We are trying to extend our sailing season. It tends to get no lower than the twenty's down here. I am trying for figure some way to at least protect the engine sea water exchanger and lift muffler, engine is fresh water cooled. Second I would like to keep the cabin warm enough so that I do not have to winterize all the plumbing. Any ideas for a lower cost, lower power consumption way of doing this. I have heard of something called a Frost Buster. Apparently you can plug an engine heater of some kind into it. Anybody heard of this. Thanks Good Winds Dave
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Bill O'Donovan
Winterizing while running
You should carefully pour 2 gallons of inexpensive anti-freeze into the raw water intake at the end of the sailing day. When you go out next, you'll blow it out and will have to repeat at the end of the day. As for the plumbing, go ahead and put the antifreeze in the fresh water tank and drain the water heater enough to validate that the antifreeze got it. Use bottle water for consumption.
You should carefully pour 2 gallons of inexpensive anti-freeze into the raw water intake at the end of the sailing day. When you go out next, you'll blow it out and will have to repeat at the end of the day. As for the plumbing, go ahead and put the antifreeze in the fresh water tank and drain the water heater enough to validate that the antifreeze got it. Use bottle water for consumption.
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Andy Howard
Winterizing in the temperate zone
I know exactly how you feel, we only get three or four nights a year that are cold enough to do real harm and there can be alot of great sailing days in December through March. I have several dock buddies that just set up a few 100 watt light bulbs on a timer in the engine compartment,head and near the fresh water pump year after year with no problems. The only risk is a good ol' NC ice storm knocking out the power for a few hours when you need it the most. That's a gamble I'm not willing to make for my engine since I live several hours away. I set up a bypass between my engine through hull and strainer with a T-fitting, 2' of hose, and a valve. At the end of the day all I have to do is shut the sea cock, open the valve and stick the hose in a gallon of antifreeze and I'm done. I leave the rest of the boat to a small ceramic space heater or a couple of light bulbs which also do a great job on condensation.
I know exactly how you feel, we only get three or four nights a year that are cold enough to do real harm and there can be alot of great sailing days in December through March. I have several dock buddies that just set up a few 100 watt light bulbs on a timer in the engine compartment,head and near the fresh water pump year after year with no problems. The only risk is a good ol' NC ice storm knocking out the power for a few hours when you need it the most. That's a gamble I'm not willing to make for my engine since I live several hours away. I set up a bypass between my engine through hull and strainer with a T-fitting, 2' of hose, and a valve. At the end of the day all I have to do is shut the sea cock, open the valve and stick the hose in a gallon of antifreeze and I'm done. I leave the rest of the boat to a small ceramic space heater or a couple of light bulbs which also do a great job on condensation.
You be the judge.
There are several devices on the market that could keep your engine and water tanks from freezing as long as you do not have sustained cold temperatures. There is a heater on the market that can be set to come on at about 38 deg. for the entire interior of the boat. Also the Golden rods can be placed in compartments (engine, holding tank area, water tank area etc). These will keep the temp up if you are not getting too cold. The fans that we use for mold/mildew draw about 90 watts and provide heat and air circulation both. I would not depend on any of these methods unless you are sure that it is NOT going to get down below freezing for several hours.
There are several devices on the market that could keep your engine and water tanks from freezing as long as you do not have sustained cold temperatures. There is a heater on the market that can be set to come on at about 38 deg. for the entire interior of the boat. Also the Golden rods can be placed in compartments (engine, holding tank area, water tank area etc). These will keep the temp up if you are not getting too cold. The fans that we use for mold/mildew draw about 90 watts and provide heat and air circulation both. I would not depend on any of these methods unless you are sure that it is NOT going to get down below freezing for several hours.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
As long as the water doesn't freeze...
nothing below the waterline on your boat will freeze, 'cuz the hull and everything in it takes its temperature from the water. Nor are overnight temps well below freezing--even into the teens--a problem for anything above the waterline as long as the daytime temps stay at 40 F or above. It's when the temps drop below 30 and stay there for 48 hours or longer that plumbing, toilets, tanks etc become at risk. So if you're able to get to your boat in a hurry when a hard freeze of several days is predicted, you don't need to do anything until one is. If you're likely to be caught short, I'd recommend winterizing the plumbing around the first of December.
nothing below the waterline on your boat will freeze, 'cuz the hull and everything in it takes its temperature from the water. Nor are overnight temps well below freezing--even into the teens--a problem for anything above the waterline as long as the daytime temps stay at 40 F or above. It's when the temps drop below 30 and stay there for 48 hours or longer that plumbing, toilets, tanks etc become at risk. So if you're able to get to your boat in a hurry when a hard freeze of several days is predicted, you don't need to do anything until one is. If you're likely to be caught short, I'd recommend winterizing the plumbing around the first of December.
