Freezer Condensation

[AlwaysFORSAIL]

I have been attemptiing to reduce the condensation in my freezer.

I have replaced the seals with factory seals. I have used several other sealants with and without the factory seal.

I have tried adusting the lid to make a better seal. I have removed the hinge and weighted the lid. I have placed a blanket over the unit.

The only thing that has worked has been blue tape around the seam. Obviously this is not a workable solution.

My next attempt will be to put some sort of latch on top of the lids to help keep the lids firmly down on the unit.

Any other bright ideas??? Take your time, I'm headed North for a month. If there is anything left after hurricane season I'll look for some latches.

 

[Benny17441]

Is it a summer months or a year around issue? Do you run it 24/7 or just when going out? How often do you need to get into the freezer during normal usage? Do you use ice trays to make ice? Have the unit serviced and freon level checked. I gather it is not a self defrosting unit so find the drain hole and make sure it is plugged. Escaping cold air through a drain hole will draw hot humid air in. The humidity levels on the Gulf of Mexico are brutal specially in the summer.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Benny's right, if the opening at the bottom is open. It's one of the first things most skippers do - close it up. If you live in a humid area, there's almost no way to keep buildup from happening on the evaporator plate. Let it go for a few days, turn it off, let it clear and start up again. Leave some ice in the fridge to keep it cool inside. Remember, these are NOT the auto defrost fridges that we all have become used to, it's not your house. Essentially, it's like Mom's or grandma's old fridge, you have to do it manually.

 

[onecoolair]

I have been attemptiing to reduce the condensation in my freezer.

I have replaced the seals with factory seals. I have used several other sealants with and without the factory seal.

I have tried adusting the lid to make a better seal. I have removed the hinge and weighted the lid. I have placed a blanket over the unit.

The only thing that has worked has been blue tape around the seam. Obviously this is not a workable solution.

My next attempt will be to put some sort of latch on top of the lids to help keep the lids firmly down on the unit.

Any other bright ideas??? Take your time, I'm headed North for a month. If there is anything left after hurricane season I'll look for some latches.

Hmmm?....So your freezer lids do not have any latches or lock downs on them....Back in 2002 on my 356 I was having this problem. Hunter sent a guy from the factory. He replace the lids with ones that have an adjustable lock down. He also added extra insulation and showed me the dollar trick and a few other tricks. Like adding extra refrigerator gasket material. So as to create a double or even a triple seal which I promptly did.

 

[Bob 04 H260]

We have two wireless battery operated thermometers in the refrigerator and another two in the freezer. We can monitor the temperature difference between the top and bottom of the unit. Batteries last for months.
We also have the adjustable latch on ours and it seems to keep the lids well sealed. I try to keep them full as much as possible, it keeps the warm moist air out.
Bob

http://www.amazon.com/ACU_RITE-Refrigerator-Freezer-Wireless-Thermometer/dp/B004QJVU78

 

[onecoolair]

We have two wireless battery operated thermometers in the refrigerator and another two in the freezer. We can monitor the temperature difference between the top and bottom of the unit. Batteries last for months.
We also have the adjustable latch on ours and it seems to keep the lids well sealed. I try to keep them full as much as possible, it keeps the warm moist air out.
Bob

http://www.amazon.com/ACU_RITE-Refrigerator-Freezer-Wireless-Thermometer/dp/B004QJVU78

I tried the digital wireless before but the sensors would freeze and batteries would explode at -10 to -15 degrees. Then I saw this commercial type gauge on a friends boat. So I had to have one. Why because it looks so cool. And better yet no batteries! If anyone wants one. Found on ebay at the restaurantparts store. Make sure you verify you want the surface or flush mount model, with the color face. The ad only showed the surface model. So I sent him an ebay message with my cell number. And he actually called me before he shipped to verify what I was looking for. Made the adjustment right then and there. Tell them I sent you. just for the record. I don't own the company and get no kick back.
Oh almost forgot to ask do you also have the adler barbour cold machine or something else just wondering?

 

[Bob 04 H260]

I tried the digital wireless before but the sensors would freeze and batteries would explode at -10 to -15 degrees. Then I saw this commercial type gauge on a friends boat. So I had to have one. Why because it looks so cool. And better yet no batteries! If anyone wants one. Found on ebay at the restaurantparts store. Make sure you verify you want the surface or flush mount model, with the color face. The ad only showed the surface model. So I sent him an ebay message with my cell number. And he actually called me before he shipped to verify what I was looking for. Made the adjustment right then and there. Tell them I sent you. just for the record. I don't own the company and get no kick back.
Oh almost forgot to ask do you also have the adler barbour cold machine or something else just wondering?

We only run the freezer at 18* so exploding batteries have not been an issue yet .

We do have the Addler Barbour cold machine. We replaced the thermostat in the fridge already. Also by using the thermometers we found out the spill-over fan only runs when the compressor is turned on by the freezer thermostat. I thought it had been improperly wired by the Hunter factory but the wire for the fridge thermostat goes to a pin on the AB control module. I have not changed it yet but intend to run it direct to 12 volts.

Bob

 

[John T1594]

Damp-Rid

This year, I put a small container of those humidity reducing crystals (Damp-Rid) inside of our top loading refrigerator/freezer. The frost still forms on the freezer unit but much less than in previous years. A cork in the drain tube is a must.

 

[onecoolair]

We only run the freezer at 18* so exploding batteries have not been an issue yet .

We do have the Addler Barbour cold machine. We replaced the thermostat in the fridge already. Also by using the thermometers we found out the spill-over fan only runs when the compressor is turned on by the freezer thermostat. I thought it had been improperly wired by the Hunter factory but the wire for the fridge thermostat goes to a pin on the AB control module. I have not changed it yet but intend to run it direct to 12 volts.

Bob

I have to keep my refrigerator control fan off. Otherwise anything above bottom shelf of fridge will freeze. If I need more freezer space for the blue bell then I just turn on the fridge fan.:dance:

 

[Blitz]

This year, I put a small container of those humidity reducing crystals (Damp-Rid) inside of our top loading refrigerator/freezer.

H2 Out also makes a small unit that will help with condensation and is renewable. With it, I have found I don't need to defrost as often. Just put it in a zip lock bag when you do need defrosting to protect it from excess moisture.

I have s older Cold Machine without the fan-got to get me one of those...