Fresh water bottom paint

Whatfiero1 · Feb 6, 2019

Ask the yard where your boat is. Local knowledge better than the internet

dlochner · Feb 6, 2019

In freshwater, the two issues are slime and algae growth and zebra mussels. Epoxy won't resistant either of those.

If you are racing, a popular boat paint is VC-17. It is a thin film high copper content paint. I think Petitt makes a comparable product. Look for SR in the name, SR = slime reduction. VC-17 goes on easily, dries almost immediately and is reasonably economical. On my Sabre 30 I would use about 2 cans maybe a little more or less. The down side to VC-17 is having to remove it. The copper can build up and sanding tends to burnish it, not remove it.

If you are just cruising and day sailing, an ablative paint will work. For the past few years I've been using Blue Water Marine Shelter Island (https://www.bluewatermarinepaint.com) it is a copper free paint that is reasonably priced and works reasonably well. I have not had any zebra mussels but I have had some slime on the south side of the bottom where sun can get to it. I plan to continue using it for the foreseeable future.

If you take the paint off to the gelcoat, it should be repainted with a barrier coat, like Interlux Interprotect 2000, Blue Water Marine makes a similar product, prior to applying the antifouling paint.

Check with neighbors in your marina to see what is working for them. Also, Jamestown Distributors does a survey every year about bottom paint. Check them out: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?tag=getting-to-the-bottom-of-paint

LakeOntario270 · Feb 6, 2019

I use VC17m. The nice thing about it is it goes on in very thin coats so it doesn't build up over time and is very easy to apply.
If you don't use VC17m pick a paint that has a anti-slime ingredient.

Whatfiero1 · Feb 6, 2019

Don't forget read side can for installation instructions. Most paints need min 50 deg temps. For 3 hours after application

jon hansen · Feb 6, 2019

VC17. roll on with short nap roller, then, while wet, take many huge wads of newspaper and schmeer the excess off to get ultra thin, very smooth racer's bottom. takes care of any buildup issues. rolling alone is too rough for racing. my racer buddies taught me this, and they win.
high speed/low drag it's all about the details

rgranger · Feb 6, 2019

jon hansen said:

Shop envy ...

DougM · Feb 6, 2019

I keep my boat in a marina just off Lake Michigan in Manistee. I repaint annually with VC17 and it only takes about 2.5 quarts. We power wash the bottom during the fall haulout and its clean with very little effort. It could probably go two seasons, but I have never done that.
In the spring, I just wipe the bottom with a rag and alcohol to remove any extra dirt, mask and repaint which takes less than an hour. (I roll it and use a ketchup dispenser to apply the paint to the roller. In an open roller pan the solvent would evaporate inshort order).
The boat can be launched within 20 minutes. When the boat is in the slings and ready to launch, the marina crew goes on break, I paint the pad areas, and when they return, the boat is launched.

BlowMeAway · Feb 6, 2019

On the VC-17M. Build up is negligible, rolls on easy, dries fast, looks like a gigantic copper kettle before launch. Post season slime/algae is minimal, zebra mussels only attach in the gap behind the rudder skeg and power wash out easily. It takes about an hour and a half to apply, oxidizes fairly quickly to a matte brown finish once launched. We put on a new coat every other year. Two quarts to cover a H30C hull to the waterline. I can even get the Admiral to help.

JRacer · Feb 6, 2019

I also use the VC-17. First year, blasted off all the old bottom paint built up over the years from PO's and took it down to the gelcoat. Good opportunity to inspect the bottom and fix any gelcoat cracks. Then went back with barrier coat, a couple or three layers. Followed by the VC-17. Annually, I clean then recoat with VC-17. Until last year we sprayed it. Last year we rolled and got better coverage. I use 4-5 quarts annually. I do get algae buildup during the season but it power washes off nicely at the end of the year. Am generally in the water 4-5 months and our water temp near the surface does get pretty warm so I think that's where the algae buildup comes from - think bath water. You would probably have less likelihood of that with the water temps you have up there.

quadrille38 · Feb 6, 2019

White Lake off Lake Michigan. Have used VC 17 for 30 years.

Do make sure you use VC 17m EXTRA. The extra contains Biolux which helps with slime build up. It’s a biocide. A couple of years ago extra wasn’t available and we had to use VC 17 regular. There was significantly more slime growth that year.

