fresh wate bottom paint for Hunter 22

earlfixit · Mar 18, 2015

some things to consider.

The bottom paint keeps the growth from getting as bad, but. Under the bottom paint should be an epoxy barrier coat, like Interlux, to protect the boat from Blisters. I'm not sure about New boats and if the jell coat has changed, so I don't know about newer boats. For slime you want MerconII.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 19, 2015

Not enoguth information was given other than into the water. I assume the boat will be in the water year round. If so, the suggestion of barrier coats is recommended but let the hull dry out for at least 4 months, then lightly sand and clean off with dewaxer (use gloves), Apply 3-4 coats. Then sand again so the bottom paint will adhere. Ask locally what paint works the best for you as it depends on the water itself what to put on in way of anti fouling paint.

jcrumpley · Mar 20, 2015

I personally don't see any reason to put bottom paint on a boat in a freshwater lake. I just pull my boat once a year and clean the bottom. It gets a lot of green slimy growth and a bit of harder stuff at the water line during the year. A good power wash and scrubbing and it look great again. Been doing this since my boat was new in 2006.

Also, if you decide to paint and the boat is still under warranty, read it carefully. Some warranties don't allow you to sand the bottom prior to paint.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 20, 2015

Jcrumpley;

Contrary to what you said, some lakes for example up north better have bottom paint due to zebra mussles and in other lakes and rivers, you have to as well. God help you if there is algae on the bottom and you wait till it is dried to take it off, you better have a chisel. I know where that boat is going into on the Tennessee River and bottom paint is highly suggested. Have delivered boats there many a time. Call it experience from a former dealer. The TN river is also bueatiful and I enjoyed going thru the locks beginning at Ft. Loudon resivoir outside of Knoxville, TN....

caverun · Mar 21, 2015

I use Interlux VC-17M Extra here in Kentucky. It is a very hard non-ablative finish and dries very fast. Can do 2 or 3 coats in a day. You mix a bag of copper powder in the acetone-based paint. There are some tips to make application easier, so let me know if you decide to go with that.
My 1998 240 does not have a barrier coat, but have not had any problems with blisters. It is on the trailer 5 months a year, so maybe that helps.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 21, 2015

Caverun,

Good to see you are still alive sir. Caverun gave some good advice on bottom paint but what I use to tell my customers is to check with the locals where the boat would be to see what actually works there. Chattanooga and Knoxville do have West Marine stores but there are some good marinas in the area as well to check with to see what works well.

Worldwalker88 · Mar 23, 2015

My H26.5 is pulled out every year. I am about to paint for L. Michigan. The P.O. just had an ablative with nothing under it. I was planning to sand and a coat of black HC-17 with a different color ablative (not chosen yet) over that.
My first question is, do I really need the under coat on the hull, since it's six months in and six months out?
(I have found no blisters)
Second question, should the rudder be treated the same way? Or should there be additional measures taken? I am wondering, since it seems that the rudder is under (I am assuming) more stress than the rest of the hull? Should it always have a barrier coat? I have a few chips I just found when I started looking under the covers this last week. (one or two, smaller than a nickle and not all the way through the gel coat) Also, do the edges of the rudder need anything additional in terms of long term care?

Any information/guidence is appriciated!

Thanks!

WW

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 25, 2015

Hunter used a different style gel coat that was more impervious to water intrusion than other gels and was not really an issue. If blistering becomes problematic, then consider a barrier coat four times.

As for the rudder before going back in, repair the chips with two part epoxy, not the bloomin stick kind. Personally I would apply the barrier coats on the rudder, then sand, wipe off and paint. Add a third coat to the leading edge.,

Worldwalker88 · Mar 25, 2015

Thanks!
I already have the epoxy and tape for the chip job. Just waiting for it to be a little warmer. The sticks looked a little too easy to be true, to me for an actual chip.

I'll pick up a qt of hard coat for the rudder while I'm at it. Because that makes sense, as in a little extra now = a lot less headaches later.