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Ray Bowles
Dave, There are several thermostaticly controlled
heavy duty extension cords or 110 volt outlet boxes available at better electrical stores that we use on the farm. These start and stop different items we need during cold times. With what Peggy and others said about the ability of the lake water temp to act as a buffer these might take care of the rest. If the power goes out then there will be some risk but how often does that happen? And does it happen for more than 24 to 36 hours. Temps must get into the low 20's or teens and stay for about 8 to 12 hours to cool the water storing items for them to even start freezing. And then it gets "slushy" for a good bit of time before it will freeze hard enough to break things. Ice storms usually happen at fairly warm temps, like 29 to 32 degrees. Ray
heavy duty extension cords or 110 volt outlet boxes available at better electrical stores that we use on the farm. These start and stop different items we need during cold times. With what Peggy and others said about the ability of the lake water temp to act as a buffer these might take care of the rest. If the power goes out then there will be some risk but how often does that happen? And does it happen for more than 24 to 36 hours. Temps must get into the low 20's or teens and stay for about 8 to 12 hours to cool the water storing items for them to even start freezing. And then it gets "slushy" for a good bit of time before it will freeze hard enough to break things. Ice storms usually happen at fairly warm temps, like 29 to 32 degrees. Ray
Be careful
Dave: According to what I have seen in the weather history temps can get very cold there Dec, Jan
Dave: According to what I have seen in the weather history temps can get very cold there Dec, Jan
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John J
Atlanta Winters
The last few winters I have winterized everything. In talking to my dock mates who have been on Lake Lanier for up to 20 years, they never winterize anything. I can't decide if they are that much smarter, or that much luckier. Peggy, you were here for a long time, whats your opinion.
The last few winters I have winterized everything. In talking to my dock mates who have been on Lake Lanier for up to 20 years, they never winterize anything. I can't decide if they are that much smarter, or that much luckier. Peggy, you were here for a long time, whats your opinion.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
I never winterized...
And never had a problem. However, the toilets on my boats used pressurized water, and my fresh water system was below the waterline, so no problem. However, toilets that use raw water are a different matter. At the very least, I'd disconnect the intake hose from the back of the bowl and blow the water out of the bowl...'cuz that CAN freeze. And boats kept on trailers are a totally matter...EVERYthing is out of the water, and therefore takes its temperature from the air, so everything needs to be winterized.
And never had a problem. However, the toilets on my boats used pressurized water, and my fresh water system was below the waterline, so no problem. However, toilets that use raw water are a different matter. At the very least, I'd disconnect the intake hose from the back of the bowl and blow the water out of the bowl...'cuz that CAN freeze. And boats kept on trailers are a totally matter...EVERYthing is out of the water, and therefore takes its temperature from the air, so everything needs to be winterized.
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Gary A.
Great Discussion
Dave, We keep our Hunter 34, Victoria, at Sailcraft. Where are you? I went the whole way last year and winterized everything. Just now, after using and re-filling our tanks all season, we're finally able to use the water from the fresh water tank without the smell of the anti-freeze. I'm with you, I'd like to avoid this as long as possible or skip most of it. I live about 2 1/2 hours away, so I'm a little hesitant to trust systems based on electricity. What to do?!?! Gary
Dave, We keep our Hunter 34, Victoria, at Sailcraft. Where are you? I went the whole way last year and winterized everything. Just now, after using and re-filling our tanks all season, we're finally able to use the water from the fresh water tank without the smell of the anti-freeze. I'm with you, I'd like to avoid this as long as possible or skip most of it. I live about 2 1/2 hours away, so I'm a little hesitant to trust systems based on electricity. What to do?!?! Gary
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Dave Mauney
Thanks to Everyone
I appreciate your input. Very helpful. For in water winter storage I think what I am going to do is put a basic $40 circulating heater on the sole with a thermo switch that comes on at 34 deg and off at 45 deg. Based on some conversations with others around here this works as long as you leave hatches to the engine compartment and to the freshwater, head and holding tank area and the air conditioner open for circulation. Peggy your data was very helpful on the 48 hours below 30 deg criteria. With the heater I am more comfortable. Power failure not a concern since I am fortunate enough to live 1 mi. away. Any more ideas comments from anyone on this plan would be appreciated. Gary, I am at Pecan Grove Marina, she is a O'Day 35 with Gray hull named DAMWEGAS. She will be in Sailcraft lot in dry storage Dec.-Mar. I will keep my eyes open for you. Good Winds, Dave
I appreciate your input. Very helpful. For in water winter storage I think what I am going to do is put a basic $40 circulating heater on the sole with a thermo switch that comes on at 34 deg and off at 45 deg. Based on some conversations with others around here this works as long as you leave hatches to the engine compartment and to the freshwater, head and holding tank area and the air conditioner open for circulation. Peggy your data was very helpful on the 48 hours below 30 deg criteria. With the heater I am more comfortable. Power failure not a concern since I am fortunate enough to live 1 mi. away. Any more ideas comments from anyone on this plan would be appreciated. Gary, I am at Pecan Grove Marina, she is a O'Day 35 with Gray hull named DAMWEGAS. She will be in Sailcraft lot in dry storage Dec.-Mar. I will keep my eyes open for you. Good Winds, Dave
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