tech support with no luck.I believe in saving money, as well as the next sailor. The specifications for the above-number pump show that it has a lot of technology built in.
Features • Variable Speed Control • Solid State Pressure Sensor • Nearly Silent Operation / No Cycling • Operates on 12V DC or 24V DC • Controls Pressure by Changing Motor Speed • Speeds Up As Demand Increases • Selfpriming / Runs Dry • No Accumulator Tank Needed • CSA Listed / EN ISO 8846 Marine / C.E. Certified • Protected under U.S. Patent 6,607,360 • Includes Inlet StrainerIt is not a throw-away when-it-fails type of product. There is a reasonable $84 over-haul kit to extend the pump's life.
If the features serve to enhance your boat experience, it may be worth the extra expense. The beauty of all this is that it is your boat, and you get to choose. What a country...
Thanks yet again!I did just a quick search. Found it at “pump agents website”
Jabsco Pump Pump
Product information and price listing for Jabsco Pump catalog # 31750-0000 Marine Pump.www.pumpagents.com
No knowledge about the business. $86 seemed reasonable.
I possibly have this pump in my “spares” inventory. Problem is that this consists of 3 storage lockers .Thanks yet again!
I had the same problem with our 410. The boatyard said they fixed it. It was not fixed. They came back and it was still not fixed. As it turns out, some kind of way there were too many holes drilled into the top of two water tanks and both were leaking when pressurized. The holed were sealed up and we have had no problem since then.My 41DS has developed a leak in the pressurized water system and I am at a loss as to how to identify the location. It only leaks into the bilge at a very slow rate and only when pressurized. The majority of the plumbing is difficult to inspect and I would prefer to determine the approximate location before removing floor panels to expose the plumbing. The tanks are surrounded by foam insulation so difficult to inspect but since they are vented, I don't think they are pressurized so I assume the leak is downstream from the pump.
I do have pool leak detecting dye so could isolate which tank was leaking if it was in fact a tank. The only procedure I can figure out is to turn off all the circuits from the main distribution manifold and turn them on one by one. This could take a long time since the leak is so slow(overnight to get the bilge water level high enough to turn on the small bilge pump). The pump will eventually turn on and cycle as it pumps out and bilge slowly refills. I live 200 miles from the boat so this process could take months.
It is probably wishful thinking that there is clever procedure to find the leak without tearing up all the flooring but one can only hope!
Any help greatly appreciated!
HiMy 41DS has developed a leak in the pressurized water system and I am at a loss as to how to identify the location. It only leaks into the bilge at a very slow rate and only when pressurized. The majority of the plumbing is difficult to inspect and I would prefer to determine the approximate location before removing floor panels to expose the plumbing. The tanks are surrounded by foam insulation so difficult to inspect but since they are vented, I don't think they are pressurized so I assume the leak is downstream from the pump.
I do have pool leak detecting dye so could isolate which tank was leaking if it was in fact a tank. The only procedure I can figure out is to turn off all the circuits from the main distribution manifold and turn them on one by one. This could take a long time since the leak is so slow(overnight to get the bilge water level high enough to turn on the small bilge pump). The pump will eventually turn on and cycle as it pumps out and bilge slowly refills. I live 200 miles from the boat so this process could take months.
It is probably wishful thinking that there is clever procedure to find the leak without tearing up all the flooring but one can only hope!
Any help greatly appreciated!
Ralph - Kudos on your chafe protection. Now I have another todo on the list.
I had a friend do that and it was salty! The problem was it was a freshwater boat. Turns out his waste tank was leaking...ou began with the premise that you had a fresh water leak. Have you absolutely confirmed by tasting that the leak isn't salt water?
Blech!I had a friend do that and it was salty! The problem was it was a freshwater boat. Turns out his waste tank was leaking...