I JUST BOUGHT A 1984 CATALINA 36. SHE'S IN EXCELLENT CONDITION INSIDE AND OUT. THE OILED TEAK DOWN BELOW IS BEAUTIFUL, BUT THE WOOD GRAIN FORMICA ON THE SALON AND CHART TABLES, ETC. LOOKs CHEAP AND DOes NOT COMPLIMENT THE SURROUNDING TEAK. IS THERE ANY EASY WAY TO CHANGE THE EXISTING WOODGRAINED FORMICA TO WHITE (LIKE THE NEWER CATALINA)? DO YOU KNOW OF ANY GOOD SPRAY PAINT THAT WILL STICK? HOW HARD IS IT TO REMOVE THE TEAK TRIM THAT'S AROUND THE TABLES AND LAMINATE NEW (WHITE) FORMICA OVER THE OLD? ANY IDEAS/ COMMENTS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. ALSO, THE BOAT CAME WITH A NEW MAST THAT IS SPLICED ABOUT 5 ' 6 " UP FROM WHERE IT BOLTS TO THE SOLE OF THE BOAT. WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT SPLICES? ROBERT
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Spliced is not uncommon.
Robert: I have seen these splices on several boats over the years. I think that there is a sleeve inside the extrusion and is drilled and riveted. It is probably stronger than a single extrusion. For your formica, you can either remove the existing pieces and make something out of wood or try applying formica over the existing formica. You can use some heavy sandpaper to rough up the existing surface and then apply the new formica over it. The old formica can also be removed with a belt sander. If you are not comfortable with this, just take it to a top shop. It is not very expensive.
Robert: I have seen these splices on several boats over the years. I think that there is a sleeve inside the extrusion and is drilled and riveted. It is probably stronger than a single extrusion. For your formica, you can either remove the existing pieces and make something out of wood or try applying formica over the existing formica. You can use some heavy sandpaper to rough up the existing surface and then apply the new formica over it. The old formica can also be removed with a belt sander. If you are not comfortable with this, just take it to a top shop. It is not very expensive.
You can buy formica veneer
It's very thin and made to be put down over existing countertops. If you're really good with a knife, you shouldn't have to remove the teak fiddle rails to install it. You should take the sink out, though, so the flange covers the edges. Home Depot sells it and can also teach you how to put it down...how to cut it, what glue and other materials to use, etc. My last boat had the same blonde wood grain formica, so I know why you want to cover it. I used a different solution to the dinette table, though. I'd replaced the "lovely" Harvest Gold wallcovering with a textured white...I also covered the dinette with it, then put a piece of clear lexan down. Figured it would be easier to replace the lexan if/when it got beat up than new formica. Plus, another owner could put anything he wanted to under it to decorate the table--charts, placemats, photos...whatever.
It's very thin and made to be put down over existing countertops. If you're really good with a knife, you shouldn't have to remove the teak fiddle rails to install it. You should take the sink out, though, so the flange covers the edges. Home Depot sells it and can also teach you how to put it down...how to cut it, what glue and other materials to use, etc. My last boat had the same blonde wood grain formica, so I know why you want to cover it. I used a different solution to the dinette table, though. I'd replaced the "lovely" Harvest Gold wallcovering with a textured white...I also covered the dinette with it, then put a piece of clear lexan down. Figured it would be easier to replace the lexan if/when it got beat up than new formica. Plus, another owner could put anything he wanted to under it to decorate the table--charts, placemats, photos...whatever.
Paint
Yes you can paint over the counter tops. I did. I used melamine paint that I got at Home Depot, It's intended for counter tops, and it's not very expensive. I primed and painted ($15), and two years later looks like new. One of the best changes i made on my c27. Much easier than putting on new veneer.
Yes you can paint over the counter tops. I did. I used melamine paint that I got at Home Depot, It's intended for counter tops, and it's not very expensive. I primed and painted ($15), and two years later looks like new. One of the best changes i made on my c27. Much easier than putting on new veneer.
If you are that tight...
