Hi all
We have a 1996 hunter passage 42.6, would anyone know where I could purchase new seals from
We have a 1996 hunter passage 42.6, would anyone know where I could purchase new seals from
Freezer lid seal
- Thread starter La Scandell
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...I would try this site first. See the 'Store' tab. They are the official source for Hunter parts.
If that does not work, try McMaster - Carr They have a huge selection of seals: http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=lfpk6o
And, if not there, maybe here:
http://www.cooler-gaskets.com/articles/Refrigerator-Seals-articles.html
Good luck!
...I would try this site first. See the 'Store' tab. They are the official source for Hunter parts.
If that does not work, try McMaster - Carr They have a huge selection of seals: http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=lfpk6o
And, if not there, maybe here:
http://www.cooler-gaskets.com/articles/Refrigerator-Seals-articles.html
Good luck!
Hi, i updated my fridge system to an OZEFRIDGE when I got the boat 2 years ago- probably the best money I have spent on it. The after sales support is nothing short of exceptional!
I had a problem with needing to defrost every month due to ice build up on my plates- Peter from OZE fridge immediatley identified leaking seals. He suggested soft adhesive backed foam- I used 12mm wide x 12 mm high- this has worked a treat- got it at Bunnings. The soft foam compresses right down for a good seal.
I had a problem with needing to defrost every month due to ice build up on my plates- Peter from OZE fridge immediatley identified leaking seals. He suggested soft adhesive backed foam- I used 12mm wide x 12 mm high- this has worked a treat- got it at Bunnings. The soft foam compresses right down for a good seal.
I just (today) purchased 30 ft from rparts.com. I have the Grunert refrigerator/freezer in my 2000 450 Passage. Part number 028-0006. Price is $37.33 for a 10 ft piece.
How are these holding up?
Do they not lose their shape?
I replaced some the other day with hatch seals and found they did not compress enough - instead they left my fridge top slightly elevated and not sealed all the way around.
We have also had the freezer seal problem on our P42. I replaced the seals but it was not good enough. Then I took the lift strut off so it would not be pushing the top open and that made a significant difference. I cut a short piece of wood that will reach across the top of the freezer opening with a little to spare and use it to hold the lid open by laying it across the opening near the back. It is short enough to store on the shelf above the microwave.
I suspect that the freezer is not as well insulated as it should be. One of these days I will remove the gas stove and see if I can get access to the side/back of the freezer to add insulation.
I suspect that the freezer is not as well insulated as it should be. One of these days I will remove the gas stove and see if I can get access to the side/back of the freezer to add insulation.
Rich if its anything like the 40.5 then access is non existent
The manufacturer packed behind the fridge / freezer units with hardened foam on my boat
The manufacturer packed behind the fridge / freezer units with hardened foam on my boat
I did purchase a full set of gaskets from Cooler-Gaskets. From their website the gasket profile I chose was "094". It proved to be a perfect fit, you measure the old gaskets insitu from corner to corner and they supply fully assembled. The corners are "welded" so no leakage. Note that all their gaskets have magnetic plastic embedded in the core of the sealing surface. So far I am not using them magnetically, I think I'm getting a good seal without it. But if time shows I am leaking a little I plan on taking some very thin steel shim stock, cutting in strips and putting in place on the sealing surfaces by brushing on epoxy. This will mount the steel and also seal it against any rusting. Then the seal will be absolutely perfect, as good as your modern household fridge which uses the magnetic seals.
Charris, You have me excited! One problem I have - my old ones were completely destroyed by um ah shall we say an overzealous owner who thought they would be easy to replace..
I don't suppose you have the measurements do you?
Have you tried the old dollar bill test to confirm the seal?
I like the steel idea - not so sure the rust will stay away though as its a persistent bugger!
Profile 094 does not exist ?
Being 6000+ miles away from my boat makes this incredibly difficult!
Being 6000+ miles away from my boat makes this incredibly difficult!
I just went onto cooler-gaskets.com and profile 094 is there. Click on step one, select your profile. The sizes for my 3 gaskets were:
1. Freezer lid, 15 ¼” x 16”
2. Fridge lid, 17 ½” x 19 ½”
3. Fridge door, 16” x 24”
There were a perfect fit except that my fridge front door turned out to be tapered a little, from 16" at the top down to about 15" at the bottom so I opened one lower corner and trimmed it back and then sealed with RTV. Remove all screws holding on the original gaskets, completely remove the underside fiberglas and foam and then use that as your screw template. I used a hot solder gun to melt holes in the new gaskets to allow easy screw insertion. The gasket gets sandwiched between the inside and lid so this is not seen and it seals it nicely. Good luck. These sizes were for my 1994 40.5.
I was on coolergaskets.com instead of cooler-gaskets.com!
What is RTV?
Charris - Can't thank you enough! Maybe now I will actually have a freezer that freezes!
What is RTV?
Charris - Can't thank you enough! Maybe now I will actually have a freezer that freezes!
RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanising rubber. ie: Silicone but use a good one if you need any. Chances are you won't. I think you will be happy with these, I have a 1 cubic foot freezer unit in my freezer, holds 30 lbs of meat in the sea of cortez, damn hot. The wall between the freezer and fridge has been opened with about a 1' square hole all gelcoated and glassed so it looks like it was done in the factory. The cold air surrounding the freezer unit spills into the rest of the freezer compartment and into the fridge and is working really well. So this is done with just the one compressor unit, DanFoss BD50 with twin fans. Runs about 50% of the time which is better than I had before when the fridge was separate.
Charris
Would you mind sharing a pic of that hole and your installation if its at all possible? I'm sure myself and a lot of people would appreciate it.
Sounds like a really good idea and battery saving - currently I have the old adler barbor still powering the freezer and it uses around 4-5amps when the compressor is running.
Thank you for your time posting all this info!
Would you mind sharing a pic of that hole and your installation if its at all possible? I'm sure myself and a lot of people would appreciate it.
Sounds like a really good idea and battery saving - currently I have the old adler barbor still powering the freezer and it uses around 4-5amps when the compressor is running.
Thank you for your time posting all this info!
Sure. We just got into harbour after crossing the Sea of Cortez, so after we get organized I'll post to the Hunter 40.5 Owner Mods, with photos etc. Our new system is using 4.6 amps when running, but that chills the entire refrig and freezer so it is pretty efficient. I'll take photos of the compressor unit and the evaporator (freezer box) and show the fiberglas mods that we had done.
Thanks Colin
My seals were delivered 2 days ago - will be fitting them next month when I get home from work
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