NoAgenda · Feb 7, 2019

We use VC17 with the anti slime additive mentioned above on our boat in Lake Erie, It will usually last two seasons if the pressure washer guy at haul out doesn't go crazy. I painted the first coat a different color than the later coats so I could tell when it needs to be painted again.

dlochner · Feb 7, 2019

If you go with VC-17, be aware that it evaporates very quickly. This is not really a problem and kind of nice as you can paint the bottom of the keel and by the time the boat hits the water the paint is dry.

The downside is that evaporates quickly, if you pour a bunch into a roller try much of it will dry in the tray. A very effective work around is to use a squirt bottle. A water bottle with a sports top works well. Mix the paint, pour in to the water bottle and then squirt some paint on the roller. I used a roller tray as a drip pan to catch the extra paint. No need to clean the plan, just use the same pan from year to year.

wing15601 · Feb 7, 2019

VC-17. Here’s some advice from experience. I use a funnel and an empty margarita mix plastic bottle. (Be sure to use some good tequila when emptying the bottle) Pour the paint in the bottle then add the copper which comes in a separate package. You can then shake the bottle often to keep the copper in suspension. Pour only a small amount in the roller tray, enough for 2 dips of the roller because this stuff evaporates lightning fast. I’ve always used one coat and have had no growth except for some slime in southwest Michigan. I use slightly more than a quart on my O’Day 28 and as long as I shake the bottle several times over the year the paint in the bottle remains usable. West Marine sells a clone of the VC-17 they say is chemically the same for about $10 less.

LakeOntario270 · Feb 7, 2019

To mix the VC17 I use a Folgers coffee can. It has a nice molded in grip for pouring. I use my electric drill to stir it.
Pour a little at a time in a small tray and use a 4" roller (white foam works nice). If the temperature is cool the paint won't evaporate as fast. Drys to the touch in 5 minutes.

Parsons · Feb 7, 2019

I am a local (Saginaw Bay), and we all use VC17 down here, including those that do not race. I fully agree with the posts of the Great Lakes experts above. Other notes not made by @dlochner , @LakeOntario270 @wing15601 @BlowMeAway etc.:

VC17 is acetone based, so using a sealed, quick-open container like a ketchup dispenser is vital. This stuff is about $70 a quart, so a few ounces is worth a lunch out, and you can blow a few ounces with a couple minutes of evaporation.
Prep the old surface as noted above, and the guides. VC17 does not stick to most other paints, so you'll need a pristine primed surface the first time. Next year, when applying over VC17, I would just go over it with a plastic scrubby pad to knock off any high spots or growth that the pressure washer did not find. I'm not a racer, so I'm not as obsessive over perfectly smooth.
Wear a coverall suit / trashy painting clothes, and rubber gloves. The copper is like a tattoo and you will go around with copper covered hands for a week afterwards. Clothes will be ruined.
You need to mix the powdered copper into the acetone paint-base, and it's like mixing flour into water - no wind, don't breath, mix well. The copper is what keeps the bios from growing, so don't waste any.
Allow about an hour or two to brush the bottom and paint. Pick a still day or your copper will blow away and it will dry faster than you can work - ask me how I know! Drying time is about 2 minutes, so you work very quickly.
It goes faster if you have two people working - one to hold paint / dispense, one to apply with a (very) short nap roller. Use a roller pan to catch the drips from the roller.
Spread VC17 as thin as possible for an even coat, reduced drag, and cost. Again, $70 a quart.
I plan to use just under 4 quarts annually for my C36, and that includes reserving a few ounces mixed in the ketchup bottle for painting the pad while it sits in the slings.
The West Marine stuff gets great reviews from my racing buddy's, but I've not tried it.

If you've not done this before, ask anyone around your boat yard as everyone is doing the same thing. We all know the drill.

Justin_NSA · Feb 7, 2019

The carp love VC17 in the Springtime. You can hear and watch them slap along the hulls. Disturbing at night I would imagine. FWIW, we stuck with Hydrocoat that the PO applied.

Tally Ho · Feb 8, 2019

Another

for VC17. I am on the south end of Lake Michigan and have used VC17 on both of my boats over the past 10 years.

As others have said, this stuff dries REALLY fast. I mix it in a clean plastic jug (the bigger the mouth the better to get the powdered copper in), and then it is easy to pour a small amount in the pan, roll it on, pour a little more, and so on.

I can usually get 2 seasons out of a fresh bottom paint. I touch up the rudder and other “worn” spots on the off year. Not a lot of prep needed before application.

Greg

DougM · Feb 8, 2019

Someone wrote that VC17 was acetone based, I thought it was ethyl alcohol...
I have used ethyl alcohol in the past to slightly thin VC17 and it worked well.
That only cost about a dollar a pint at the drugstore.