Hello, Not to offend with the title...I know what you mean...a lot of boats and cars and blenders and everything suffered from the invention of LSD in the 70's... If you don't want to remove the fiddles...teak on tables...and they surround the table...what about fine white tiles...its easy...bonded to a backing mesh...adhesive...rub in some grout...piece of clear lexan over chart table... If I were you I would want the expanse of white formica too...don't paint it...stains...heat lifts...every scratch to the background colour will make you fume... If the bond is still good don't lift it... just contact cement new to old and rub with a roll bar or a heavy rolling pin...trouble will be fitting to fiddle edges...fiddles usually attached with counter sunk screws...plugged with a 'plug'...really a plug...hmmmm...then chiselled off...not as easy as drilling out a rivet to remove...only way to do it is with a center drill which you can buy from machine shop suppliers - for lathe work - or a coring bit which you can get from very high end woodworking shops...these are like little hole saws with a retracting centering bit...but then you need to buy a plug bit and all that mess...are you a sailor or a boatbuilder is what you need to affirm here... If you don't want to remove your fiddles the heavy mylar 'mac tack' like veneer is the way to go 'cause a poorly fitted second veneer of formica will look quite 'farmer' and be an obvious DIY job to subsequent buyers... I have included a photo of my computer desk here which I manufactured as I do my boat interiors, I mount the fiddle rails with screws from the bottom so they can be removed if owner changes their mind as you have done... and I can still run a finishing router around the edge...crap photo but I am drinking again as you will see...pin nailed teak...lay 'mica...router flush...then router a low angle chamfer...clean....modern...quick and cheap for me...I hate building things that cannot be taken apart...just a personal designer builder thing...powerboats... Crap photo...oh well...crack whisky though... Call up a local boat manufacturer and ask for a tour like you are wanting to buy...then get cozy with the cabinet fitter...every 'John' is looking for a weekend job...assuming you are rich of course... Cheers... SH
Hello, Not to offend with the title...I know what you mean...a lot of boats and cars and blenders and everything suffered from the invention of LSD in the 70's... If you don't want to remove the fiddles...teak on tables...and they surround the table...what about fine white tiles...its easy...bonded to a backing mesh...adhesive...rub in some grout...piece of clear lexan over chart table... If I were you I would want the expanse of white formica too...don't paint it...stains...heat lifts...every scratch to the background colour will make you fume... If the bond is still good don't lift it... just contact cement new to old and rub with a roll bar or a heavy rolling pin...trouble will be fitting to fiddle edges...fiddles usually attached with counter sunk screws...plugged with a 'plug'...really a plug...hmmmm...then chiselled off...not as easy as drilling out a rivet to remove...only way to do it is with a center drill which you can buy from machine shop suppliers - for lathe work - or a coring bit which you can get from very high end woodworking shops...these are like little hole saws with a retracting centering bit...but then you need to buy a plug bit and all that mess...are you a sailor or a boatbuilder is what you need to affirm here... If you don't want to remove your fiddles the heavy mylar 'mac tack' like veneer is the way to go 'cause a poorly fitted second veneer of formica will look quite 'farmer' and be an obvious DIY job to subsequent buyers... I have included a photo of my computer desk here which I manufactured as I do my boat interiors, I mount the fiddle rails with screws from the bottom so they can be removed if owner changes their mind as you have done... and I can still run a finishing router around the edge...crap photo but I am drinking again as you will see...pin nailed teak...lay 'mica...router flush...then router a low angle chamfer...clean....modern...quick and cheap for me...I hate building things that cannot be taken apart...just a personal designer builder thing...powerboats... Crap photo...oh well...crack whisky though... Call up a local boat manufacturer and ask for a tour like you are wanting to buy...then get cozy with the cabinet fitter...every 'John' is looking for a weekend job...assuming you are rich of course... Cheers... SH
The crap photo...
Hello, Ah, have a crap photo, from me, no take it, its free... Is it the whisky or is it Microsoft (Microshit)...that's the real question here... Cheers... SH.
Hello, Ah, have a crap photo, from me, no take it, its free... Is it the whisky or is it Microsoft (Microshit)...that's the real question here... Cheers... SH.
Attachments
I can't sleep...any suggestions...
Hello, Don't sweat the spar splice, it is very common... Some try to base it at a spreader joint, some just don't give a...a bunny rabbit... Thing is, if it is a proper splice, they most likely had to use a 'booting extrusion' from the spar manufacturer... Some weld, with same...which is how I would go...then dip or anodize...if they have a crack welder...some rivet, and the rest go bankrupt... Only the IACC boys can afford a 'full pull' extrusion, and these days nothing is aluminum on that level anyway... My call...whats next on the list...forget the spar splice 'cause it's cool...and damn good eyes...most 'folks' would not notice what you saw as a butt splicing of the spar... You get my 'civie ace' vote tonight... You have little problems to negotiate, you got a 'bean' on your neck... Cheers... Dwyer is about the biggest alloy spar boys in NA...the 'coffee tablers' will argue me here...they have their own freakin' foundry and extrusion presses or 'pushes'...sorry can I say 'Dwyer' here...and the owner is a Scott who 'takes the breeze' with pride... I need some Zanix or some NyQuil...can I say those brand names here...not a sales man...just a buggered out 'bub' who can't sleep...do I need therapy...do I really love her...she still turns me on...wait thats another site... YABOH... SH.
Hello, Don't sweat the spar splice, it is very common... Some try to base it at a spreader joint, some just don't give a...a bunny rabbit... Thing is, if it is a proper splice, they most likely had to use a 'booting extrusion' from the spar manufacturer... Some weld, with same...which is how I would go...then dip or anodize...if they have a crack welder...some rivet, and the rest go bankrupt... Only the IACC boys can afford a 'full pull' extrusion, and these days nothing is aluminum on that level anyway... My call...whats next on the list...forget the spar splice 'cause it's cool...and damn good eyes...most 'folks' would not notice what you saw as a butt splicing of the spar... You get my 'civie ace' vote tonight... You have little problems to negotiate, you got a 'bean' on your neck... Cheers... Dwyer is about the biggest alloy spar boys in NA...the 'coffee tablers' will argue me here...they have their own freakin' foundry and extrusion presses or 'pushes'...sorry can I say 'Dwyer' here...and the owner is a Scott who 'takes the breeze' with pride... I need some Zanix or some NyQuil...can I say those brand names here...not a sales man...just a buggered out 'bub' who can't sleep...do I need therapy...do I really love her...she still turns me on...wait thats another site... YABOH... SH.
Peggie....
Why would you need to cover over the edges of the veneer with the sink but not cover the edges at the teak?
Why would you need to cover over the edges of the veneer with the sink but not cover the edges at the teak?
Simple...
The reason the sink has a flange is to keep water around the sink from running down between the sink and the countertop. If you don't put the new layer under the flange, water damage can result. The teak rail doesn't have a flange...so why take it off just to put back against the edge of the countertop if you can cut the formica to fit tightly against it without taking it off?
The reason the sink has a flange is to keep water around the sink from running down between the sink and the countertop. If you don't put the new layer under the flange, water damage can result. The teak rail doesn't have a flange...so why take it off just to put back against the edge of the countertop if you can cut the formica to fit tightly against it without taking it off?
Simple?
So you allow water to get into the area where it is difficult to cover the edge and prevent water intrusion but then put efforts where it is simple to prevent it? It won't be so simple to replace it all later. It won't be a simple thing selling the boat in the future if it has had this type of simple fix. In every boat countertop I have seen the teak is on TOP of the laminate, not next to it. That edge should be sealed under the trim. You seem to always preach to others about doing things "right". This approach is simple but not right.
So you allow water to get into the area where it is difficult to cover the edge and prevent water intrusion but then put efforts where it is simple to prevent it? It won't be so simple to replace it all later. It won't be a simple thing selling the boat in the future if it has had this type of simple fix. In every boat countertop I have seen the teak is on TOP of the laminate, not next to it. That edge should be sealed under the trim. You seem to always preach to others about doing things "right". This approach is simple but not right.
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